Here`s a quick rundown of how I detailed and applied an LSP to my new daily driver, a 2018 Mustang GT. As an enthusiast and not a pro, I learned a few things from the entire process. To give some background, I purchased the car in 2017 and slapped on some Ccquartz UK + Reload. This combo worked great. Unfortunately when I applied CQUK, the lighting was poor and I ended up with a handful of pesky high spots. So my goal this time around was to polish the paint to eliminate as many defects as possible before trying out a new LSP (I went with Kamikaze ISM + Overcoat...probably because of the great marketing from Esoteric). I only have final result photos due to time constraints.
Decon. The wheels were fairly clean so they were given a basic wash with carguys wheel cleaner (great stuff by the way).
Rinse with a power washer -> Foam cannon
So I`ve found this step to be optional because of its limited effectiveness but hey if there`s time, foaming up a car is pretty fun. This step would probably make more sense if you were using a soap designed to break down wax, etc.
After foaming -> Rinse -> Two bucket wash -> Rinse -> Iron X
At this point, I used my wash mitt to make sure the Iron X covered the entire vehicle. Unfortunately I didn`t see my car bleed as advertised but the paint is dark blue. FYI this stuff smells like it was formulated from rotten eggs and skunk balls. Cherry scent my ***, hah!
After iron decon -> Clay bar -> Rinse -> Dry (leaf blower and WW microfiber towels) -> Polish
Polish
I used a Griots Garage G15 DA with a combo of GG Correcting Cream, GG Finishing Sealant, and orange/white/black foam pads. My plan of attack at this point was to go after the most visible defects first, then do a once over with the finishing sealant. For the deepest clear coat scratches, I only went far enough to blend them instead of removing them completely. Looking back, there are some micro scratches here and there but I`ll live with them for now. I also should`ve been more diligent with taping off the plastic trim prior to polishing. Decent lighting and time are probably the most important parts of this step.
After polish -> Gyeon prep to remove all oils etc -> Coating
Coating
Kamikaze ISM is pretty easy to apply. It goes on the paint easily enough and leaves a rainbow haze which makes it easy to track your progress panel by panel. I`d say ISM is easier to remove than CQUK. If you don`t have indoor lighting, a cloudy day is really the best time. After 30 minutes, I applied Overcoat. Simple spray and wipe. Immediately after coating, the paint shines and looks freshly waxed. Visually it may be slightly better than CQUK. I`ll leave more impressions with how the coating behaves in the rain and how it holds up to dirt and grime.
My next steps for this car are to polish the door jambs, detail the exhaust tips, and address the plastic trim on the outside of the car.
Decon. The wheels were fairly clean so they were given a basic wash with carguys wheel cleaner (great stuff by the way).
Rinse with a power washer -> Foam cannon
So I`ve found this step to be optional because of its limited effectiveness but hey if there`s time, foaming up a car is pretty fun. This step would probably make more sense if you were using a soap designed to break down wax, etc.
After foaming -> Rinse -> Two bucket wash -> Rinse -> Iron X
At this point, I used my wash mitt to make sure the Iron X covered the entire vehicle. Unfortunately I didn`t see my car bleed as advertised but the paint is dark blue. FYI this stuff smells like it was formulated from rotten eggs and skunk balls. Cherry scent my ***, hah!
After iron decon -> Clay bar -> Rinse -> Dry (leaf blower and WW microfiber towels) -> Polish
Polish
I used a Griots Garage G15 DA with a combo of GG Correcting Cream, GG Finishing Sealant, and orange/white/black foam pads. My plan of attack at this point was to go after the most visible defects first, then do a once over with the finishing sealant. For the deepest clear coat scratches, I only went far enough to blend them instead of removing them completely. Looking back, there are some micro scratches here and there but I`ll live with them for now. I also should`ve been more diligent with taping off the plastic trim prior to polishing. Decent lighting and time are probably the most important parts of this step.
After polish -> Gyeon prep to remove all oils etc -> Coating
Coating
Kamikaze ISM is pretty easy to apply. It goes on the paint easily enough and leaves a rainbow haze which makes it easy to track your progress panel by panel. I`d say ISM is easier to remove than CQUK. If you don`t have indoor lighting, a cloudy day is really the best time. After 30 minutes, I applied Overcoat. Simple spray and wipe. Immediately after coating, the paint shines and looks freshly waxed. Visually it may be slightly better than CQUK. I`ll leave more impressions with how the coating behaves in the rain and how it holds up to dirt and grime.
My next steps for this car are to polish the door jambs, detail the exhaust tips, and address the plastic trim on the outside of the car.
