New guy with his first post..now judge me

D

danz24

New member
Hi, I always thought I was serious into detailing...until I saw this site.

Anyway I like to always have my car clean and to "stand out". Anyway here are my materials/steps:



1. Wash car using Meguairs Gold Class

2. Wash tires with soap/water and tire spray

3. Dry Car using mr. clean autodry then towel

3. Wipe tires with Meguiars endurance gloss

4. Polish/clean car with Meguiar ColourX

5. Buff out

6. Wax car with Meguiar NXT (orginal not 2.0)



Ya I know I stuck with a brand, when I started off I thought Meguairs was the best. BTW the polish step and wax step was all done by hand.



In terms of my detailing I have 2 major issues. One is that everytime I dry there are ALWAYS some sort of water markings. The other is that I dont really see much of a difference between the application of the cleaner/polish and the application of the wax. It seems to be the same.

I have to say though the final result is great but I dont know if it is because it truly is great, or that I have never seen anything better since I dont usually go to car shows and I dont know any other "autopian" ppl.



Basically lemme know your comments on my procedure, how I can improve and how to adress the major issues. If anything I was thinking of upgrading to better wax and polish or even the UDM if its worth it. It was also suggested from eshine.ca that I use the "dehydrator towel" so I might consider that.



If there are any products you would suggest please make sure its for sale on eshine.ca because I live in Canada and will most likely buy from there.
 
Do you do that every time you wash it? I thought autodry was a car wash that contained a wax-like substance that sticks to the paint, and makes the water sheer off. I stopped using it because it made my car look dull, and ruined my soft car washing mit. The mit got sticky and black because the auto dry stuff would adhere itself to the mit and not rinse off.



What about a clay bar? Before doing a full wax/polish I usually run a clay bar / water over the car to feel it out and see if it's got overspray or soot stuck to it. It'll feel rough when going over overspray, then it gets smooth as glass. Then I wash/polish/wax.



Also, how about quick detail spray. If the car's already waxed, then each time you wash afterwards you should dry as usual with a very soft towel or absorber, and go one more step by doing another wipe down of the car with detail spray and a microfiber towel. This usually removes residual water spots from washing the car, plus makes it more glossy, and adds some more protection. Meguiars Detail spray works great.
 
Get a supreme guzzler waffle weave towel from autogeek for drying. Even when saturated it doesn't leave water traces like the other drying towels I have used. I'm sure there are other good ones that others will suggest. As for polishing......polishes must be broken down to realize their intended benefits. Applying by hand is not effective at breaking polishes down completely (or even partially). You can stick to applying waxes and sealants by hand, but you should consider a random orbit/rotary machine to apply your polishes. I also noticed that you're not using clay in your routine.....definitely incorporate that. Search the forum to learn how to use the clay to decontaminate the paint. If you hang around here long enough, you'll learn that the stuff you buy at Walmart USUALLY (not claiming 100% of the time) isn't satisfactory for autopian standards. Good luck and use the search function a lot.
 
Hey Danz!



I'm a Meguiar's guy to, so don't feel bad. I have a couple of thoughts...



Definitely get a "waffle" type drying towel (like what cushdrive said). They are amazing. I'm a natural chamois convert!



I'm not familiar with the Mr. Clean product so I can't comments. My main suggestion and item that I think can make a big difference in the way your car feels and how your LSP adheres to the paint is to clay your car.



I use a clay magic clay bar for this step in conjunctin with Meguairs Quick Detailer as my lubricant. After claying, I use a paint cleaner (DC paint cleaner is fine) for below surface contaminants.



After this step I use Meguiar's Show Car Glaze #7 and I think it makes a big difference in the final product. My opinion of this is based upon my wife... lol



Here is what I mean. I was detailing her car and decided to do some panels with #7 and some without and then ask her opinion about the shine. Since she was "blind" to the work I did and frankly doesn't give a hoot about detailing, she came out and quickly pointed out every panel which had the #7 and those that didn't (on a silver car no less).



I could see the difference as well but figured maybe my eye wasn't exactly "objective" since I had done the work. So, I'd say you might want to give #7 a try.



I end with two coats of NXT 2.0. I apply them 12 hours apart to give the first coat time to cure.



I've been pretty satisfied with my results.
 
:showpics
danz24 said:
Hi, I always thought I was serious into detailing...until I saw this site.

Anyway I like to always have my car clean and to "stand out". Anyway here are my materials/steps:



1. Wash car using Meguairs Gold Class

2. Wash tires with soap/water and tire spray

3. Dry Car using mr. clean autodry then towel

3. Wipe tires with Meguiars endurance gloss

4. Polish/clean car with Meguiar ColourX

5. Buff out

6. Wax car with Meguiar NXT (orginal not 2.0)



Ya I know I stuck with a brand, when I started off I thought Meguairs was the best. BTW the polish step and wax step was all done by hand.



In terms of my detailing I have 2 major issues. One is that everytime I dry there are ALWAYS some sort of water markings. The other is that I dont really see much of a difference between the application of the cleaner/polish and the application of the wax. It seems to be the same.

I have to say though the final result is great but I dont know if it is because it truly is great, or that I have never seen anything better since I dont usually go to car shows and I dont know any other "autopian" ppl.



