Need some motivation...

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ExplorerXLT95

New member
I have completely neglected my 2000 Ford Explorer XLT for about a year now.



The hood is decently oxidized, the interior glass is atrocious, the engine bay is incredibly dusty/dirty, and the wheels are kinda nasty too. As if that wasn't enough, it looks like my running boards are starting to rust in places!!!



I would love to spend all day Friday detailing the heck out of it, but for some reason I just can't find the motivation. I have access to a garage and I have all the tools necessary, but I'm just not feeling motivated to do it.



I suppose this would be my process, if I can get the motivation:



1) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (rinse and leave wet)

2) P21S Wheel Cleaner or Meg's Gold Class Instant Wheel Cleaner w/ horsehair brush

3) Meg's APC diluted for engine degreasing

4) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (rinse and leave wet)

5) Meg's Clay (hood at least; other areas as needed)

6) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (dry; free-flow method and Big Blue Towel)

7) Menzerna IP by PC w/ white pad (hood at least; other areas as needed)

8) Menzerna FPII by PC w/ white pad (whole vehicle)

9) Klasse AIO by PC w/ white pad (whole vehicle)

10) Klasse HGSG by hand w/ MF pad (whole vehicle)

11) Plexus (all exterior plastics)

12) Stoner's Invisible Glass (all exterior glass/mirrors)

13) Rain-X (all exterior glass)

14) Meg's Endurance Tire Gel

15) Stoner's Invisible Glass (all interior glass)



Thoughts? Motivational speeches?
 
I generally believe that you have to motivate yourself, but I can see how you might feel overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of the whole project.



I'd try to whittle the job down to something that's not so daunting.



I wouldn't try to get it sealant-worthy after all that neglect, at least not now (and I use the Klasse twins on one of my vehicles).



I'd wash it and do a *VERY* quick/cursory engine degreasing..nothing "Autopian" (nothing "Autopian" at all about how I suggest you proceed but I really think you need to keep this whole thing practically doable and to me that means not overwhelming yourself).



I'd clay while washing, even if that means doing a half-@$$ed job with the clay.



If the wheels look like I bet they do you'll need something more potent for them (and media more aggressive than the BHB too).



I'd expect to need something a *LOT* more potent than the IP and FP combo to get it ready for the Klasse and that sounds like a ton of work to me. I'd use a completely different approach that's a whole lot easier and quicker:



I myself would recommend just doing the whole thing with 1Z Pasta Intensiv followed by 1Z Paint Polish. Or even *just* the 1z PP. I'd wait until the next week or so to wash it and then wax the whole thing with Collinite. *THEN* you could tackle one panel at a time if you want to get things better than that, but at least the whole vehicle would be looking sorta-OK and would be protected. Then wash it frequently so it doesn't start getting nasty again.



Note that the 1Z PP usually works fine on exterior plastics.



Then you could see about the runningboards.
 
Accumulator, how does the 1Z Paint Polish compare to the Pro Line High Gloss Polish? I know I could look it up on their web site, but I like your product descriptions better than theirs; yours are more accurate. :)



And to the OP: Here's a +1 to Accumulator's plan. You'll end up with great results with alot less work.
 
Accumulator said:
I'd wash it and do a *VERY* quick/cursory engine degreasing..nothing "Autopian" (nothing "Autopian" at all about how I suggest you proceed but I really think you need to keep this whole thing practically doable and to me that means not overwhelming yourself).



I'd clay while washing, even if that means doing a half-@$$ed job with the clay.



If the wheels look like I bet they do you'll need something more potent for them (and media more aggressive than the BHB too).



I'd expect to need something a *LOT* more potent than the IP and FP combo to get it ready for the Klasse and that sounds like a ton of work to me.
Click to expand...



SuperBee364 said:
And to the OP: Here's a +1 to Accumulator's plan. You'll end up with great results with alot less work.
Click to expand...



