Need M105 help please

R

RustyBumper

New member
Tonight I tried using 105 on the wifes car, using a orange pad.
Process:
1. Wash CGCWG
2. Clay w/Pinnacle
3. IPA wipedown of entire car (straight IPA)
4. Flex/105, speed 5 using med to heavy pressure
Pad was sprinkled with distilled water and primed with 105
5. Remove excess dust!!

I tried the orange pad but was not able to remove the etching completely. Should I step it up to a wool? By the time that I was done, it looked like I had driven through a snow storm!! lol

Here is a link, I appreciate any help you could please provide me with. Thanks, amigos!! http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu23/RustyBumper/M105%20dusting/

BTW, my hats off to those of you that detail for a living! My back is killing me!! :notworthy:
 
RustyBumper said:
BTW, my hats off to those of you that detail for a living! My back is killing me!! :notworthy:
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Haha...:D Oh yeah! It's a good workout isn't it!

As far as dust, I'd suggest that you cut down on the amount of M105 that you put on the pad. I use about 5-6 pea sized dots. I did a black Vette a couple weeks ago, there was almost no dust.
 
How long do I work the 105? I thought that you were supposed to work it until it broke down? I worked it until it almost became transparent. Is that too long? Should I have only worked it until it became hazey?

What pad should I use with the 205? White? Green?

I forgot to mention that the car is a 2002 Acura RSX and that I'm also using a Flex XC 3401 VRG. It's exactly the same as this one. http://www.lotpro.com/Themes/Default/cars/1377.jpg
 
I'm by no means an expert / experienced user of M105, having said tht the problem mybe using water to prime the pad.

Prime the pad by semi-saturating (80%) the pad with M105 and spread the abrasives uniformly. Keeping the pad flat while applying a constant / consistent pressure; thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact, when the initial polish has been expended replace with 5-6 small sized dots. It becomes similar to a piece of wet-sanding finishing paper and a sanding block (arguably the most precise linear abrasive method of levelling paint)

Keep the pad flat (like you would with a sanding block) while applying constant pressure, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding).
 
RustyBumper said:
How long do I work the 105? I thought that you were supposed to work it until it broke down? I worked it until it almost became transparent. Is that too long? Should I have only worked it until it became hazey?
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That's exactly the way I do it. Until it becomes transparent.

What pad should I use with the 205? White? Green?
Click to expand...

I use a LC 6.5" white with 205.
 
[How long do I work the 105? I thought that you were supposed to work it until it broke down? I worked it until it almost became transparent. Is that too long? Should I have only worked it until it became hazey?]

Mequiar?s Super Micro Abrasive Technology (SMAT) - that is used in these polishes (M105 Ultra Cut Compound 1200< grit CAS 10/10 and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish CAS 3/10) utilizes non-diminishing abrasives. Using a compound with a random orbital polisher requires a very different technique, pressure, pad selection, pad priming (with the compound) etc.

Non- Diminishing Abrasives Technology
A linear abrasive that require time and pressure - unlike diminishing abrasives, which require friction to enable the abrasives to 'break-down to obtain the best possible finish (and avoid holograms) non-diminishing abrasives react very differently. It will be as abrasive as you want it to be, time and pressure applied (linear abrasive) being its working criteria.

Linear abrasive polishes / compounds provides a constant cutting abrasive, as the abrasives remains uniform in size throughout the polishing process, so you need to check the surface often.

This type of compound / polish usually requires subsequent polishing step(s) to further refine the finish and to produce a shine

Cons - the lubricating oils dry out, thereby providing a shorter working time, producing more abrasive dust and the possibility of dry buffing
 
Thank you for the help, my friends. The two things that I learned so far from this endeavor are 1) either mist the panel or pad to minimize dusting and 2) try and keep the pad as clean as possible. Both of these are painful and frustrating lessons that I've had to learn today. While I was using 105, I remembered that someone mentioned to mist the panel. Not having a spray bottle (wife used both of my bottles without telling me) I decided to try and apply some water to the pad as best as possible. This helped reduce the dusting alot. In addition I also had to remove the pad twice to dip it in a bucket of snappy clean. Why did I do this? The dimples of the CCS pad were becoming clogged with product and I noticed that when this happened the pad would start to dust. Needless to say I lost alot of time by having to remove the pad from the machine, dip it by hand into the bucket and hand rinse it as well to remove any cleaning product left in the pad. I then also had to spin the pad and dry it out. I learned the hard way that by not doing so and applying the product to it, everything becomes a sloppy wet mess.

Now all I need to do is save up to get a pad washing system and buy some bottles on Monday.

