New guy questions and thoughts [long, with 500k of images]

[elgineddie]

Hi team,

I'm new to detailing and have a few questions in the form of a long, drawn-out brain fart. (I did get answers to other questions by literally reading the first 22 pages of posts as a lurking experience.) Hope this is cool to bunch it all under one post. Please be kind but firm...



Q: How long do pads really last? A couple uses? Only once? (Subjective, I know but looking for some ballpark) How will I know if they are worn and useless?



Q: Why is my car a dust magnet? When I used a terry bonnet my rear plastic spoiler looked like a static-charged fuzz ball.



Observation: My car's previous owner thought it was best to let new paint "cure" and didn't wash/wax it for a good long while. Now I've got spots etched into my hood and roof that I'm certain are down to the primer. I've heard Subaru paint and clear coat is "thin" so if I can't get it out with a lite cut and orange pad I'm gonna leave it be. (see 1st pic)



Observation: Using a stiff-bristle detailing brush to clean dried white compound or wax from around moldings next to the body paint (washer fluid nozzle, roof rack mounts, intercooler scoop, door handles) will re-scratch the paint.

Do I need to start the process all over again to get them little scratches out (strip the wax, orange pad it, de-swirl polish, wax)?



Since I'm a newbie I'm still getting things together, reading and making shopping lists. I think I've gotta step up to some more "professional" liquids.



My PC-7424 process on my black '07 Subaru:

LC yellow pad with 3M Fine-cut Rubbing Compound just on the bad water spots and deeper scratches

LC orange pad with TurtleWax Premium Rubbing Compound

LC white pad with Mothers glaze

Hand-applied Collinite wax with foam applicator, MF towel removal (looked real nice!)

Final buff with terry bonnet (<-- bad idea, added a handful of tiny, wispy scratches. Shoulda hand polished with MF.)

Used a detail brush to clean dried crud from seams (<-- another bad idea, added plenty of fine, little scratches)



Q: will Collinite make my car faster? (just kidding... it's a check to see if you're still reading)



This has been quite the learning experience!

Thanks in advance for any input.



Ed in Chicagoland





Water spot??

Just a sideview.

 

[Accumulator]

Q: How long do pads really last? A couple uses? Only once? (Subjective, I know but looking for some ballpark) How will I know if they are worn and useless?

Some pads last almost forever and most last a long, long time. Other than the velcro going bad or big chunks coming out of the foam, IMO the biggest issue is that cutting pads wear down and become less aggressive. Generally, IME it's pretty obvious when a pad needs replaced. Have a spare or two on hand, but don't worry about it.

Q: Why is my car a dust magnet? When I used a terry bonnet my rear plastic spoiler looked like a static-charged fuzz ball.

Static electricity from a lot of rubbing and/or some LSPs are simply prone to dust attraction/retention.

Observation: My car's previous owner thought it was best to let new paint "cure" and didn't wash/wax it for a good long while. Now I've got spots etched into my hood and roof that I'm certain are down to the primer. I've heard Subaru paint and clear coat is "thin" so if I can't get it out with a lite cut and orange pad I'm gonna leave it be. (see 1st pic)

That looks like nasty etching. Not to primer, but deep enough that you shouldn't *IMO* remove it completely. Yeah, my Subies always had sorta thin clear so proceed cautiously and aim for "better" instead of "nearly perfect".

Observation: Using a stiff-bristle detailing brush to clean dried white compound or wax from around moldings next to the body paint (washer fluid nozzle, roof rack mounts, intercooler scoop, door handles) will re-scratch the paint.

Do I need to start the process all over again to get them little scratches out (strip the wax, orange pad it, de-swirl polish, wax)?

Yeah, you gotta start over to get the scratches out. And remember the lesson- stuff that'll scratch paint shouldn't get anywhere *NEAR* the paint because accidents do happen.

Use less product and/or put tape over the moldings (slightly larger than the molding to cover the gaps). Remove excess product with *very* soft, plush MFs soaked with something like Meg's #34 or ONR- let the product soften the excess and wipe away gently (yeah, that takes a while but not as long as repolishing ).

Since I'm a newbie I'm still getting things together, reading and making shopping lists. I think I've gotta step up to some more "professional" liquids...My PC-7424 process on my black '07 Subaru:

I'll give you my opinions, based on the Subie paint I've dealt with and what I perceive your experience level to be.

LC yellow pad with 3M Fine-cut Rubbing Compound just on the bad water spots and deeper scratches

Forget the 5"-6.5" pads for this step. Get a small backing plate and some 4" pads. Subie paint oughta correct OK with 4" green Cyclo brand polishing pads IME. Might take a few passes. Doing it with a 4" orange light cut pad will make things go faster, but you'll have to be a little careful not to overdo it (don't worry, it's not that risky).



A more aggressive approach would be to use 3.5" LC brand Purple Foamed Wool pads. These require an even smaller backing plate than the 4" pads (see my thread on using the 3.5" LC PFW pads via PC). These leave some hazing (easily cleared up with a second pass using foam) but are *VERY* safe.



The 3M PI-II FCRC is OK but *!DON'T BREATH THE DUST!". Unless you're gonna use a good dustmask I'd get a different product. I'd lean towards 1Z Intensive or HT Extreme Cut.

LC orange pad with TurtleWax Premium Rubbing Compound

You won't need this step, use *one* aggressive step as described above and then go to a second milder step.

LC white pad with Mothers glaze

Using a 4" pad (Cyclo brand green or Sonus/LC brand white), use a product with a little cut. I kinda like 1Z High Gloss but the 1Z Paint Polish is probably the best choice for you. It leaves a little wax behind, so if you're tired at this point you can wait and apply the "real wax" after the next time you wash. I think you'll *REALLY* like the 1Z Paint Polish (sources for 1Z: Welcome to Exceldetail.com! or Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing ).



Even though "it's the process, not the product", using the right stuff can make this a whole 'nother ballgame. No way to overstate how strongly I recommend user-friendly stuff like the 1Z polishes; doing correction with the wrong stuff is a PIA chore.



And I'm not foolin' about how much better the 4" pads work, seriously.

Hand-applied Collinite wax with foam applicator, MF towel removal (looked real nice!)

Good choice :xyxthumbs

Final buff with terry bonnet (<-- bad idea, added a handful of tiny, wispy scratches. Shoulda hand polished with MF.)

Used a detail brush to clean dried crud from seams (<-- another bad idea, added plenty of fine, little scratches)

Learned your lessons, right?

Q: will Collinite make my car faster? (just kidding... it's a check to see if you're still reading)

Well, it *can*, because it'll last so long that you can spend your time doing driving schools instead of rewaxing the car



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!