Need to Switch up to longer lasting LSP over Meg`s UW for Oregon Winters.

R

Randy Mc

New member
I haven`t posted here for a long while. Back when Mike Phillips worked for Megs in fact and used to post here. I need to switch up to something that lasts longer than Meg`s UW. I really don`t switch up much. In the last 15 years I`ve used Klasse AIO and SG (that stuffs sucks getting off) NXT, both P21S waxes, M21 and my latest bottle of UW is pretty much empty. UW is just ok. Doesn`t do all that much for me, doesn`t last and it`s hard to see once it`s dried which makes it tough to find where it is.

My prep method is clay, M205 (M105 if it needs it) w/ my PC DA and Megs pads and then my LSP. My cars are white, off white and a darker silver. Been reading about FK1000P, Pinnacle, Wolfgang sealant, Blackfire and a host of others. I figure that whatever will look good on the new silver car is going to look good on the other two white(ish) cars. So yeah I`m looking for the unicorn LSP. One that looks great and will last through the rainy months. Is there a new product out there getting good reviews? Thanks...
 
If you are open to a lite version of a coating then I’ll recommended Gyeon CanCoat. Pair it Gyeon Primer Polish and Cure and you will have great results.

It does require a prep wipe prior to applying CanCoat. FYI it’s not hard to use at all.

Other than that any of the sealants you mentioned will be fine.
 
My favorite would be WG`s, a couple layers then some nice wax.

I was using BF`s but it has a strong perfume scent.
So strong that after sealing my Malibu, I went shopping and smelled of perfume bad enough
for people to turn and take a hard second look.. (like I was in my own perfume cloud) :blink:
 
I think Collinite 845 is what you are looking for. Exceptional durability, good at releasing contaminants, excellent protection and looks awesome on white or silver.
 
FK1000P. Period.

BF darkened the paint too much for my taste (so much I stripped it off) and it didn`t last very long at all.

Collinite`s 846 is user-friendly, works on trim (if you do it right), and isn`t bad overall. I still use it for a few areas on one car, but it doesn`t compare with the FK IME. Ditto for their 476S and Meguiar`s M16.

I should note that at least one member here found that the Collinites *did* outlast FK1000P for him. That was totally counter to my experiences, but/and just goes to show that !YMMV! always applies.

EDIT: KSG X 6 lasted almost as long as the FK, but I didn`t like the look nearly as well and all that layering makes for a lot of downtime.
 
Accumulator said:
FK1000P. Period.

BF darkened the paint too much for my taste (so much I stripped it off) and it didn`t last very long at all.

Collinite`s 846 is user-friendly, works on trim (if you do it right), and isn`t bad overall. I still use it for a few areas on one car, but it doesn`t compare with the FK IME. Ditto for their 476S and Meguiar`s M16.

I should note that at least one member here found that the Collinites *did* outlast FK1000P for him. That was totally counter to my experiences, but/and just goes to show that !YMMV! always applies.

EDIT: KSG X 6 lasted almost as long as the FK, but I didn`t like the look nearly as well and all that layering makes for a lot of downtime.
Click to expand...

That might have been me. I get twice the durability with 845 vs FK1000p. I do like the way FK looks on darker colors.
 
Dan said:
That might have been me. I get twice the durability with 845 vs FK1000p.
Click to expand...

Nah, it was somebody else, guess that makes at least two of you. I *still* don`t understand the differing experiences, the 845 simple doesn`t compare for me...have to redo the 845ed parts of the `93 Audi all the time, while the FKed sections just last and last.

I do like the way FK looks on darker colors.
Click to expand...

I`ve come to like it OK on darks, but I did like the look of 476S better on them.
 
There are so much of awesome stuff out there. What look do you prefer? The crisp high shine or the more like carnuaba glow or something in the middle?