As a polishing update, I noticed that I still had some very fine, light scratches (possibly left behind by the product) on the hood and attempted to get rid of them. I worked the 105 until it became hazey and wiped it off. To my surprise it worked!! With the exception of chips, one deep etching(which I was able to get rid of almost all of) and a small rust spot, the hood looks fantastic!! So far I've worked on the trunk, hood, left side and rear bumper with fantastic results. This is very hard work (not used to doing this yet) but the pay off is great and very satisfying.

Thanks for all of the help everyone. I'll try and post pictures once I'm done.
 
If you properly prime the pad, you should not need to mist the pad or panel with water. Also the flat pads work best.

When doing a full correction, I have 5 orange flat pads on hand. I like the CMA classic flat a lot when using the KBM w/ 105 or 205. After every other use, I brush the pad off and blow compressed air to get the pad clean again. Apply 3-4 dots of M105 or 205 and do the next area. If the pad just stops cutting, grap a new pad and prime.

Here is a good thread on priming with M105/205.
 
I'm finally done with the 105 process. Actually, I'm almost done. I'm about to do an IPA wipedown and roll the car outside for inspection. Hopefully most of the major defects that I wanted to remove will be gone.

Should I also wash the car or will the IPA suffice? Also, how long to I work the 205? Do I work it just as I did the 105? To the point where 105 became translucent? I'll be using 205 with a white CCS pad. Is this the right pad?

I finally got some spray bottles. I had the wife stop at the dollar store and get me some. These will work for now until I have time to buy some better ones.

As a side note, 105 does a pretty job on headlights. The headlights were starting to had and had some stains that would not come out with regular washing. 105 took most of them out. I'll also be following them up with 205 and sealing them as well. Maybe at the end of summer or beginning of fall I'll try the purple wool foam pad on them.
 
gmblack3 said:
If you properly prime the pad, you should not need to mist the pad or panel with water. Also the flat pads work best.

When doing a full correction, I have 5 orange flat pads on hand. I like the CMA classic flat a lot when using the KBM w/ 105 or 205. After every other use, I brush the pad off and blow compressed air to get the pad clean again. Apply 3-4 dots of M105 or 205 and do the next area. If the pad just stops cutting, grap a new pad and prime.

Here is a good thread on priming with M105/205.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info :notworthy:
 
Update

Finally got the car polished. I'll start off by saying that 105 required (at least for me) a huge learning curve. I learned that it definitely is not a low dusting formula and that sparying the panels is a must in order to combat dusting.
Second, 205 was alot more fun, easier and faster to use than 105. Finally, having the right equipment on hand makes a huge difference. As I polished today I was well prepared with 1) a spray bottle 2) a bucket to sit on to save my aching back 3) a nail brush which made cleaning the pad quick and easy.

I was really impressed with how nicely 205 finished. The result was a clear, deep mirror like finish that made the paint look new (except for the tons of chips in the hood). Even after wiping it down straight IPA the looks were awesome!! The neighbor commented on how good it looked. However, the greatest compliment and sense of satisfaction came from my wife when she came outside to get me for dinner. The first words out of her mouth were "WOW!! My car looks awesome!!" Man that really made me feel good. Her car was starting to look a little tattered, even though I was it on a regular basis.

As I rolled the car into the garage I used the center ceiling light to check my work. Everything was looking great until I inspected the rear pillars. They looked great when I looked at them straight on, however from an angle you can see swirls and other defects that I thought were gone. Talk about disappointment. I'm not sure why they didn't come out. Maybe the orange pad I was using wasn't enough? Perhaps I should have used the purple wool foam pad? Maybe I didn't work the 105 long enough or use enough pressure? Who knows? Maybe in a few weeks I'll try and chase them again. Hopefully I'll be able to get rid of them on the next try.

This was a great experience. I'm glad that I decided to go through with it and I can't thank everyone enough for the help that I've recieved. Thanks everyone! :thumbup:
 
RustyBumper said:
......., the greatest compliment and sense of satisfaction came from my wife when she came outside to get me for dinner. The first words out of her mouth were "WOW!! My car looks awesome!!" Man that really made me feel good. Her car was starting to look a little tattered, even though I was it on a regular basis. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

1. Your wife noticed.
2. She complimented your work!!!

What more could you ask for?!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
You need to invest into some more pads. I usually go through 6 to 8 pads when I do my PU and wife's Escape SUV. You may also consider using a different product like Menzerna Super IP or IP with an orange LC pad. That's if you don't think the M105 can't do the job before going to wool. I've used Menzerna to remove a lot of scratches on my wife's SUV amd my PU and at first time using I was amazed who the product worked with my PC. I didn't think a PC could remove 1200 grit scratches until I used this product. Good luck with M105 and wool. Just one more thing; don't use wool with a PC it's designed strictly for a rotary buffer. Make sure your flex is switched over to rotary before using it with wool.
 
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