Need help with scratch. Wet sand?

D

dd1101

New member
When I bought my new car I didn't notice the scratches on the hood, the dealer offered to fix it but I wanted to tackle them first. By touch they are hardly noticeable so I tackled with M205 and tangerine pad. Did nothing, then I tackled with LC microfiber pads and M205/105 combo. Still nothing to dramatic.

Is wet sanding the next logically step, or should I try M105 and 4inch cyan pad? I only detail my family cars so I rarely use compounds. How long should I work it and how many passes is normal? I dont have a PTG and I know Acura paint is super thin so wet sanding kinda scares me.


Any help would be great, last thing I want is the dealer taking a rotary to 45k car.







THe car is a 2013 Acura TL



My DA is the Megs GV if that helps.
 
must have a super hard clear coat dhaval. i take it that the scratch isn't so deep that you can feel the scratch with your fingernail ? i'm surprised the m105 with a microfiber pad didn't take it down. i'd just go at it with your 4" cyan pad with the m105 and don't be afraid to bear down on it, you're not going to damage anything. if you want to damage something, i just got my new makita rotary so come on down and we can burn right through that scratch in no time at all.(including the total clear, paint and primer coats that we also burn through at the same time :D)
 
Definitely measure the paint first. Some of the newer ones I'm seeing are too thin to wet sand. Be careful.
 
If you follow Tropicsteve's directions and it still doesn't remove the scratch I'd take it back to the dealer and ask them how they're going to fix it. Are they just going to work on the scratch or re-paint the panel completely? I agree with Mjlinane that the clear may be too thin to wet sand and if you go through the clear the dealer most likely won't repair what you've damaged. If you do go back to the dealer ask them to put additional clear on the panel.
 
Sorry I didn't post them with after m105

This was taken right now

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tropicsteve said:
must have a super hard clear coat dhaval. i take it that the scratch isn't so deep that you can feel the scratch with your fingernail ? i'm surprised the m105 with a microfiber pad didn't take it down. i'd just go at it with your 4" cyan pad with the m105 and don't be afraid to bear down on it, you're not going to damage anything. if you want to damage something, i just got my new makita rotary so come on down and we can burn right through that scratch in no time at all.(including the total clear, paint and primer coats that we also burn through at the same time :D)
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Lol I think I will stay away from the Makita. Yea this clear is harder than most Acuras I have encountered. My Acura I traded in I could have got that out by hand and my 105.

On speed six on my megs, do I press down to the point right before the pad stops spinning?


mjlinane said:
Definitely measure the paint first. Some of the newer ones I'm seeing are too thin to wet sand. Be careful.
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Hopefully I can meet up with Rich (rwright) soon, I believe he has a PTG that I can do some readings with.

Trouble said:
I have extra sanding discs I can mail you if you want
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Thanks for the offer I will let you know. Defiantly appreciate the generosity.:autopia:
 
dd1101 said:
Lol I think I will stay away from the Makita. Yea this clear is harder than most Acuras I have encountered. My Acura I traded in I could have got that out by hand and my 105.

"On speed six on my megs, do I press down to the point right before the pad stops spinning?"

yes dhaval, bear down but the pad must still spin. if the m105 and 4" cyan pad doesn't take that out, it must be deeper than you think. can your fingernail catch the edge of the scratch?
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Most definitely if you are going to do any sanding always measure. As it has been said that OEM clears are so thin that there is little room for error. From what I can see those do look deeper than the appear. If the M105 doesn't work then maybe damp sanding would be in order but thats only after thickness is checked.

If you have to go the sanding I would stay to the higher lend of the grit since you are going to be working on an OEM clear. I would hate to see a fast burn though and see you have to get a repaint.
 
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