New Member, Noob "Detailer", and Some Questions...

K

kestrel452

New member
Hi everyone, this is my first post here. :)

I`ve been reading threads here, on other forums, and watching YouTube demonstrations on how to property detail cars. Needless to say, it`s been eye opening, as I`ve done pretty much everything wrong since I was a child.

The only towels I`ve ever used on a car were old terry towels... The one saving grace to it all is I`m replacing my 14 year old vehicle that`s rusting at the door bottoms with a 2014 Buick Enclave that has under 25,000 miles in the short term. Now is my chance to start doing things correctly, lol. I know I will be having Xpel Ultimate applied to at least the front fenders, hood, A-pillars, and rear bumper. Whether I do the doors, who knows...

The glitz and glamor of spending all day detailing a car to keep it looking perfect was too much for me to resist Chemical Guys marketing. I`ve bought pretty much every microfiber towel I`ll ever need, though I`ve tried to refrain from ordering actual cleaning chemicals until I ascertain what`s at least "very good" to "excellent".



1. I did order Chemical Guys` leather cleaner, conditioner, and serum. I`ve read great things about the cleaner and serum. The jury *might* be out on the conditioner, has anyone used it? I`ve also read that the conditioner is useless on newer leather and you should just skip to the serum...is this true? What exactly is in the serum besides UV blockers?? I absolutely *hate* cracking, fading, and wrinkles in leather, I want to stay on top of protecting and conditioning the leather at least twice per year. The faded leather in my father`s `06 King Ranch is a saddening sight.

2. I also ordered some tire and trim care dressings. If it`s another thing I hate, it`s faded or cracked seals/stripping/trim. CG VRP for the tires, Silk Shine spray for the seals and trim, and Black on Black for the engine bay (is the BoB great for anything else?). I`m fine re-dressing the trim and seals every 1-2 months.

3. CG All Clean+ as a tire and engine bay cleaner? Yay or nay?

4. I need a quick speal on rim/wheel cleaners. I am contemplating ordering Diablo gel, however I`ve heard it falls in between what`s considered a strong wheel cleaner and regular car soap. I`d like to keep my wheels sealed with Rejex or CG Wheel Guard. I don`t know if Diablo or similar "medium strength" wheel cleaners would strip it right off every time. I wouldn`t really let my wheels go without cleaning for over 2-3 weeks. I`m lost as as to what products I should plan on ordering for the wheels.

5. Poorboy`s Black Hole glaze -> CG JetSeal -> Collinite 845 -> ??? (What are your thoughts on this trio? Is there any wax I can top the 845 with to give a wetter look that won`t come off in just two week`s time??)

6. Meg`s Gold Class wash for the outside, CG InnerClean (already ordered it) for the inside?


Thank you in advance to anyone that offers their guidance. I really want to order the right stuff the first time, and just have one or two "go-to`s" for each task. If any of the items I already ordered are far outclassed by a similarly prices substitute, guess I`ll just order the better stuff and return or gift the existing product... :cool:
 
Welcome aboard! If you really want to maintain that leather, I`d hit it with a cleaner and conditioner more frequently than twice a year. There are a lot of myth`s regarding leather or vinyl, but all interior of leather I`ve ever seen is still porous. If it`s porous, then it can be conditioned.
 
..."The glitz and glamor of spending all day detailing a car to keep it looking perfect was too much for me to resist Chemical Guys marketing..."
they sure do have some good words placed on their website. I`ll give them that

1. I prefer to use a product that does all three in one, partially because I`m lazy...but I will rationalize it as efficient
2. never used any of those products, so no idea there
3. i`m sure if diluted properly it would be sufficient
4. look into something with iron removers in it (sonax, ferrex, etc etc)... also with the frequency you describe you might consider Poorboy`s Spray and Rinse wheel cleaner
5. not sure about the topper aspect (you could do a spray wax as a drying aid after a wash)

don`t forget the grit guard(s) and/or wash board

and welcome!
 
kestrel452 said:
Hi everyone, this is my first post here. :)

I`ve been reading threads here, on other forums, and watching YouTube demonstrations on how to property detail cars. Needless to say, it`s been eye opening, as I`ve done pretty much everything wrong since I was a child.

The only towels I`ve ever used on a car were old terry towels... The one saving grace to it all is I`m replacing my 14 year old vehicle that`s rusting at the door bottoms with a 2014 Buick Enclave that has under 25,000 miles in the short term. Now is my chance to start doing things correctly, lol. I know I will be having Xpel Ultimate applied to at least the front fenders, hood, A-pillars, and rear bumper. Whether I do the doors, who knows...

