Need to choose a polish and sealant.

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DatacomGuy

New member
I need to pick out a polish and sealant.



For the polish, I'm looking at these. I like AIO's, but curious about the following:

  • Optimum Poli-Seal
  • Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish (with Glaze fillers) (really like this one, but have read its best to use with another polish, before wax (as a sealant then?)
  • Poorboy's World Polish with Sealant
  • Sonax Nano



I need a sealant also.. would any of these products take the place of the sealant? Or do I still need a good sealant on top of?



For the sealants, I was looking at:

  • Meguiar's Synthetic Sealant 2.0 M21
  • Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG)
  • Poorboy's World EX-P Sealant
  • Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger



I'm thinking of following up with Poorboy's liquid natty blue.



These are for my own vehicles. One is a brand new car (3 weeks old) and the other is an 08 that I just picked up. It needs help, and has tons of defects. I know the process will be different for both of these vehicles.. I also will be working on my brothers car, that is a long-neglected 2007 that has hardly ever been cared for. Never been waxed, tons of tunnel washes, and 3 years of Ohio winters.



I thought I knew waxing and detailing, but had no idea once I joined here. My previous steps were Meguiar's three step process. Cleaner/Polish/ Carnauba or NXT. I'm obviously missing some stuff here when I was going this route.



Please please please, any suggestions/changes/corrections, send my way.
 
I'm an advocate for Klasse AIO as your base, followed by FK 1000p sealant.



I've used some of the products you mention - - I think you can get better longevity with my suggested products. Two coats of 1000p will last many folks 6 months (or better).



Welcome aboard, Datacom!
 
Thanks Tom! I'm definitely good with that.. Would you recommend a wax on top of that 1000P?



Will I get that deep, wet/glossy look with either of those? Going to go read more about them now. I planned on picking up KAIO anyway for other uses, so it only make sense. Anything to reduce the first invoice for material, the better.. LOL
 
None of the mentioned AIO's will do any real correction. You also didn't mention clay or a machine.
 
Correction will definitely be important on the two used rides.



I have Meguiar's clay which I love. Also, i've always done by hand, and will do these by hand since a PC isn't in the budget just yet. Maybe next month, but I don't want to delay any more time. Comes down to - Spend $150 in materials, or $130 on the PC.. but its one or the other.



Although, further reading and studying shows I might just need to wait for the PC to properly polish. I suppose a month or two delay won't kill me.
 
yakky said:
None of the mentioned AIO's will do any real correction. You also didn't mention clay or a machine.
Click to expand...



Good points. I'm being assumptive and assumed finishes were like-new. However, OP may already have the basics covered on that stuff.
 
DatacomGuy said:
Thanks Tom! I'm definitely good with that.. Would you recommend a wax on top of that 1000P?



Will I get that deep, wet/glossy look with either of those? Going to go read more about them now. I planned on picking up KAIO anyway for other uses, so it only make sense. Anything to reduce the first invoice for material, the better.. LOL
Click to expand...



Yes, the 1000p leaves a bright, glossy finish. Forum brother Bence has appropriately described it as 'adding another layer of clearcoat'.



Yakky is correct about the prep phases. This is the single most important stage and is a make or break step.



I don't know what you currently own, but I'd put the PC (or equiv) way at the top of my list of near-term purchases. It will simplify your work and kick things up a notch or three in terms of a finished product.



I have a new tin of FK 1000p (15oz) if you want it for $19. I bought way too much of the stuff.
 
DatacomGuy said:
As a side note, I'm thinking of following this step by step for my new car.



My New Car Prep Process: BMW 550 – Detailed Image



But I still need to find products recommended for the 07 and 08 that need to be severely cleaned up.
Click to expand...



Welcome to Autopia!



I read through that link and I'd sure want to do a lot better job on a new car, but hey..that's just me.



What color is the new one? If it's light (white, silver, etc.) you might oughta really do it right as ferrous contamination ("rail dust") can lead to awful rust-blooms as it oxidizes.



Other sorta random thoughts:



-Sorting out your wash routine so you don' mar (i.e., swirl up) the paint is very challenging

-You really oughta buy a polisher, money well-spent with all those vehicles to care for; I'd get the Griot's Garage 6"

-AIOs are really just like high-tech cleaner waxes; for your situation (i.e., no polisher) I'd probably recommend Zaino AIO, though that Klasse AIO is just soooo useful that everybody oughta have it on the shelf IMO

-I'd sure take Tom P up on that FK1000P offer, and no, don't apply wax over top of it unless for some reason you simply can't stand the look (and note that it changes appearance a little bit over the curing period, which is about two days or so after you apply it)

-Make sure you have *GOOD* lighting under which to inspect your work

-The two used cars can be approached in a variety of ways, just how far do you want to go with them?
 