Basically lemme know your comments on my procedure, how I can improve and how to adress the major issues. If anything I was thinking of upgrading to better wax and polish or even the UDM if its worth it. It was also suggested from eshine.ca that I use the "dehydrator towel" so I might consider that.



If there are any products you would suggest please make sure its for sale on eshine.ca because I live in Canada and will most likely buy from there.
Click to expand...
:showpics
 
Pics is actually a good idea.



Also I think i'll try using the clay thinking of the riccardo one, it might actually make a difference. BTW I just got the Meguiars ultimate quick detail spray, can I use that to lubricate the clay?





I forgot to mention it in my post but I have a top of chips on my car. I know I can eliminate the swirls but will a UDM have any chance of removing those white dots?









Heres a pic of my hood in sunlight. I like how it looks like a mirror, but then again the chip ruin it.





Another pic showing the cool mirror-like reflections





One last pic. The car is a 98 cavalier btw.



I will be buying from eshine so if you have any suggestions I would like products that I can buy from there.:ca
 
Yes, you mentioned you used a towel to Dry. MF towels are the only towels to touch your paint IMO. I consider my MF towels to be as just as an important tool as anything else I have.



And remember, They're not "rags", they're towels. I love saying that when someone refers to my towels as rags.
 
Besides an extensive touch up exercise or a repaint, I don't think there is much you can do about the chips.



From Chris @ eshine. If I had to do it all over again...



By Hand



Wash 2 bucket method: 2 grit guards, Poorboys SS&S wash (my favourite for now), some of his sheepskin mitts (they are Eurows, been happy with them).



Wheels/Tires: You can use normal car wash soap for the wheels, but for both wheel and tire, Amazing Roll Off has my eye. I have never used it personally.



Dry: 2-3 of his big waffle weave micro fiber drying towels, 2-3 of the same towel but mini size. I never drag my towels anymore, well, rarely. I try to blot dry the whole darn thing.



Clay: Riccardo is nice clay, and you can use the Riccardo lubricant as well. However, I would say get ONR and mix it to clay or QD specifications. ONR is a good all around product and later you can try it as a wash as well (I don't recommend it for now if you are new to this though).



Polish/Glaze: Multi-step = Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze. Minor filling, but it gives a nice wet look. + wax of your choice. Review/search some to find which ones suit your needs best.



One Step = Optimum Poli Seal. Have heard good things about, says it can be used by hand as well, although I haven't used this one personally either. Maybe someone can chime in about using it by hand.



Quick Detailer: Read up and do some reviews/searches about this as well.



Of course, you would need normal microfiber ( I use his standard ones for polish residue removal/QDing and his tornados for buffing wax and some QDing as well ), pads, etc.



Chris is a great guy to deal with.



By machine (abrasive polishing, would produce the best results) is another story, and another post, time for bed for me.
 
HI thanks for the help guys appreciate it.



Wanted to ask a few more things.



1. How can I remove the white dots on my hood. It shows especially when against the sun. (see pics)



2. I dont see a difference when I apply the wax. Could it be because im not using a clay bar, it have I reached a "shine limit" with the colourX?



3. Can I use Meguiars Ultimate quick detailer to lubricate clay?
 
danz24 said:
HI thanks for the help guys appreciate it.



Wanted to ask a few more things.



1. How can I remove the white dots on my hood. It shows especially when against the sun. (see pics)



2. I dont see a difference when I apply the wax. Could it be because im not using a clay bar, it have I reached a "shine limit" with the colourX?



3. Can I use Meguiars Ultimate quick detailer to lubricate clay?
Click to expand...



1. Can you get closer pictures? I would think that they are paint chips down to the primer, especially if the car is a '98.



2. You could put 10 dollar Simoniz wax on there or 85 dollar (CAN dollars of course :o) Pinnacle Souveran, if the paint isn't prepped properly I don't think you will see much difference.



3. I know you can use Meguiars Quik Detailer (the normal one, maroon bottle) to lubricate clay, not sure about UQD.
 
1. Probably touch up paint.

2. You must use a clay bar, and polish to prepare the paint for your LSP

3. You could but pretty expensive way to go. Car wash soap or any QD would work
 
1. The 1st pic is a real close up. The 2nd pic shows my hood all waxed up but unfortuantely the white dots are easily seen. Its gonna be hard to touch up the entire hood, I have a feeling you guys will suggest a paint job. Or maybe I should get a UDM for that?



2. Im getting the clay bar, that must definitely be holding back the shine.



3. I can use car wash soap? So basically just mix my Meguiars gold class car wash into some water and use that as clay lube?
 
but mix in a spray bottle. Keep your clay in your wash bucket and clay while washing using your spray bottle quite often to provide plenty of lube for your clay.
 
LangMan37 said:
but mix in a spray bottle. Keep your clay in your wash bucket and clay while washing using your spray bottle quite often to provide plenty of lube for your clay.
Click to expand...



So your saying I should clay WHILE washing? Now that just throws a curveball from all my research which says you should dry first then clay. :S
 
I'm sorry I should have stated more clearly; wash first, then before drying, using your spray bottle, clay. I should have also stated that I use ONR; so I'm washing, claying, drying panel by panel. Sorry for the confusion. Washing with a hose, I would clay after BOTH washing and drying to avoid the water spots with having the whole car wet.
 
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