The glitz and glamor of spending all day detailing a car to keep it looking perfect was too much for me to resist Chemical Guys marketing. I`ve bought pretty much every microfiber towel I`ll ever need, though I`ve tried to refrain from ordering actual cleaning chemicals until I ascertain what`s at least "very good" to "excellent".



1. I did order Chemical Guys` leather cleaner, conditioner, and serum. I`ve read great things about the cleaner and serum. The jury *might* be out on the conditioner, has anyone used it? I`ve also read that the conditioner is useless on newer leather and you should just skip to the serum...is this true? What exactly is in the serum besides UV blockers?? I absolutely *hate* cracking, fading, and wrinkles in leather, I want to stay on top of protecting and conditioning the leather at least twice per year. The faded leather in my father`s `06 King Ranch is a saddening sight.

2. I also ordered some tire and trim care dressings. If it`s another thing I hate, it`s faded or cracked seals/stripping/trim. CG VRP for the tires, Silk Shine spray for the seals and trim, and Black on Black for the engine bay (is the BoB great for anything else?). I`m fine re-dressing the trim and seals every 1-2 months.

3. CG All Clean+ as a tire and engine bay cleaner? Yay or nay?

4. I need a quick speal on rim/wheel cleaners. I am contemplating ordering Diablo gel, however I`ve heard it falls in between what`s considered a strong wheel cleaner and regular car soap. I`d like to keep my wheels sealed with Rejex or CG Wheel Guard. I don`t know if Diablo or similar "medium strength" wheel cleaners would strip it right off every time. I wouldn`t really let my wheels go without cleaning for over 2-3 weeks. I`m lost as as to what products I should plan on ordering for the wheels.

5. Poorboy`s Black Hole glaze -> CG JetSeal -> Collinite 845 -> ??? (What are your thoughts on this trio? Is there any wax I can top the 845 with to give a wetter look that won`t come off in just two week`s time??)

6. Meg`s Gold Class wash for the outside, CG InnerClean (already ordered it) for the inside?


Thank you in advance to anyone that offers their guidance. I really want to order the right stuff the first time, and just have one or two "go-to`s" for each task. If any of the items I already ordered are far outclassed by a similarly prices substitute, guess I`ll just order the better stuff and return or gift the existing product... :cool:
Click to expand...
Welcome!!

1. I either use NONSENSE at about 15:1 to clean leather and hit it with a conditioner(Sonax)after, or I use Mother`s all-in-one leather cleaner and conditioner. This is a really great option for a one-step leather job. Actually has pretty surprising cleaning ability too

2. I use VRP on tires and really like it! Can`t comment on the others as I`ve never used them. I use Solution Finish and Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant for my trim needs.

3. Yes, I love AllClean+! I use it at around 8~10:1 for heavy-duty cleaning.

4. Honestly I very rarely use an actual wheel cleaner on my wheels since they are coated, but when I do I use iron-x, at least for now I do.

5. I`ve heard great things about black hole(and quite want to try it)and Collinite 845(also really want to try this), and would skip the JetSeal step. Use that $40 on high quality microfibers(so important! I wish I would`ve started with high quality MF when I started detailing....), and other equipment(grit guards, etc...). If you want to add a `beauty wax` I highly recommend any of the Poorboy`s Natty`s paste waxes. I`ve personally used blue and red and love them both. Very easy to use, look great, can be used in the sun if need be, and are relatively cheap at $20-25.

6. Gold class is a great OTC soap! I`ve never used Innerclean, but I`m sure it will be just fine.

Hope that helps!
 
ViperGuy21 said:
Welcome!!

1. I either use NONSENSE at about 15:1 to clean leather and hit it with a conditioner(Sonax)after, or I use Mother`s all-in-one leather cleaner and conditioner. This is a really great option for a one-step leather job. Actually has pretty surprising cleaning ability too
2. I use VRP on tires and really like it! Can`t comment on the others as I`ve never used them. I use Solution Finish and Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant for my trim needs.
3. Yes, I love AllClean+! I use it at around 8~10:1 for heavy-duty cleaning.
4. Honestly I very rarely use an actual wheel cleaner on my wheels since they are coated, but when I do I use iron-x, at least for now I do.
5. I`ve heard great things about black hole(and quite want to try it)and Collinite 845(also really want to try this), and would skip the JetSeal step. Use that $40 on high quality microfibers(so important! I wish I would`ve started with high quality MF when I started detailing....), and other equipment(grit guards, etc...). If you want to add a `beauty wax` I highly recommend any of the Poorboy`s Natty`s paste waxes. I`ve personally used blue and red and love them both. Very easy to use, look great, can be used in the sun if need be, and are relatively cheap at $20-25.
6. Gold class is a great OTC soap! I`ve never used Innerclean, but I`m sure it will be just fine.

Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

I`ve already purchased a bunch of CG`s "Fluffer" and "Gray Matter" waffle MF towels for the paint. For everything else, I got different colors of their Workhorse MF towels. I also bought a grit guard that includes the washboard.

The Wolfgang trim sealant does look interesting. Do you think it would it be a better product than the Silk Shine spray?

This isn`t the first time I`ve heard of "iron removers" for cleaning wheels. What exactly is the benefit of something like that over a "wheel cleaner" like Diablo?

Thanks man! :D
 
Welcome! Wolfgang Trim Sealant lasts much, much longer than the CGs trim stuff. I`ve never used Diablo, but it has a bad reputation over on the AG side. Using Iron-X (or similar) removes the iron contaminates that come from the brake pads, but Iron-X does not remove dirt. There are many color changing rim cleaners on the market and they pretty much all work the same. CG makes good soaps and some of their waxes are good (50/50, Petes 53), but some of their other items are not top of the line. Everyone here has their favorites and are very willing to share their opinions. Again, welcome to the obsession.
 
I`ll chime in - Diablo Gel is ok, not good at removing iron particles/brake dust on non-coated wheels. If you get the wheels coated, regular car soap will do 98% of the time. If you are looking for some good deals on MF towels, take a look at The Rag Company. They will run specials every so often and provide good cost/performance ratio. Happy with orders from them so far and have only tried about 5 different types of towels.

-grungy
 
kestrel452- Welcome to Autopia!

A few sorta-random thoughts related to your Qs follow:

-When it comes to Interior Leather I find some degree of wrinkling/etc. inevitable. Different vehicles can have different types of leather and IIRC that King Ranch is one of the oddballs

-I find Meguiar`s GC shampoo to be OK at best (and that`s more charitable that I usually am about it). Mediocre lubricity and encapsulation IME but it`s commonly available and reasonably cheap

-Unless my wheels are "bare" I never need/use Wheel Cleaners. Whether coated or just protected with a wax/sealant, I use a sorta-strong shampoo mix (same stuff I use for wheelwells and the undercarriage) and that works fine for me despite letting wheels get utterly black between washes (just rewax/reseal if the beading drops off)

- I *NEVER* use exterior trim dressings (OK, single exception- one thing on my old Tahoe), but rather use Ultima`s Tire & Trim Guard + I don`t even use dressing under the hood

-Other than the initial cleanup, I wouldn`t expect to need an "engine compartment cleaner". I keep mine virtually spotless (maybe "literally spotless" in a few cases :D ) without anything like that. IME the trick is to never let things get too bad (ditto for the undercarriage)

-I dunno about using Black Hole and JetSeal (never used either) *and* Collinite 845. I`d just pick one LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., wax or sealant) and use that, maybe over top of the Black Hole. And speaking as somebody with decades of experience with 845, IMO it`s simply overrated and I hardly *ever* use mine any more. It does have a rather "bright, reflective" look compared to some other products and it`s very user-friendly, and it *can* generally be used on exterior trim if you do it right, so I guess there are good reasons why (other) people still like it, but I`ve moved on

-IMO the overall condition of your paint (especially with regard to marring, which is often/usually wash-induced) will matter a lot more than which wax and also IMO most people simply put too much emphasis on their (looks-related) choice of wax

-I find it extremely difficult, but possible, to avoid marring the paint during the wash. It`s far more challenging than most people would ever expect but IMO it`s what makes all the difference. I`d make that the primary focus- wash the vehicle without marring the paint
 
Accumulator said:
kestrel452- Welcome to Autopia!

A few sorta-random thoughts related to your Qs follow:

-When it comes to Interior Leather I find some degree of wrinkling/etc. inevitable. Different vehicles can have different types of leather and IIRC that King Ranch is one of the oddballs

-I find Meguiar`s GC shampoo to be OK at best (and that`s more charitable that I usually am about it). Mediocre lubricity and encapsulation IME but it`s commonly available and reasonably cheap (Point taken. Can you recommend any better shampoos that aren`t horrendously expensive?)