On my silver metallic car I do see a difference between some of them. For an example Gyeon Wet Coat gets me that higher shine like some coatings. Did found out that for me it was a too crispy look. The last I applyied is Angelwax Enigma QED. Which is a more of the carnuaba glow look. Suits my silver metallic car better. Angelwax Enigma is a little line of products in AW. The Enigma ceramic wax and Enigma QED and Enigma Ceramic Infused car soap. I have the 2 last products I have used. And they looks great. The downside is the high price of them. But they are of a high quality. Enigma Ceramic Wax you gets at least 4-6 months of solid protection and that`s counted low.

Must say that the Ultima Paint Guard Plus is an underated product. I have the old version which where oil based. The new is water based and can also be used as a drying aid that leaves a topped up protection. And with maintance products from Ultima you have a great line of products with. Just remember that the products is highly concentrated and goes a long way. I have a the Ultima Interior Guard Plus 12oz bottle and it will be lasting me my lifetime lol.
The hughe benefit when applying Ultima Paint Guard Plus is that it`s a WOWA (wipe on walk away). It`s fast and easy to apply. 2 coats lasted me april--october. And it`s easy to just top it up with a new coat if only useing Ultima products.

It`s also how you see on the LSP products you use. I like to much to switch and test out products. Some like it minimal and it just works. There you can use whatever product mentioned above in the thread. Then you have the budget to consider. One brand I like a lot of the higher end of the budget is Polish Angel. A little goes a long way with these too. The coating Cosmic v2 and Viking Coat is like a sealant to apply. You can even apply by polisher. And you have color matched LSP. Very easy to apply all of the products I have heard of. After I get time to polishing my car I have PA Master Sealant that I have at home just waiting LOL.

The most bang for the buck. Fk1000p and Collinite 845, 476s, 915 and Jescar/ Menzerna Power Lock. And Duragloss has come up resently and mostly their rinseless wash is it 931 I think. That in QD dilution has gotten some pretty impresive results in a sealant testing thread on AGO. An awesome combo is Sonax Polymer Net Shield PNS and Brilliant Shine Detailer BSD. It`s extremly hydrophobic and great self cleaning ability for beeing a sealant and QD and good durability too.

Sorry for all of the suggestions. But it`s not so easy to say what is the best product. It`s more what`s the best product for you and your needs and expectations.

And Meguiars has just updated their 105/205 combo. For a better user experience look at the new M110/M210 combo. It has happened much in the abrasive technology last years. For an example 3D One polish. You get a compound and finishing polish in the same product. Just dial in which pad to do what you want to do.

/ Tony
 
SWETM said:
There are so much of awesome stuff out there. What look do you prefer? The crisp high shine or the more like carnuaba glow or something in the middle?

On my silver metallic car I do see a difference between some of them. For an example Gyeon Wet Coat gets me that higher shine like some coatings. Did found out that for me it was a too crispy look. The last I applyied is Angelwax Enigma QED. Which is a more of the carnuaba glow look. Suits my silver metallic car better. Angelwax Enigma is a little line of products in AW. The Enigma ceramic wax and Enigma QED and Enigma Ceramic Infused car soap. I have the 2 last products I have used. And they looks great. The downside is the high price of them. But they are of a high quality. Enigma Ceramic Wax you gets at least 4-6 months of solid protection and that`s counted low.

Must say that the Ultima Paint Guard Plus is an underated product. I have the old version which where oil based. The new is water based and can also be used as a drying aid that leaves a topped up protection. And with maintance products from Ultima you have a great line of products with. Just remember that the products is highly concentrated and goes a long way. I have a the Ultima Interior Guard Plus 12oz bottle and it will be lasting me my lifetime lol.
The hughe benefit when applying Ultima Paint Guard Plus is that it`s a WOWA (wipe on walk away). It`s fast and easy to apply. 2 coats lasted me april--october. And it`s easy to just top it up with a new coat if only useing Ultima products.