I'm trying to not buy more equipment/products at the moment, so the 1Z stuff is out. But perhaps I should modify my procedure as follows:



Day 1:

1) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (rinse and leave wet)

2) P21S Wheel Cleaner or Meg's Gold Class Instant Wheel Cleaner w/ horsehair brush

3) Meg's APC diluted for engine degreasing

4) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (rinse and leave wet)

5) Meg's Clay (hood at least; other areas as needed)

6) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (dry; free-flow method and Big Blue Towel)



Day 2:

1) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (dry; free-flow method and Big Blue Towel)

2) Menzerna IP by PC w/ white pad (hood at least; other areas as needed)

3) Menzerna FPII by PC w/ white pad (whole vehicle)

4) Klasse AIO by PC w/ white pad (whole vehicle)



Day 3:

1) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (dry; free-flow method and Big Blue Towel)

2) Klasse AIO by PC w/ white pad (whole vehicle)

3) Klasse HGSG by hand w/ MF pad (whole vehicle)



Day 4:

1) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (dry; free-flow method and Big Blue Towel)

2) Klasse HGSG by hand w/ MF pad (whole vehicle)

3) Plexus (all exterior plastics)



Day 5:

1) Wash w/ Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (dry; free-flow method and Big Blue Towel)

2) Pinnacle Souveran by hand w/ foam pad

3) Stoner's Invisible Glass (all exterior glass/mirrors)

4) Rain-X (all exterior glass)

5) Meg's Endurance Tire Gel

6) Stoner's Invisible Glass (all interior glass)



Sound better?
 
I would replace Rain-X with Klasse AIO, personally. Rain-X leaves a film that is nearly impossible to remove and it's a product *I* avoid at all costs.
 
ExplorerXLT95- I agree with SuperBee364, only do one coat of the AIO as the second is, IMO, a waste of time/effort.



I predict you'll need to use the IP on the whole thing, and more than once (more than thrice probably).



I wouldn't wash with the PowerWash+ that often, I'd use something milder for the between-steps washes.



I'd rather layer the KSG than top with Souveran, especially on something that's been tending to get neglected.



I'd just polish/Klasse the exterior plastic instead of using Plexus.



I too hate the RainX, but hey, if *you* like it that's what counts.



SuperBee364 said:
Accumulator, how does the 1Z Paint Polish compare to the Pro Line High Gloss Polish?
Click to expand...



Oh gee...that's tougher to answer that it seems like it oughta be :think:



I'd rank the PP as more aggressive, but not all that much. Remember that I couldn't get the HG to do correction the way *you* did, this might be a user-error/etc. sort of thing. The HG seems more like my older version of their Pro MP (only without the synthetic stuff that the Pro MP leaves behind) and I relegate both to post-correction work.



IMO what 1Z *really* needs s a waxless version of PP to slot between the Pasta Intensiv and the HG. I just use my old 3M PI-III RC/MG twins for that (it takes the RC 05933 to remove "oops, pressed too hard!" scratches from by-hand Pasta Intensiv :eek: ).



The 1z PP is easier to use (by non-rotary methods) though. It and the Metallic Polish with Wax are *still* my candidates for easiest-polishes-ever by a huge margin.
 
Accumulator said:
ExplorerXLT95- I agree with SuperBee364, only do one coat of the AIO as the second is, IMO, a waste of time/effort.



I predict you'll need to use the IP on the whole thing, and more than once (more than thrice probably).



I wouldn't wash with the PowerWash+ that often, I'd use something milder for the between-steps washes.



I'd rather layer the KSG than top with Souveran, especially on something that's been tending to get neglected.



I'd just polish/Klasse the exterior plastic instead of using Plexus.



I too hate the RainX, but hey, if *you* like it that's what counts.
Click to expand...



I figured 2 KAIO applications would absolutely, positively prep the surface for the KSG. I've always done this in the past, but I know it probably buys me little if anything. I'll give the KAIO x1 method a try.



