Need more cut than 105 and a MF cutting disc

Meguiars M105 is incredibly powerful using a Rotary, lots of pressure and perhaps no more than 1000 rpm, to allow the material to work through its finicky stage, apply a little moisture, then allow it to finish working all the way to almost nothing..

They key here is experience, and Pad Rotation with pressure, that only a Rotary can give.. It even finishes down pretty darn clear, smooth, and glossy..

I guess it might work with a D/A but it would have to be a smaller area and you need all the rotation you can get and the above years of testing method I use above..

Have never needed anything "Stronger" than this product and the Lake Country Purple Foam Wool Pads, on armor plate hard Airplane Paint, to get a really nice gloss and clarity...
Good luck !
Dan F
 
...the amount of clear remaining is] the next guys headache to deal with

What "next guy" if the current owner keeps it ;)

Heh heh, I'm sure you were just being facetious...not like any of us would ever do anything that'd be inadvisable (even if only in the long-term), right?

With me this is personal- had the rotary-wielding "detailer" who abused my '93 Audi for the original owner simply *LEFT IT ALONE* it'd be in nice shape, rather than needing a complete repaint that it'll never get due to overthinned clearcoat).
 
Meguiars M105 is incredibly powerful using a Rotary, lots of pressure and perhaps no more than 1000 rpm, to allow the material to work through its finicky stage, apply a little moisture, then allow it to finish working all the way to almost nothing..

When you say "apply a little moisture" , do you mean spray/mist some QD or even just water on the area as the machine is working it to help "lube" the work area? I've had M105 get all "finicky" on me and it's very annoying, so I'd like to try this out.
 
Migue -

Exactly !!!
I have been spritzing a little C/G Pad Conditioner, etc., on the pad for decades when the product (any product I use), and pad start to dry out..
Have found it to not hurt or alter anything to its detriment..
Instead, this allows the product and pad to work longer, the combination dries the added moisture out after a bit, and you can then determine if you want to go longer (spritz it again) or stop there and clean it off and see what you have..

Like I have said earlier, I just run it all down until the product is almost gone and very little left..
This saves much time cleaning it off and since there is very little left, there is less chance of scratching or doing anything that will not be good for the now getting corrected, or perfectly corrected finish..
The pad is your friend.. It will help clean up the work for you and all you have to do is wipe it off between passes, until it gets too saturated with gunk and you change it out for another clean pad..
Dan F
 
This car was already trashed with a rotary by a local car wash. I tried several different methods and techniques to yield the best results and the customer was very happy. I also give all my customers instructions on products and washing/drying to minimize swirls. I explained to the customer that every time the car is compounded clear is removed and you increase the chance of CC failure. I also offered a coating option too.
 
What "next guy" if the current owner keeps it ;)

Heh heh, I'm sure you were just being facetious...not like any of us would ever do anything that'd be inadvisable (even if only in the long-term), right?

With me this is personal- had the rotary-wielding "detailer" who abused my '93 Audi for the original owner simply *LEFT IT ALONE* it'd be in nice shape, rather than needing a complete repaint that it'll never get due to overthinned clearcoat).

Unless the car is rare I'm hitting it with both barrels i.e. whatever it takes

You only get 1 chance to make a first impression, right?
 
Trouble- Heh heh, guess this is another case where you can I can agree to disagree :) This one is a topic that my pal Barry Theal and I spar over all the time! (I swear Barry never saw a car that he didn't think needed wetsanded!)

Guess it's good that I'm not a Pro, I'd be constantly warning customers how they can only take off X microns over the life of the car. If my daily bread depended on it I might go ahead and hammer it if the customer made an informed decision.

Just FWIW, if a Pro told me that my paint measurements dictated restraint, *that* would make a good impression on *me*. If the vehicle were a leased Kia, I just might tell him to go ahead and "hit it like Trouble"!
 
I always measure paint thickness and look it over real carefully after a good wash and SM Arnold Claytowel using DODO Juice Born Slippy..

And it its thin, you have to determine how thin, how far, and what caused it.. Is it Uniformly thin, or just in spots, or what?? You need to know this..
And by the same token, if its extra thick, what happened there? Yeah, probably body work and repaint, so now the paint will act differently there..

Always keep my paint gauge in my pocket to measure while correcting to insure Im not removing very much..
My Clients are going to keep coming back every year, so I would be an idiot to remove it all year-1, right ?? :)
Knowing how much fun it is to prep a vehicle for painting - takes way, way, longer to do than the actual painting - I really dont want to create ANY headaches for anyone - especially the Client..
Dan F
 
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