It`s also how you see on the LSP products you use. I like to much to switch and test out products. Some like it minimal and it just works. There you can use whatever product mentioned above in the thread. Then you have the budget to consider. One brand I like a lot of the higher end of the budget is Polish Angel. A little goes a long way with these too. The coating Cosmic v2 and Viking Coat is like a sealant to apply. You can even apply by polisher. And you have color matched LSP. Very easy to apply all of the products I have heard of. After I get time to polishing my car I have PA Master Sealant that I have at home just waiting LOL.

The most bang for the buck. Fk1000p and Collinite 845, 476s, 915 and Jescar/ Menzerna Power Lock. And Duragloss has come up resently and mostly their rinseless wash is it 931 I think. That in QD dilution has gotten some pretty impresive results in a sealant testing thread on AGO. An awesome combo is Sonax Polymer Net Shield PNS and Brilliant Shine Detailer BSD. It`s extremly hydrophobic and great self cleaning ability for beeing a sealant and QD and good durability too.

Sorry for all of the suggestions. But it`s not so easy to say what is the best product. It`s more what`s the best product for you and your needs and expectations.

And Meguiars has just updated their 105/205 combo. For a better user experience look at the new M110/M210 combo. It has happened much in the abrasive technology last years. For an example 3D One polish. You get a compound and finishing polish in the same product. Just dial in which pad to do what you want to do.

/ Tony
Click to expand...

I`d say right now that FK1000P, Sonax PNS, Collinite 845 are on my list. Meg`s new ceramic wax might be the ticket on my white cars over the winter as well and even maybe my silver 911. Definitely going to be getting the M110/210 combo. Before the 105/205 I used to use the #83 DACP and #80 speed glaze so i look at the new products as an evolution .
 
Accumulator,

It isn’t actually that odd for people to have different durability claims when comparing two LSP’s. Some LSPs resist different chemicals better than others. Those chemicals can be in the wash water, rain, industrial pollution, road salts for some examples. Even different panels of a vehicle get abused differently. Lower panels behind wheels actually take a beating during winter months In some areas due to anti-skid materials actually kind of sand blasting the protection away. Maybe sunnier hotter states take more of a heat beating on the hoods compared to other areas.

I feel we can generally classify the durability of LSPs over others but there are situations where some can outperform others due to geographic location. In you case I find Collinite 915 to last longer than FK1000 in the winter months when salt is heavy. Exact opposite in summer months when I have only sun and rain to deal with..... the FK 1000 will last longer. This is In my specific location.
 
If coating with a ceramic coat or glass coating not a thing. Try a spray on sio2 spray sealant/topper Most claim 4-6 months durability. I live in Washington so same weather and coated with hydro silex going on 2 months still beading strong. If heard great things bout black fire sio2. If pricing not issue maybe one of polish angels Viking or cosmic spritz. They look to be awesome as well.
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I wasn`t quite getting the protection against bugs I wanted when using the Si02 sprays. Water behavior was great but bugs were sticking a little more than normal. I wasn`t "topping" a ceramic coating so I`m sure that makes a difference.
 
Dr. Oldz- Yeah, I guess I overstated my surprise at the varying experiences. Whole lotta variables, some of which must be highly significant. But I do find it interesting how consistent my LSP experiences have been; from dailies to the vehicles that never/only get used in certain conditions to use on wheels, and regardless of diffs in how they`re maintained, the durability/protection of my LSPs has been the same across the board.
 
Well I still have some Klasse AIO and SG left over from a while ago so I used it on the new car. Been using Ultimate wax for the longest time and that stuff just does not last. Anyway, I`ll do another coat of SG in 24 hours or so. I`m apprehensive about trying the FK1000P as I don`t want to mark up the black trim of my car. If I do try it (really would like to try it on my two other white cars) do you use 425 on the black trim to get the white markings of the FK1000P wax off?
 
Randy Mc said:
Well I still have some Klasse AIO and SG left over from a while ago so I used it on the new car...
Click to expand...

