Need "winterizing" advice for new car

J

jmhumr

New member
Howdy,



I just bought a new CX-7 and I'd like some suggestions about treating it before the winter. On my older car I'd just put a couple coats of wax on it, but this is my first brand new car so I'm wondering if I can do better.



Keep in mind that I don't have a garage, so I need a plan that I can execute in one day. Also, if there are treatments I should have done professionally, let me know. I didn't buy any treatments from the dealership.



Thanks!
 
Although I'm still learning myself, I would personally do clay + some type of quality sealant (perhaps Klasse AIO?) + a couple of coats of Collinite 845.
 
I personally recommend Duragloss.



www.duragloss.com



Items needed:

Duragloss Bonding Agent

Duragloss Total Performance Polish

Duragloss Aquawax Spray

Microfiber Towels to buff off residue

Applicator Pads. The 4 pack from your local Autozone will be fine.



1)Using a Clay Bar here is optional. Since it is a brand new car, it might not need it, but if it was sitting on the lot, then you want to do this. On that site linked there is a host of information and a claying video.



2)Apply Duragloss Bonding Agent with applicator pad. You dont need alot of bonding agent, this stuff spreads like melted butter. Keep pad flat and go in a circular motion.



Let car dry to a haze for ~25 mins. Then apply the 105 on top of the hazed agent.



3) Apply Duragloss 105 to vehicle in the same method as the bonding agent. Make sure you shake it well before using. I usually put 3 coats on an hour or two apart. The deph just gets better with every coat :)



After each coat hazes, buff it off again with a microfiber towel.



4) After you have done all of this, top it with the aquawax. This gives the vehicle a little extra protection, deph, wetness, and even a nice amount of flake pop.



Just spray in straight lines and wipe off with a microfiber towel. Make sure you get the whole car. One layer is all that is needed.





NOTE: Renewing your coat of aquawax between washes makes duragloss 105 last forever... Up to six months!



Also I have had great success using Duragloss 111 on my mothers Volvo XC-90's rims. Everything slides right off.



My duragloss application is going strong for 3 -4 months now. When it rains your car is like a mega water drop, and when you go, it shoots off behind you...that guy on the bike was maaad.. hehe [Just stoped raining and he just brought it out, then SPLOOSH!] anyways...





if you would like some pictures of my camry, Id be glad to post some up.
 
please please do use clay... I have to disagree with those who say that its ok to skip the clay because the car is new.



The big contaminants part with the new cars comes from the fact that they are transported on the open road and in the open air... my tC didn't sit on the lot for more than 4 hours. It was even "detailed" in that time... I still got a fair amount of crap when I clayed it a day or two later.
 
What is this "clay" being mentioned? I thought I knew a lot about car car before I came to this site, but I've never heard of any of the products mentioned here. :)
 
paul34 said:
please please do use clay... I have to disagree with those who say that its ok to skip the clay because the car is new.



The big contaminants part with the new cars comes from the fact that they are transported on the open road and in the open air... my tC didn't sit on the lot for more than 4 hours. It was even "detailed" in that time... I still got a fair amount of crap when I clayed it a day or two later.
Click to expand...



I agree. Dealership detailers who get paid 3 dollars per vehicle wont take care of the paint. The vehicle is most likely outdoors for a couple months or even a year before being sold. Plenty of contamination can occur and needs to be removed. Claying is a vital step to every detail for a proper paint correction and finish.
 
2)Apply Duragloss Bonding Agent with applicator pad. You dont need alot of bonding agent, this stuff spreads like melted butter. Keep pad flat and go in a circular motion.



Let car dry to a haze for ~25 mins. Buff off with microfiber towel.



3) Apply Duragloss 105 to vehicle in the same method as the bonding agent. Make sure you shake it well before using. I usually put 3 coats on an hour or two apart. The deph just gets better with every coat
Click to expand...



correction...do NOT remove the PBA before applying the TPP 105. it may not matter that much in the end, but you are technically supposed to let 601 haze...then apply 105...let that haze...then remove BOTH at the same time.



.02
 
jmhumr said:
What is this "clay" being mentioned? I thought I knew a lot about car car before I came to this site, but I've never heard of any of the products mentioned here. :)
Click to expand...



Detailing%20Clay.jpg




Claying a vehicle involves using a bar of synthetic, hardened goo to remove tough contamination on paint and glass (and rims since most newer rims are clearcoated). The contaminents are industrial fallout(Iron Oxide*rust*), environmental fallout (dust, dirt, pollen and other fun stuff), and other particles that have made a strong bond to the paint. Professional detailing clay has a different abrasive(think sandpaper) level of aggresiveness. You first clean the surface well, dry it and then prep it with clay lubricant (soapy water). While it is still lubricated, you run the clay across the paint and it will pick up almost all foreign objects. It will leave a very smooth finish. There is also a risk though, clay can scratch your vehicle if it collects too many particles. You can fold the clay over to use new sides until it is filled, then you have to throw it away and use a new bar. It is a pretty pricey thing to do on your car, but the finish is unparalleled.



Usually, some clay marks (scuffing and scratches) are left over after the claying process due to not using enough lubricant. So you need to polish the scratches out.





Hope this was helpful.
 
paradigm said:
correction...do NOT remove the PBA before applying the TPP 105. it may not matter that much in the end, but you are technically supposed to let 601 haze...then apply 105...let that haze...then remove BOTH at the same time.



.02
Click to expand...



oops, my bad hehe. Just got done with my car too.. wow..
 
even if it a new car I would clay bar it. It would take max 10 mins as part of the regular bucket (2) wash). Then if if it has no swirl marks I would put some light polish maybe Menzerna and follow it with Menzerna FMJ and upkeep it with Menzeran HGAS.



If you are so inclined you can use the Zaino process. I bit more time consuming. It would last longer.



If you do not want to use synthentic and want to go waxes use Collinite and upkeep it with Aquawax.





I would also suggest to vacuum and clean the interior on a regular basis so it will not get out of hand.

I usually remove the mats (I have winter mats). If it looks like there is some dirt I spray a couple times with a carpet cleaner or some very diluted APC. I rub until most of dirt stain is gone and then dry vacuum.



Regards



Nick
 
So is it a consensus that the Zaino process would last longer than the Klassee AIO + Collinite + Aquawax? I'm looking for endurance here, since I live in an apartment. I don't mind a time-consuming application so long as I don't have to repeat it as often.



Thanks.
 
jmhumr said:
So is it a consensus that the Zaino process would last longer than the Klassee AIO + Collinite + Aquawax? I'm looking for endurance here, since I live in an apartment. I don't mind a time-consuming application so long as I don't have to repeat it as often.



Thanks.
Click to expand...



I would say yes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top