Need some help deciding between rotary and udm

S

silverstripes

New member
Hello,



I have read many, many threads over the past 6 months before I joined and I have come to the point where I am ready to step things up. I just used Zaino on the car and still see many swirls so im in need of some power. A local hardware store has the Makita rotary for 175, which is very tempting. But, I have also looked at the UDM which has gotten some great reviews. Now here is the problem. My car 2004 srt4 has alot of swirls. Black car+dirt roads= bad looking swirls. I dont live on those dirt roads anymore before someone asks, but I do want to get those swirls out. I have had some expirence with a Chicago rotary and I want to know what would be better in my situation. I cant decide, every time I read something about the two, I end up confused since every other persons opinon is different. I want something that is def going to work, and I want something that isnt going to take 5 hours to do on the hood alone. Some say the UDM can get out what a rotary can and some say other wise, please help with my decision if possible.





Thanks in advance,



Rob
 
silverstripes said:
Some say the UDM can get out what a rotary can and some say other wise, please help with my decision if possible.
Click to expand...





Easy decision if you've already experimented with a rotary. That's half the battle for alot of people looking for more power.
 
I think having both is very useful, however, if your car has severe swirling and/or harder paint, I vote rotary. The only problem with a rotary is hologramming, if you didnt have a PC it would force you to improve your technique.



PC/UDM's vibrate considerably, a cyclo is another option.
 
Another rotary vote. Zoomzoom has a great idea - get some "proper" training. DA's are great for learning and "touch-up" polishing, but take a long long time to get through deeper swirls...and DAs generally leave a slight haze on black vehicles (though not normally noticable unless you do a side by side comparison with a rotary).



Just keep it simple and slow. Even at the slowest possible speed setting, a rotary is going to work much faster than a DA, and at this speed is very very easy to use. If you can't find anyone to help you, go aroung to some body shops and pick up some scrap panels to practice on for confidence.



And as far as halograms are concerned, you won't get any if you use PO106FF, a soft pad, and minimal pressure.
 
man, I just can't stand using a PC to polish after learning how to use a rotary properly...they're just SOOOOO and make your hands tingle.



Although, it's OK for applying AIO polishes when little to no correction is needed. I actually used mine the other day to apply Klasse Sealant Glaze...worked out pretty well...but for heavy correction...agh. It's like downloading a C&B thread with a 56k.
 
Thanks for all of the fast responses. I figured that the rotary was going to win the battle. I live in Hobe Sound Fl. A guy that worked at a body shop taught me most of what I know. We have a car that I will warm up on first before I attack mine for the first time, so no worries on that. I just hope that they still have some in stock.



And, does anyone have a recommened site where I could get a packaged deal on some ccs pads and some product maybe?



Again, thanks for the help,



Rob
 
NSXTASY said:
I think having both is very useful, however, if your car has severe swirling and/or harder paint, I vote rotary. The only problem with a rotary is hologramming, if you didnt have a PC it would force you to improve your technique.



PC/UDM's vibrate considerably, a cyclo is another option.
Click to expand...



Once someone becomes proficient at a rotary (ie. can safely use a rotary), would they ever use a PC/UDM/Cyclo again? I guess maybe to spread LSP but would a proficient rotary user ever use a PC/UDM/Cyclo to polish again?
 
bert31 said:
Once someone becomes proficient at a rotary (ie. can safely use a rotary), would they ever use a PC/UDM/Cyclo again? I guess maybe to spread LSP but would a proficient rotary user ever use a PC/UDM/Cyclo to polish again?
Click to expand...



Delicate pieces, plastic parts, tight areas w/ 4in pad, AIO's, carpet scrubber. A PC will always be in my arsenal. But, sure, you can get along without one just fine. I can't stand using ROB to spread LSP's, doesnt make sense to me.
 
NSXTASY said:
Delicate pieces, plastic parts, tight areas w/ 4in pad, AIO's, carpet scrubber. A PC will always be in my arsenal. But, sure, you can get along without one just fine. I can't stand using ROB to spread LSP's, doesnt make sense to me.
Click to expand...



Is a rotary too agressive for AIO's? I just assumed either could be used for them.



I may have to buy a carpet scrubber for my UDM. So far a brush has done a fine jub though.



ROB?? Random Orbital Buffer? I can't think of anything else that could stand for. In other words, I guess you like to spread LSP by hand?
 
I hear that there is alot of people that prefer to spread lsp by hand? Does it make a difference? And, could you not just turn down the speed on a rotary to spread them?
 
Just bought it, 200 otd. Cant wait to get some pads! I thought that the makita went up to 6k rpms, this one says 3k, which I suppose is the right amount of speed. I must have been thinking about the UDM or something.... Anyway, anyone have a reliable source for a good combo kit of pads and maybe some menzerna? Or what ever would be good on black dodge paint..
 
Well I tried it out last night with the pad that came with it and some zpc, not a good combo, but did take out some deep scratches I had. Waiting on some referals to some good sites. I think I want to try some menzerna sip, and the 106ff.
 
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