-Unless my wheels are "bare" I never need/use Wheel Cleaners. Whether coated or just protected with a wax/sealant, I use a sorta-strong shampoo mix (same stuff I use for wheelwells and the undercarriage) and that works fine for me despite letting wheels get utterly black between washes (just rewax/reseal if the beading drops off) (What do you recommend for sealing wheels? Rejex? JetSeal?)

- I *NEVER* use exterior trim dressings (OK, single exception- one thing on my old Tahoe), but rather use Ultima`s Tire & Trim Guard + I don`t even use dressing under the hood

-Other than the initial cleanup, I wouldn`t expect to need an "engine compartment cleaner". I keep mine virtually spotless (maybe "literally spotless" in a few cases :D ) without anything like that. IME the trick is to never let things get too bad (ditto for the undercarriage) (How do you recommend someone wash their undercarriage without a wash? I don`t really like going to automatic car washes and letting the spinning bristles jack up my paint)

-I dunno about using Black Hole and JetSeal (never used either) *and* Collinite 845. I`d just pick one LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., wax or sealant) and use that, maybe over top of the Black Hole. And speaking as somebody with decades of experience with 845, IMO it`s simply overrated and I hardly *ever* use mine any more. It does have a rather "bright, reflective" look compared to some other products and it`s very user-friendly, and it *can* generally be used on exterior trim if you do it right, so I guess there are good reasons why (other) people still like it, but I`ve moved on (Do you mind sharing what LSP wax you`ve moved on to? What`s your preferred product that`s easy to use and will handle winter road salt?)

-IMO the overall condition of your paint (especially with regard to marring, which is often/usually wash-induced) will matter a lot more than which wax and also IMO most people simply put too much emphasis on their (looks-related) choice of wax (Understood. Hopefully I can get the whole car wrapped in Xpel. Otherwise, I already have a microfiber wash mitt and towels which I hope will avoid inducing swirls).

-I find it extremely difficult, but possible, to avoid marring the paint during the wash. It`s far more challenging than most people would ever expect but IMO it`s what makes all the difference. I`d make that the primary focus- wash the vehicle without marring the paint
Click to expand...

Thank you Accumulator, I have some questions in red above if you don`t mind. :)
 
kestrel452 said:
... I have some questions in red above if you don`t mind. :)
Click to expand...

in my opinion-

first one- Poorboys Super Slick and Suds
second- hydro2lite or gyeon wet coat--- unless ridiculously easy is not your thing
third- undercarriage- possibly an apc and a brush? I dunno... I don`t really care about my fender wells and my undercarriage, well, its there in the same boat I guess
LSP- accumulator likes FK1000p, and I`ve used it too, its awesome stuff-- that`s probably what accumulator would recommend but I wont answer in his place
washing- do you also have a grit guard and/or washboard for the grit guard? you`re gonna need those- if you think X mitts and X towels are ok- go ahead and add MORE, better safe than swirly :)
 
512detail said:
in my opinion-

first one- Poorboys Super Slick and Suds
second- hydro2lite or gyeon wet coat--- unless ridiculously easy is not your thing
third- undercarriage- possibly an apc and a brush? I dunno... I don`t really care about my fender wells and my undercarriage, well, its there in the same boat I guess
LSP- accumulator likes FK1000p, and I`ve used it too, its awesome stuff-- that`s probably what accumulator would recommend but I wont answer in his place
washing- do you also have a grit guard and/or washboard for the grit guard? you`re gonna need those- if you think X mitts and X towels are ok- go ahead and add MORE, better safe than swirly :)
Click to expand...


It sounds like if you use CarPro`s Hydro2, you shouldn`t be using any other waxes, sealants or even a glaze?? It certainly looks hydrophobic enough, but is it a "hardy" type of coating that will protect against road salts and whatnot? Is it ideal for plastic and rubber trim, and metal as well as paint? One other thing I`d wonder about with that stuff is if it`d stop trim or tire dressing from adhering or penetrating.

I do indeed have a grit guard with accompanying washboard. I must have bought $100-150 worth of microfiber towels already, hopefully i don`t need many more :cool:
 
kestrel452 said:
It sounds like if you use CarPro`s Hydro2, you shouldn`t be using any other waxes, sealants or even a glaze?? It certainly looks hydrophobic enough, but is it a "hardy" type of coating that will protect against road salts and whatnot? Is it ideal for plastic and rubber trim, and metal as well as paint? One other thing I`d wonder about with that stuff is if it`d stop trim or tire dressing from adhering or penetrating.