DatacomGuy said:
Correction will definitely be important on the two used rides.



I have Meguiar's clay which I love. Also, i've always done by hand, and will do these by hand since a PC isn't in the budget just yet. Maybe next month, but I don't want to delay any more time. Comes down to - Spend $150 in materials, or $130 on the PC.. but its one or the other.



Although, further reading and studying shows I might just need to wait for the PC to properly polish. I suppose a month or two delay won't kill me.
Click to expand...



You can getthe whole sheebang at amazon for $120. Clay, polish, wax and GG polisher including pads for $120.



Sorry no longer on sale. It goes on sale often at the $120 price
 
TedFred said:
You can getthe whole sheebang at amazon for $120. Clay, polish, wax and GG polisher including pads for $120.



Sorry no longer on sale. It goes on sale often at the $120 price
Click to expand...



Yep, that is an amazing deal though it seems to pop up quarterly. You are also going to need to invest in about $50 in pads. You can skimp on polishes and LSP's by getting UC and SwirlX from WalleyWorld and then grab some DG105.
 
TedFred said:
You can getthe whole sheebang at amazon for $120. Clay, polish, wax and GG polisher including pads for $120.



Sorry no longer on sale. It goes on sale often at the $120 price
Click to expand...



I was going to say, I don't see it :( Is that for the 6"? # 11605STDCRD



If so, I'll keep an eye out.
 
Accumulator said:
Welcome to Autopia!



I read through that link and I'd sure want to do a lot better job on a new car, but hey..that's just me.



What color is the new one? If it's light (white, silver, etc.) you might oughta really do it right as ferrous contamination ("rail dust") can lead to awful rust-blooms as it oxidizes.



Other sorta random thoughts:



-Sorting out your wash routine so you don' mar (i.e., swirl up) the paint is very challenging

-You really oughta buy a polisher, money well-spent with all those vehicles to care for; I'd get the Griot's Garage 6"

-AIOs are really just like high-tech cleaner waxes; for your situation (i.e., no polisher) I'd probably recommend Zaino AIO, though that Klasse AIO is just soooo useful that everybody oughta have it on the shelf IMO

-I'd sure take Tom P up on that FK1000P offer, and no, don't apply wax over top of it unless for some reason you simply can't stand the look (and note that it changes appearance a little bit over the curing period, which is about two days or so after you apply it)

-Make sure you have *GOOD* lighting under which to inspect your work

-The two used cars can be approached in a variety of ways, just how far do you want to go with them?
Click to expand...



Thanks for the help!!



All three are dark. The new car is "dark slate" (2011 Altima). The wife's SUV is midnight blue (08 Saturn Outlook), and my brother's Accord (2007) is black.



I'll be revising my car wash routine to use ONR, dual bucket, grid setup, with a Lake Country blue grout sponge.



Lighting will be T8 fluorescents, in the garage.



As far as the used cars, I want to get them to the best shape I physically can, on my own (versus hiring someone). Willing to invest in the materials and time, just need to find the right materials to invest in. I've read SO MANY articles and every article recommends something different in a slightly different order, so it gets ultra confusing.. I know that the car and the finish might require different materials to accomplish the task, which makes it even harder for the hobbyist to make the right decisions without burning too much money.
 
DatacomGuy said:
Thanks for the help!!



All three are dark. The new car is "dark slate" (2011 Altima). The wife's SUV is midnight blue (08 Saturn Outlook), and my brother's Accord (2007) is black...
Click to expand...



Ah, OK, then I won't urge you to overkill the decontamination; the clay oughta be fine.



I'll be revising my car wash routine to use ONR, dual bucket, grid setup, with a Lake Country blue grout sponge.
Click to expand...



See how that works for you. It's not the right approach for *me* but others like it.



Lighting will be T8 fluorescents, in the garage.
Click to expand...



I find fluorescents to be basically useless for swirl-spotting. OK for more serous defects and good for texture and gloss, but not right for most inspections. Heh heh, there's a reason (beyond energy efficiency) why they use 'em in showrooms; they hide swirls really well. Better think about halogens and/or incandescents and/or LED inspection lights. The idea is that you need "point-source" illumination for this particular task.



As far as the used cars, I want to get them to the best shape I physically can, on my own (versus hiring someone). Willing to invest in the materials and time, just need to find the right materials to invest in. I've read SO MANY articles and every article recommends something different in a slightly different order, so it gets ultra confusing.. I know that the car and the finish might require different materials to accomplish the task, which makes it even harder for the hobbyist to make the right decisions without burning too much money.
Click to expand...



