New England Winter product show down: HD Poxy vs. FK’s 1000p

tom p.

Active member
Here is my weekend project. We spent a couple hours cleaning up my 2011 Audi A4 and doing my classic winter prep. I recently purchased Uno and Poxy and used that on approximately 3/4 of the surface area. I did the remaining 25% of the car with my "known" preferred combo consisting of KAIO as my base and FK 1000p as my LSP. I have had very good success with this product providing protection thru 6 tough months of winter here in the Boston area.



The KAIO + 1000p was applied to the left quarter panel, the entire deck lid, tail lights and the rear bumper cover.



The Uno/Poxy was used on the balance of the car including the glass (not windshield) and headlight covers.



I applied a bit of REJEX to the rocker panel textured surface just to add one more test area.



The process was limited to:



  • attempting to strip the DP PoliCoat product with a Spray 9 degreaser run thru the foam gun
  • Clay
  • Clean/polish (Uno or KAIO)
  • single stage sealing with Poxy or 1000p (I did a single coat only of each sealant. I normally do two applications of 1000p, but I want to maintain a level playing field for the products.)



I had limited success removing the PoliCoat which was applied this past July and has been on duty since. It's a great product given how e-z it is to apply and work with. I can't say enough positive things about this product. It's a stand-out.



Here's a shot of the beading taken earlier in the week. Beading is still very good:



start.jpg






Here's my break point for applying the Klasse/1000p:



quarter.jpg




The car has never been clayed. I thought the lower panels would be much worse in terms of bonded contaminants - - not the case here:



clay.jpg




KAIO + 1000p (note the 1000p residue on the pad from my previous use months ago, more on this later.):



klasse.jpg




Cleaning/polishing with KAIO:



klasseapp.jpg






Application of the Poxy. Extremely easy to work with, very pleasant odor. Child's play, really ;)



apply_poxy.jpg




poxy-1.jpg




nearing completion:



hoodshot.jpg




The fruity smell of the Poxy seemed to attract every small bug flying around on the 65F day:



fly.jpg




REJEX on the rocker panel surfaces:



rejex.jpg




Done:



final.jpg




final1.jpg




I'll periodically update with comments and the occasional photo as we move thru winter.



I'm not sure what version of Poxy I have, I guess it could be V.4 or V.3. It is extremely thick, you can't really "shake" the bottle to mix the product up. Very small amounts of the product are used. The Poxy is stellar on glass. Maybe better than anything else I've used recently.



The air temp was about 65F the day of the application. The car had a couple days of rest in the garage so there are no issues with proper bonding, etc.



I'm really keeping my fingers crossed that the Poxy can stand duty next to my beloved 1000p. Those are some tall orders.



twins.jpg






I use my supply of Royal Brown for various tasks no longer to include wheel cleaning. I found the stuff is amazing for getting pads cleaned up in a jiffy. It had no problems quickly removing the 1000p residue, both old and fresh, from my pad. And that’s my Autopian Top-Tip of the day!!



bucket.jpg
 
Tom,

I will be following your post with interest as I am curious how Uno/Poxy stands up against Klasse/FK1000P especially with the snow & salt.



Last year for my Winter beater I use Klasse Aio as my cleaner and topped that with a combo of Meguiars #16 and Collonite 845, but this year I think I'll try FK1000P as my LSP.



You had a beautiful day Saturday here in New England with temps in the mid 60s it was the perfect detailing day and it looks like you had a great helper too.



Jeff
 
Thanks, guys.



Yeah, I'm gonna be one very UNhappy camper if I'm forced to do a major re-work come Jan or Feb.



FWIW, and I did mean to mention this above, the initial slickness and gloss is somewhat superior with the Poxy. Some have said it has sort of a "carnauba" look it, slightly oily. Reminds me of the P21S product...
 
tom P.- Heh heh, you're looking younger than ever! :chuckle:



So you did decide to do this huh?!? My only concern is that single application of FK1000P, it just behaves a whole lot different for me when I do two. Yeah, I get the equalized baseline and all, but (if I can spend your time ;) ) what about doing two applicatons of both? I was almost as surprised by how one coat (of FK1000P) started to die off as I was by how two coats lasted such an incredibly long time (I *still* haven't needed to redo the roof or hood of the Tahoe, and it's been over ten months now!).
 
Accumulator said:
So you did decide to do this huh?!? My only concern is that single application of FK1000P, it just behaves a whole lot different for me when I do two. Yeah, I get the equalized baseline and all, but (if I can spend your time ;) ) what about doing two applicatons of both? I was almost as surprised by how one coat (of FK1000P) started to die off as I was by how two coats lasted such an incredibly long time (I *still* haven't needed to redo the roof or hood of the Tahoe, and it's been over ten months now!).



I generally do two "layers" or more of any LSP that I've used over the past 10 (??) years. Two things concerned me, and I mentioned one to you off-line. I looked at that test that someone did with a highly accurate measuring device and the second "layer" often disturbed or reduced the thickness of the first coating :( Furthermore, I asked Ben about doing two layers of the Poxy, he suggested I stick with just a single. So, that's what I've done and I don't think it's completely fair in the A/B test to double-up on the 1000p. Let's see how it does. I don't have any expectations either way, and suspect the 1000p single coating will be OK thru the winter.



First Poxy update: a bird made a small doodie on the front fender yesterday and I didn't notice it 'til this morning. It wiped off the fender (MF towel + ONR mist) as if it had never bonded. The surface was completely clean with just a single wipe, no staining or ghost impression :)
 
I'l be interested to see how the Poxy holds up. I hopes it does compare to FK1000P in terms of durability, since it seems that Poxy has a very easy application to it
 
Yeah, that's my hope (and concern) that it lasts a good, long time. It's a dream to work with and looks like a million bux if you go for that very glossy look. I washed the car for the first time two days ago. it really looks nice :)
 
RedlineIRL said:
Do you have any beading pictures of FK1000P along side the Poxy? Kinda looks like Poxy is starting to drop off some IMO



You might have that impression, might just be a characteristic of the product. I think it's way too earlier to say the product is fading.



Here's a shot of the tail when the car came out of the rain last night. You'll notice the certified FK tightness ;)



rear.jpg
 
Tom P.- Those Poxy beads are far too big and flat for my taste. I know it's just my notions about this stuff, but they say "dying LSP" to me. But sure, somebody could easily counter with one of the "beading is bad, or at least meaningless!" argument; I just like what I like.
 
LOL....Guys, c'mon. :grinno: You have to give it a chance. It hasn't even been two weeks, and the hood shots are of a "dirty" surface. The Poxy may have different characteristics compared to the 1000p.



Believe me, you'll know about it if there is a problem with Poxy ;)
 
Great test Tom, can't wait to see how it works out.



I do agree with Accumulator regarding the extreme durability difference between one and two coats of 1000p (the look you get from a second coat of 1000p is also, IMO, much better than one).



I'm gonna be joining you in this test soon. The wife's SUV is going to get Poxy'd for this winter. It's outside 24/7, so it's gonna have it's work cut out for it.



In addition to durability, I'll be looking hard at Poxy's dirt releasing abilities. Her SUV will see nothing but touch less washes until warm weather returns. If Poxy comes close to 1000p in this regard I'll be very impressed; 1000p is a seriously easy sealant to clean.



I keep going back and forth on the beading as a function of an LSP still being viable. I sure don't think it's an accurate way to tell if 1000p is dead. With 100p I go by when I'm not able to get the car as clean as usual with a touch free wash to determine when the 1000p is shot, which is usually many weeks after it stops affecting how water looks on the surface.



Love the pics. :)
 
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