IMO you cold do a lot worse than just adding a few more coats of the KSG. I did well with six although I never really liked the look..not on anything.

... I`m apprehensive about trying the FK1000P as I don`t want to mark up the black trim of my car. If I do try it (really would like to try it on my two other white cars) do you use 425 on the black trim to get the white markings of the FK1000P wax off?
Click to expand...

Understood about the trim, that`s always been a biggie for me too. I didn`t have any trim issues with the FK, but I was pretty careful to keep it off those surfaces (which I actually found pretty easy, but understand it`s *tough* on some vehicles) and/or just buff it off right away if it does get on there.

I`ve even used the FK1000P on trim deliberately and had it work OK, but I put that in the "don`t try this at home, kids!" category as you`ve gotta buff it off *immediately* and thoroughly and eh, I can just imagine it biting somebody bigtime.

NO, I do not expect FK425 would remove the "white wax stains" if you do botch up the application and let it dry on the trim, at least not IME. But again, I`ve never let it be a big issue and was always able to fix it. FK425 can indeed have a solvent-effect on FK1000P in the sense of bringing back a dried out tin of the latter, and can help when buffing off a too-thick application, but IME it doesn`t do it in a "dissolve it off the trim" way.

I do think you`d like it, especially on white, and suspect that the trim won`t be that much of an issue. But hey, easy for me to say since I`m not doing your vehicles :o

Oh, and a belated acknowledgement of your prior use of M80 Speed Glaze! I used a lot of that stuff back in the day, and was still using it on certain fresh repaints until I switched to OCW for that. Funny about the M80 though, I noticed later that I could always get much better gloss with other products containing mild abrasives, guess the M80`s abrasives just weren`t as swell as I`d thought. And FWIW, I`ve *always* been able to get better gloss than M205 leaves too, so maybe the M210 will be an eye-opener for you.
 
Randy Mc:
For suggestions on what to do for trim protectants, please see the thread:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...adly-faded-black-trim-cladding.html?highlight=

As far as suggestions for an easy to apply and cost-effective LSP, I am of the Collinite wax camp. I use 915 Marque D`Elegance Wax personally because I like the carnauba glow it imparts to any color , BUT their 476S Super Double Coat Wax is more cost effective (AKA cheaper) and still looks pretty good to the average vehicle owner. I do know from personal experience that 476S paste wax will outlast liquid 845 Insulator Wax in salt-laden Wisconsin winters.

I see you`ve used the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze on your new vehicle. Keep us informed as to how this performs for you over your Oregon winter. I am not sure if your winters are more rainy than snowy and if you are subject to a lot of road salt de-icing like we are here in Wisconsin.
We tried using just sand many years back in the city of Green Bay when road salt was astronomically high in price and in very short supply to stay within our winter snow removal budget. There were SOOOO many car accidents that the city citizens revolted, along with car insurance companies, that they reverted back to using salt regardless of the cost. It has been that way ever since. They do use the very expensive calcium chloride on bridges and overpasses in extreme cold (below 0°F), which is very caustic to vehicle metals. That, and the beet juice liquid they mix with salt brine and pre-treat streets with are a REAL pain to remove via no-touch automated car washes. it just does not come off unless you physically WIPE it off. Removing Traffic Road Film (TRF) is another thread topic.
 
Well I finally got a can of FK and really like how slick it is on both of the cars I did. I put it on a bit too thick here and there however which takes some time to dry. If you dont wait for it to dry I noticed that it`s harder to buff off. We`re having a bit of a heat wave here in Oregon but when the rain comes back I`ll post back my findings on its longevity. I also got a bottle of Meg`s Ceramic Wax so I`ll be using that as a bit of a booster. Thanks everyone...
 
Randy Mc- Glad the FK is pleasing (at least so far). I`d absolutely get a second coat on there after the next wash, and maybe a third the wash after that.

And yeah, thin *thin* *THIN* :D
 
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