Roger that, it *can* be overwhelming and I don't want to merely add to the confusion. Maybe the simplest thing would be for you to post what you're proposing to do/use and let us critique it before you spend any $. There are a lot of good approaches that'll all work fine, but there are some no-so-good ones as well that it's best to avoid.



Is that for the 6"? # 11605STDCRD
Click to expand...



Yeah, pretty sure that's it. The STDCRD just means it doesn't have the longer (and hence pricier) power cord.
 
Accumulator said:
See how that works for you. It's not the right approach for *me* but others like it.
Click to expand...



What is your recommendation for the actual wash?



Thanks for all your help. Keep it coming! I definitely will continue to read, and then i'll repost my proposed list of items to purchase, and see if we can fine-tune. I'm actually preparing a spreadsheet too, to keep it organized (thats my OCD for you)
 
Accumulator said:
-You really oughta buy a polisher, money well-spent with all those vehicles to care for; I'd get the Griot's Garage 6"
Click to expand...



Am also contemplating the purchase of a polisher and interested in why you suggest the GG with 6" backing plate as opposed to an XP with a 5" plate and 5.5" pads. I thought that the latter was easier to control and offered better correction with the smaller pads and plate. Do you also suggest the GG pads?? What is a good polish for a beginner to use for mild correction as both of my cars have been well cared for and are in pretty good shape swirl wise? Thanks for your thoughts!!!
 
Honestly, your definition of "polish" is basically all in ones which are not polishes... some may do some VERY mild polishing, but they don't do anything that will remove scratches. Someone may have said that already, but I didn't read the whole thread.



I like Menzerna's polishes because they last longer before breaking down than some others i've tried. Menzerna is also expensive as well, and i'm sure these guys here could give you great ideas for polishes that are much cheaper.



For the sealants... I have used, Duragloss 105 (very high candied look which I love but doesn't sheet water off very well at speed). Easy on and off, removes tar that your washing may not get off, and such since it has mild cleaners in it, but does it very well IMO.



Blackfire wet diamond : this give great gloss! I just tried it on my white Z which is the first time I had tried it on white and it looks very nice. It's SUPER SUPER slick and does get water off well at speed. Easy on and off and a little goes a long way... not as durable as some others though... 4 or 5 months would be my guess, but in this heat maybe not even that long.



FK1000... I like the look, but recently I have found it to not be nearly as durable as I have seen in the past... don't know why. I applied 3 coats a few months ago and the hood was already pretty much unprotected as well as the roof... it's high heat stuff so I don't think that was it, and it could have been due to using to strong of a car wash which I do wash a lot. It's ok to put on and take off, not nearly as easy as the 2 above, but it also has some filling properties, is pretty slick and I think under the right circumstances it would be very durable... it also will remove small spots of tar and such.



Collinite 915... this isn't a sealant, but their "pretty wax" BUT I put it on the bumper of my car the same time I put the FK on the rest of the car and the 915 is still sheeting and beading quite well. Not nearly as easy to apply and remove as all the others... I let it dry for 8 minutes... that gives it just the time in needs (in my area of weather that is) to haze and remove, but if you leave it on for to long FORGET IT! You will need a QD to budge that stuff. It also doesn't clean tar or other minor spots that may get on the car... good filling properties though... a pretty pure carnauba wax considering it's 30.00 or under for a can that would do Lord knows how many cars. Overall, SUPER durable and gives the paint a very nice look.. I like it a lot, bugs and such also spray right off of the bumper if you give it a quick hose off after getting home from a night drive or just bad bug area.



1Z glanzwax.. good stuff. It lasts for a good 6 months if you don't wash your car much.. protects pretty well and looks nice. I wouldn't put it on my Z just because it's just good and not great, but it's easy to apply and remove and 1 coat is all you need. You can add more coats of it, but supposedly it's not needed.



Out of all of them the Duragloss 105 is very cheap and user friendly... you can go to their site and they'll ship you all their products or 1 for 5.00 flat... which you won't find anywhere else. Shipping is WAY to much these days, but fuel costs I suppose will do that to you. Anyway... good luck!
 
Great reply, thank you!



I'm liking Menzerna's stuff also. What do you think of Menzerna polish + blackfire for sealant combo?



I'm also starting to lean to the M105/M205 combo; just need to find the right sealant to couple with it. Blackfire? Duragloss? I'm assuming no wax is needed in addition, most times, right?



Also - Once the sealant "wears off", does the vehicle need to be repolished? Or can it be clayed, and resealed? Assuming no new damage (scratches, swirls, etc)..?
 
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