New M105 is kicking but w/ KB method

Bigpoppa3346 said:
This may have been mentioned, but does this method only work with the new 105 or can it be used with the older stuff?
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Will work with either, but IME I find the new 105 to wipe off easier.
 
Thanks Kevin, Bryan, Todd, and WeekendWarrior for the insight. I look forward to the final product from Kevin as it will help educate the Autopian following...
 
Polished&Waxed said:
can you use white sonus pads in place of the orange LC pads? y or y not?



(?cell structure?)
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Never tried that pad.



sirhubbs said:
What Meguiar foam pad would be recommended for this?
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I have not tried any of the Megs pads yet. Kevin might be able to answer this. I like the flat orange pads best. You want maximum pad contact with the surface.



shine said:
For those that have to used this method--do you prefer using the PC/UDM/G110 or forced rotation Flex?
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I have used both the PC and flex with this method. IMO you only need the flex on the hardest clears, but I still need to do more testing on a hard clear car with the PC.



IMO its harder to hold the flex while trying to apply the pressure required. So I sold my flex and bought a new PC so that I have a spare as my PC is 4 yrs old.



If you have a PC, try it with that before buying a flex. This is all IMO and your results may vary.
 
Polished&Waxed said:
can you use white sonus pads in place of the orange LC pads? y or y not?



(?cell structure?)
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Don't know as well, but I hand the KBM to work extremely well with all pads, just with varying results to the finish and the speed of the cut. Example, on a Lake Country Yellow Pad you will achieve cut faster but have more micromarring (as the pad itself is fairly abrasive and not uniform). The open structure of the cells seem to keep the pad slightly cleaner longer.



I like several pads that I will list in the answer below along with my experience.



sirhubbs said:
What Meguiar foam pad would be recommended for this?
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I think Kevin mostly uses the yellow polishing pad?



Here are some of my favorite pads and the differences I have noticed.



Meguiars' Burgandy Cutting Pad (The new, closed cell, version).

Works amazingly well at removing deeper marring quickly. This pad also lasts longer and keeps its original rebound longer (extremely durable considering the abuse the KBM requires). Will leave increased microhazing on the paint compared to a Lake Country Orange pad but not so much that additonal steps are needed. (2nd most used)



Lake Country Orange- I would recommend a lower profile pad that is close in diameter to the backing plate tbecause these pads will go soft quickly. However they provide enough cutting power to get the job done with very light microhazing.



Prototype Foam from Lake Country- I have been testing a prototype foam for Lake Country that is completely closed cell and works AMAZING for both cutting and finishing with this method. It leaves the fainest marring with M105 (sometimes finishing perfectly). I usually switch to M205 and buzz over the area to clean up an residual microhazing and get a perfect finish. Slightly less cut then the Lake Country orange (but again the constant cutting action means that slightly more pressure or time working will equal this out) but finishes near LSP ready!



Lake Country White- Same as the prototype foam but even less cut



Lake Country Gray, Meguiars Black finishing- A lot less cut from the softer structure, but will finish LSP ready on most paints with high gloss with M105. I like using M205 on a stiffer pad.



shine said:
For those that have to used this method--do you prefer using the PC/UDM/G110 or forced rotation Flex?
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This is wierd but I like smaller pads on a Porter Cable for cutting, heavy polishing with M105 and like the Flex for finishing with M205. Pressure is more important that rotational speed (infact rotation isn't necessary, I think Kevin said that optimally the pad would rotate about 3-5 times a minute just to keep the surface uniform). The Flex can be a bear to control at extremely high pressure as well because of its backwards rotation.



I like using beleveled 4 inch pads for the most part because I just about anywhere I need to and focus more pressure on specific areas for scratch removal.
 
Thanks Todd and Brian. I was considering buying a Flex or G110 as a backup to my original UDM since the UDM is prone to failure--one had died on me so far. I can imagine the Flex giving quite a workout if a lot of pressure is added.
 
TH0001 said:
..This is wierd but I like smaller pads on a Porter Cable for cutting, heavy polishing with M105 and like the Flex for finishing with M205. Pressure is more important that rotational speed...
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Heh heh, doesn't seem weird to me; I never find the PC all that happy with applied pressure unless I'm using the 4" pads.



Oh, and add me to the list of people who are really impressed that *you're* preferring this to your rotaries. Guys like me, well, yeah...I'm no rotary-Meister. But for *you* to prefer it, well, that's something :eek:



The one thing that has me a bit concerned here is the idea of applying a lot of pressure with a Flex 3401. I don't mind giving my tools a real workout, but I can see it precipitating problems with the Flex :think:



Gotta try this with the Cyclo some time...
 
Accumulator said:
The one thing that has me a bit concerned here is the idea of applying a lot of pressure with a Flex 3401. I don't mind giving my tools a real workout, but I can see it precipitating problems with the Flex :think:



Gotta try this with the Cyclo some time...
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I'm thinking the same thing..........



So.........Menzerna products for my Flex and M105 for my PC......



Hmmm......



Maybe the Cyclo comes back as the king again.......:D



The more you learn the more you realize, "Ya never know"........
 
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