The surface is more contaminated than scratched, so hopefully the use of the clay bar will cut me down to 1-2 applications of IP by PC w/ white pad. I assume that means I would follow with about 1-2 applications of FPII by PC w/ white pad to clean up?



I have the Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. I suppose the washes on Day 1 and Day 2 could be with Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ and the Day 3,4,5 washes could be with the Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo.



Yea, I guess I'll save the expensive carnauba topper for the BMW. The daily-driver SUV will get multiple layers of sealant.



Can you use BOTH of the Klasse twins on exterior plastics? If so, I might just do that. I would definitely start off with the Plexus as a "pre-cleaning" step though. I love that stuff. Makes plastics look great.



Actually, I'm getting kinda fed-up with Rain-X too. It's difficult to buff off. I will give the KAIO a try. Can this be followed up with KSG as well on glass?
 
I get motivated just by reading the forums more and more.



If I could make some recommendations, and I'm a new guy so no offense, I could just be wrong (and please correct me where I'm out of line):



+1 on KAIO 1 time.

Save time by holding off on the Rain-X. The Klasse twins will be as good or better and save time. Plus, the car has been thoroughly washed.

These 2 adjustments could save you time or you could move said saved time to an additional step with FPII and a lighter cut pad.



Day 2 looks like a bear.

IP 5.5" orange pad - whole car (not sure what size pad you're using, but the PC is weak, plus you mentioned the car has been neglected for a year)

FPII 5.5" white

I'd follow up the FPII with a second application using a lighter pad, blue 5.5" (for the jeweling effect).

IPA wipedown to ensure better bonding with the Klasse twins.

KAIO with the same color pad or lighter than the FPII.

Then I'd recommend applying KSG by PC to ensure the coat is very thin and even (or else it could be a pain to remove).



I'd be interested in a C&B. Seems like it'll be a great turnaround!

Good luck and again please correct me if anyone disagrees with my changes.
 
snowskate said:
+1 on KAIO 1 time.

Save time by holding off on the Rain-X. The Klasse twins will be as good or better and save time. Plus, the car has been thoroughly washed.

These 2 adjustments could save you time or you could move said saved time to an additional step with FPII and a lighter cut pad.
Click to expand...



I understand now and agree.



snowskate said:
Day 2 looks like a bear.

IP 5.5" orange pad - whole car (not sure what size pad you're using, but the PC is weak, plus you mentioned the car has been neglected for a year)

FPII 5.5" white

I'd follow up the FPII with a second application using a lighter pad, blue 5.5" (for the jeweling effect).
Click to expand...



I have older CMA (Lake Country?) 6.5" pads w/ flexible velcro backing plate. I have each of the following pad options:

a) Lambswool Pad (very heavy cut)

b) Yellow Compounding Pad (heavy cut)

c) White Polishing Pad (mild cut)

d) Black Glazing/Finessing Pad (no cut)

e) Red Finishing Pad (no cut)



How would you apply my pad array to what you suggested?



snowskate said:
IPA wipedown to ensure better bonding with the Klasse twins.

KAIO with the same color pad or lighter than the FPII.

Then I'd recommend applying KSG by PC to ensure the coat is very thin and even (or else it could be a pain to remove).
Click to expand...



Come to think of it, I have NEVER done an IPA wipedown when applying the Klasse twins. Wow, and here I thought I was a pretty decent detailer, yet forgetting a pretty basic step with sealants...



snowskate said:
I'd be interested in a C&B. Seems like it'll be a great turnaround!

Good luck and again please correct me if anyone disagrees with my changes.
Click to expand...



If I have the energy to take the pictures during this process (maybe I'll get the wife to do it, since she won't be seeing me very often), I'll try to at LEAST do it for the hood (easily the ugliest part of the car at the moment). I'll do my best!
 