I do indeed have a grit guard with accompanying washboard. I must have bought $100-150 worth of microfiber towels already, hopefully i don`t need many more :cool:
Click to expand...

hydro2lite will cover all your vehicle`s surface short of the tires

you CAN wax on top of it In My Experience... i`ll wax on top of Anything- lol-- but you don`t really need to

I`d imagine it`d be good for road salts silicon dioxide is one of the hardest substances known to man

would it affect trim dressings? possibly... so maybe put them on first then top with the hydro (not directly but it`ll get on there either way)
 
I think for simplicity`s sake, I`m going to start with a liquid wax (most likely Collinite 845) and seal the trim separately with Wolfgang Trim Sealant.

One thing I`ve wondered...will using vehicle shampoos that contain wax impede the adhesion (and thus durability) of subsequent 845 applications? 3D`s Pink Car Soap seems to be a crowd favorite here after doing some digging...but depending on the answer to this I might try 3D`s "Wash N Wax" since it`s the exact same product except with some wax added in (according to 3D).
 
BIG :welcome:

My suggestions would be :

Use a shampoo without wax/sealant if you`re going to polish/wax
use a shampoo with wax/sealant followed by a drying aid, spray detailer, or waterless wash for maintenance in between waxing
Look into getting a foamgun of some kind.
You mentioned 3D, good prices, good products, right now I use the waterless wash diluted in a sprayer for quick wipedowns.

Good Luck, Lurk&learn
 
Based on the suggestions of many folk, I`ll pick up a sheepskin wash mitt. Which wash mitt do you guys recommend, budget not withstanding? I`ll gladly pay more for a better mitt that`s easier on the paint and simpler to use. The microfiber mitt I already have is sold by "BlueCare Automotive" on Amazon, I`ve no idea if they`re reputable...
 
kestrel452- Ah, the topic of Maintenance Washes! I can go on and on....this is my primary Detailing Focus. It`s all about not marring the paint IMO.

Somebody else here can probably point you towards the "best" mitt (scare-quotes intentional) ; I`ve never had any issues with *any* (genuine) sheepskin mitts and can`t really give a specific recommendation. I have three different styles/types/brands of sheepskin mitts and I choose between them based on the given wash situation.

BUT- IMO *all* materials that touch your paint should pass the CD-Test, where wash/dry media are rubbed against the data side of a CD. If they mar the surface of the CD they don`t touch my paint. (No, it`s not a truly accurate test, but close enough for me and I`m pretty particular.)

"Test them the way you use them." I.e., wash media should be tested *wet*. I soak mine in a shampoo mix, but plain water would probably make for a more rigorous test. Rub the medium being tested against the CD with the same degree of pressure you`d really use when washing (i.e., don`t be unnaturally gentle in an attempt to earn a passing grade, within reason IMO you whould be able to press somewhat firmly and it shouldn`t matter; it`s simply softer/harder than the CD surface/paint and you want to find out which).

SO IMO it`s not really a matter of the mitt being "safe for the paint" since anything that touches paint oughta be. Rather, it`s a question of what you prefer (thick/thin, light/heavy, long-nap/short, etc. etc.) and there can be some significant differences.

One thing I`ll caution you about is "dirt retention", being tough to rinse (at least certain types of) dirt out of the mitt so you don`t reintroduce it to the process after you *think* you`ve rinsed it away. Some mitts are better/worse than others, and BTW this is my primary issue with some MF wash mitts.

Don`t use something that`s *too gentle*. Sheepskin mitts get things clean for me with minimal pressure. Extremely soft MF mitts can require more pressure to remove tenacious dirt and that can lead to marring. To repeat- the mitt oughta be safe anyhow, the marring will come from pressing dirt against the paint and then moving that dirt (across the paint) under pressure.

One more- the "noodle"/"Muppet"/dreadlock-type mitts. Seems people either love `em or *HATE* them (I`m in the latter category with a passion).

FWIW, I *NEVER* wear the mitts like a glove for a few reasons, the primary one probably being that worn that way it`s just too easy to apply too much pressure and rub dirt into/against the paint (the cause of marring).

While *I* always/only use them in conjunction with a foamgun, if I *had* to wash without the foamgun I`d be especially diligent about using the mitts this way (which I do even with the foamgun) : Fold cuff into mitt so it can`t touch paint; fill mitt with shampoo mix by dunking in wash bucket; hold mitt shut at cuff; gently whisk mitt across paint while shampoo mix seeps out (providing lubrication and flushing); rinse/repeat when mitt no longer contains shampoo mix.

Andif you think *this* post is lengthy, you should see my posts about washing when I`m really on a roll :o
 
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