Need some advice choosing a polish

Vintage said:
Hello again Superbee! I just order my 106ff and can't wait to try it! I had a question: Have you ever gone straight to the Vintage after 106ff? Or do I need to use the HD Cleanse first?
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Heyas, Vintage :)



As much as it pains me to say this, you should probably use the HD-Cleanse first. The Zymol tech support guy gave me a five minute spiel on the virtues of using it before Vintage, so now he has me brainwashed into thinking that HD-Cleanse is a must before an Estate Glaze. I must admit, I've been tempted to use FTG or RMG instead of HD-Cleanse, but I haven't tried it yet.
 
w.neurauter said:
So just to tripple check before I order anything. Now that we know I'm using a rotary and not a pc does the same hold true for the SIP and 106ff being that much better than the optimum stuff? I'm having a tough time wrapping my head around $50 for 32oz of polish. I do tust you however and if you say it's worth it I'll give it a shot.

Thanks
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Well, I gotta be honest... You will have much, much better results with the Optimum products using a rotary than with a PC. But, SIP and 106ff will also give much better results with a rotary than PC, too.



Stepping up to a rotary with the optimum products will most likely work for you.



Also, SIP isn't the easiest stuff in the world to use with a foam pad on a rotary. It has a tendency to clog the pad and spit like crazy. Using very small amounts is key. It really does have kind of a steep learning curve on a rotary w/foam. I absolutely love it with wool, though. I'm hoping Rydawg will chime in with his experiences with SIP and foam, too. He'll probably tell you something very similar.



If this is going to be your very first time using a rotary, I think you might want to stay with the Optimum line. Or you could use the Optimum for correction, and the 106ff for final polish. 106ff is easy to use no matter how you apply it.
 
superbee,



Thanks for the reply and the honesty. I'm sure that someone with more skill than I at the rotary would be able to make the zpc work. I'm not sure what it is about the stuff, I just couldn't get it to work as a lot of people have. Maybe I expect it to do too much and work it too long.



I'll wait to see if Rydawg chimes in, I'd like to hear what he has to say as well. Maybe I'll go with some optimum compound and the 106ff. We'll see, I change my mind every 10 seconds.



Thanks again for all the advice.
 
There was a Click and Brag not too long ago where someone used ZPC as their compound/intermediate/and final polish. All they did was change pads. I think they started out with a twisted wool for the heavy correction, then went to an orange LC foam, then a white LC foam. The correction they accomplished was a-mazing, as was the finish they obtained.



I think the key with ZPC is pad selection (of course), and working time. ZPC seems to break down very fast.
 
I remember that click and brag, that was on a buick I think. zpc does break down pretty fast so maybe I'm working it too long? Maybe I'll play around with it a bit more tomorrow.
 
I'd be willing to bet you are working it too long. Just can't imagine getting hazing with ZPC unless you're working it too long or your clear is very soft.
 
It was suggested in a forum thread that 4* pro line of mid and light polishes are overlooked but yield great results. So, I order one of each and can confirm that in my experiences they outperform Optimum and other polishes I have tried.

Very easy to use with a rotary or pc, easy to wipe off and can be worked for a period of time before hazing of product starts.



Very pleased and would recommend without reservation to anyone that has yet to try.
 
Hi NoBuff2tuff,



Thanks for the recommendation. I think I'm going to place an order this morning at AG for the SIP and 106ff. It's a ton of money for 2 polishes but if I'm going to spend the time on my car and a few other family members I might as well use the best. I've got a 6.5" regular LC orange and Blue pad for the rotary. Do you guys think that it would be a good idea to order a 6.5 CCS white or green LC pad to use with the SIP when the orange might be too tough? Thanks
 
I'd get a green LC foam pad. The green LC foam with the 106ff seems to work better at getting out the remaining compounding marks than the white LC foam does.
 
w.neurauter said:
superbee,



Thanks for the reply and the honesty. I'm sure that someone with more skill than I at the rotary would be able to make the zpc work. I'm not sure what it is about the stuff, I just couldn't get it to work as a lot of people have. Maybe I expect it to do too much and work it too long.



I'll wait to see if Rydawg chimes in, I'd like to hear what he has to say as well. Maybe I'll go with some optimum compound and the 106ff. We'll see, I change my mind every 10 seconds.



Thanks again for all the advice.
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Sorry I did not see this thread and have been very busy lately.



Some Ford blacks are a pain to deal with sometimes and certain polishes do not like the paint as it is very absorbant. I have had great luck along with excellent results with zpc polish, but some Ford paint needs lubrication to work the paint. Now GM paint loves zpc polish though as it is a harder high solid clear. ZPC polish also loves lower 1000-1400 rpms. I personally still love zpc on some cars as it gives a crisp and clean look with no oils.



I also have tons of experience with SIP and 106ff and by rotory they are the kings of polishes in my eyes. I rate SIP in the category as a medium polish that really likes to be worked as the pad does alot of the work and the accute superfine abrasives (cannot be felt by hand) work in harmony with the pad together removing mild scratches, oxidation, and swirls while deep cleansing the paint to a very deep and bold new look. SIP is much safer than most of the compounds and polishes out there and I know the description makes it sound like it is very potent stuff. Personally it is in a league of it's own and has no competion in safer deep cleansing. The only drawbacks are all the polishing oils left behind have to be removed and does not like the sun or the cold or damp weather. Also the best pad to use is the closed cell LC orange pad. Any other polish pad will make it clog up and spit easily along with hopping and jumping via rotary.



Follow this with 106ff with a white LC polish pad and the you should have a flawless finish and should not have ANY swirls or buffer trails at all.



Just make sure to really clean all the oils off very good. I use body shop prep solvent to clean my paint surface before lsp to ensure proper 100% bonding.



I know I make this sound easy being a master pro, but with a little experience you should have great results.



Hope this helps

Ryan
 
Hi Ryan,



Thanks for the reply and the advice, you are a great help. I'm glad you recommended the SIP and the 106ff as I just ordered both of them along with a white pad from autogeek yesterday. I've got some other cars to play with the ZPC so it won't go to waste. Can't wait to get the SIP and 106ff in.



Thank you all for the help, I'll be sure to post in the click and brag when I'm done
 
rydawg said:
Just make sure to really clean all the oils off very good. I use body shop prep solvent to clean my paint surface before lsp to ensure proper 100% bonding.



Hope this helps

Ryan
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Alot of people ask me why I do an IPA wipedown after polishing and before LSP. That's exactly why. It's really strange the way the SCR Menz polishes leave that oily stuff behind. I've always had pretty good luck getting it off with isopropyl, but I imagine a prep solvent would be even better. Do you use Dupont PrepSol, Ryan?
 
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