ExplorerXLT95 said:
I have older CMA (Lake Country?) 6.5" pads w/ flexible velcro backing plate. I have each of the following pad options:

a) Lambswool Pad (very heavy cut)

b) Yellow Compounding Pad (heavy cut)

c) White Polishing Pad (mild cut)

d) Black Glazing/Finessing Pad (no cut)

e) Red Finishing Pad (no cut)



How would you apply my pad array to what you suggested?
Click to expand...





Anyone want to help out here?

since they are all 6.5, you might want to go heavier than normal since the PC will bog down easier. I'm unfamiliar with lambswool.

But I'd try yellow with IP, white with FPII first pass, and black with second pass.



And I think whether you post a C&B or not, it'll be such a difference that you'll want to document at least for yourself.
 
snowskate said:
Anyone want to help out here?

since they are all 6.5, you might want to go heavier than normal since the PC will bog down easier. I'm unfamiliar with lambswool.

But I'd try yellow with IP, white with FPII first pass, and black with second pass.



And I think whether you post a C&B or not, it'll be such a difference that you'll want to document at least for yourself.
Click to expand...



What about the pad for the KAIO? I've used white in the past before applying KSG w/ black.



I am going to enlist the help of a fellow detailer in the area. We're going to try to knock it out in 1 day. He also has a rotary which could speed the process up a bit. I figure 2 guys, 1 rotary, 2 PCs, plenty of pads, plenty of detailing products/supplies/equipment and we can probably knock it out in 1 full-day detail. Having someone else there will also mean that the likelihood of taking pics for C&B are greater.



Any further suggestions?
 
If it's motivation you need Sean, I'll see if 01Lowboy can enlist some of his girls to come by.



I think everyone has given you great advice. Either break it down and do parts on different days.



Let me know when your ready to do this. I have my products, pads and rotary ready!
 
I am not sure if you re talking about LC yellow pads, but if you re: NO yellow LC pads please! those are good to clean the stove they leave a lot of marks that are really hard to remove if orange is not enough go with PWF (purple wool foam) trust me on this one any body that used those will tell you the same.

GL with the car
 
Go over to the Click & Brag section of the forum. Jealousy will set in and you'll get motivated to attack your Explorer.



I find the Click & Brag forum downright inspiring.
 
zaxjax said:
If it's motivation you need Sean, I'll see if 01Lowboy can enlist some of his girls to come by.
Click to expand...



Um, yes please. :bounce



dbesins said:
I am not sure if you re talking about LC yellow pads, but if you re: NO yellow LC pads please! those are good to clean the stove they leave a lot of marks that are really hard to remove if orange is not enough go with PWF (purple wool foam) trust me on this one any body that used those will tell you the same.

GL with the car
Click to expand...



I used my yellow pad w/ FPII, followed by FPII w/ white pad, followed by AIO w/ white pad on my wife's 330ci and it *seemed* to turn out very well.



I have no orange or PWF pads.
 
ExplorerXLT95 said:
..I used my yellow pad w/ FPII, followed by FPII w/ white pad, followed by AIO w/ white pad on my wife's 330ci and it *seemed* to turn out very well.



I have no orange or PWF pads.
Click to expand...





Well, if it "seemed to turn out very well" in *your* eyes that's all that matters :xyxthumbs
 
ExplorerXLT95- It *does look good.



That yellow pad might've (must've?) been more gentle than the LC yellow. The idea behind the pad/product match-up is that FPII is a very mild product and can't take advantage of the more firm and open-pore nature of an aggressive pad. So an aggressive pad might instill marring (in and of itself) that the FPII won't polish away.



I'm guessing that you woulda seen problems like that had they occurred (which they probably woulda with the LS yellow).



For ultimate gloss (which you'll never see in a photo), try the FPII with a very gentle pad. I do think you'll notice the difference, I know that I usually do when I bother with an additional burnishing/jeweling step like that (even though it doesn't look necessary before I do it).
 
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