Need help with Klasse AIO, what am I doing wrong?

B

brig2221

New member
I recently purchased a brand new Black Honda Accord, and performed my first detail about 2-3 weeks ago by doing this:



Wash

Clay

Klasse AIO

P21S Carnauba Wax



I thought the car looked excellent when I was done. Well, fast forward two weeks until today. I had a rock hit the hood of my car this week and was not able to get the full extent of the damage until today after I scrubbed the car down (it has been raining all week in the D/FW area).



The scratch left by the rock was god awful and went all the way down to the metal on one scratch. What I found even more disturbing than the scratch however was the haze that was aparrent in my paint when in direct sunlight. It looked AWFUL. I was so frustrated, especially after I had spent the last 1-2 hours cleaning the car and all of the work that I put into it before.



Here it a pic of the scratch along with the hazing I am referring to:



DSC00001.jpg




Well, I decided to go ahead and apply some Klasse AIO to the entire hood of my car to try and clean the paint (especially around the scratches) to see what I was looking at. I used very little product, and then proceeded to buff the heck out of it with a Microfiber towel. In the shade of my garage it looked perfect. Well, I pulled it out into my driveway under direct sunlight and there was HAZE EVERYWHERE!!!!



I know Klasse AIO is excellent from everything that I hear, but I can't seem to apply and remove the product without leaving a HAZE EVERYWHERE. 10 to 1 the haze I was seeing on my car this morning was from my original Klasse AIO application a few weeks ago.



What am I doing wrong???? How do you cleanly apply and remove this stuff???
 
Tell us how you are using AIO. How much product are you using, how big of an area do you polish at a time, that kind of stuff. We can figure it out from there.



Also, how are you washing your car?
 
brig2221,





I may be wrong here but I'm pretty sure what you are seeing is micromarring from the removal of the AIO rather than product haze.



The reason I say this is I own an Acura TL that is the same color and I can tell you from experience that the paint is EXTREMELY soft. If you don't use a VERY soft towel for wax / polish removal you'll get "straight line" marring and from the pic that's exactly what it looks like to me.
 
roybiggens,



I have heard that Honda/Acura paint is very soft. That said, the first time I buffed everything out when I did my detail a few weeks back, I used a baby diaper, bought it from a detail website, soft as can be. This second application, I used a 70/30 microfiber detailing towel from Pakshack, very very soft, yet I still get that hazing, micromarring, whatever you want to call it in spades.



J Dookie,



Here is the thing. I lubricate my applicator (terry cloth) with a little QD prior to putting the AIO on. I put about a dime size of the product on, and then proceed to rub it in.



I read everywhere that a little of this stuff goes A LONG WAY. I am having a hard time believing this as when I apply my pad to the paint to start and spread the AIO, it comes off onto the paint pretty quickly, and doesn't spread very evenly or easily. Then it seems not but 2 seconds later that it starts to harden up and produce a white pasty residue.



I proceed to still try and spread it out as best I can with my applicator using a lot of weight/force and rub until I believe it has broken down. I then remove with a mircrofiber towel and get HAZE EVERYWHERE!



As I said above, I used a baby cloth diaper last time and the hazing was kind of bad. This time I used a fairly expensive microfiber towel specifically advertised as a detailing towel, soft as can be, and get EVEN WORSE hazing/micromaring, whatever you want to call it.



Help, lol!!!
 
In my opinion, you aren't breaking down the polish enough. The haze you are seeing is basically being induced by your process.



I highly suggest getting a PC because detailing by hand just doesn't cut it. Since you don't have a PC we can only do what we can. First, the terry cloth applicator has to go. You are marring your finish just as fast as you are polishing it by rubbing dried up polish into your paint with a terry pad. I would use a mf pad, foam pad, or one of those really cool foam polishing buddy things that helps you maintain even pressure. I will see if I can dig up a link to one for you.



Also, the qd isn't really needed. I find combining qd's with polishes makes matters worse instead of better. People spritz their pads with qd or water when using machine polishers to minimize dry buffing, but when polishing by hand, it easy enough to get the applicator loaded with the correct amount of product way before any damage is done.



So, my advice is to get a better applicator. Dont use terry cloth of any kind on your paint if you can help it, and never grind in dried up polish. Try working a very small area at a time, working the polish in.
 
"...and then proceeded to buff the heck out of it with a Microfiber towel" +

"I buffed everything out when I did my detail a few weeks back, I used a baby diaper" =

haze and swirls



AIO is a great chemical cleaner but will not correct hazing and swirls.

also the only way to get rid of the problems you have made is to machine polish

or you could hide it with a glaze!



FYI: I have never had a white pasty residue from AIO
 
Brig,



I'm with BigJim on this one, you'll need some machine polishing to get the surface free of marring.



If you have the means I highly recommend getting a PC and a few polishing pads. Then use something like Menzerna FPII or Optimum Polish two or three times a year and seal it with a good LSP. To tell you the truth I haven't really found K-AIO to be very helpful on my current black car. It simply doesn't have enough polish in it to get rid of minor marring.
 
Well,



I do have a PC 7424 sitting here right next to me, but don't have any pads or compound to speak of. However, I did order the Edge 6" pads last week along with Poorboys SSR2.5.



I also made the decision to hire a professional detailer to "restore" my exterior paint. I could probably do it myself when I get everything in, but I would rather have a pro do it right the first time which will hopefully last for at least 6 months, while I toy around with my PC and technique on my wife's car.



By the time my new car needs polishing again, I hope to be a pro at the PC.



I definitely see the wisdom in using a mircofiber or foam pad for the Klasse AIO application along with working smaller areas. Thing is, I keep reading everywhere that a little bit goes a long way, so when I apply like a dime size of the product onto my pad, I read everwhere that it should be able to do half of my hood, and there is NO WAY that is possible given how that stuff goes onto the paint and literally dries and harden immediately. Also, if I applied it in very small areas, I think it would take 4+ hours to do my entire car by hand, no joking!



Anyhow, I am done with Klasse AIO for awhile, but I still would love to learn how to use it as I think it is a great product when used properly.
 
brig2221 said:
Well,



I do have a PC 7424 sitting here right next to me, but don't have any pads or compound to speak of. However, I did order the Edge 6" pads last week along with Poorboys SSR2.5.



I also made the decision to hire a professional detailer to "restore" my exterior paint. I could probably do it myself when I get everything in, but I would rather have a pro do it right the first time which will hopefully last for at least 6 months, while I toy around with my PC and technique on my wife's car.



By the time my new car needs polishing again, I hope to be a pro at the PC.



I definitely see the wisdom in using a mircofiber or foam pad for the Klasse AIO application along with working smaller areas. Thing is, I keep reading everywhere that a little bit goes a long way, so when I apply like a dime size of the product onto my pad, I read everwhere that it should be able to do half of my hood, and there is NO WAY that is possible given how that stuff goes onto the paint and literally dries and harden immediately. Also, if I applied it in very small areas, I think it would take 4+ hours to do my entire car by hand, no joking!



Anyhow, I am done with Klasse AIO for awhile, but I still would love to learn how to use it as I think it is a great product when used properly.
Click to expand...





Is your cloth copletetly dry when you apply the AIO.

When I use it I keep a spray bottle with me and spray the cloth a couple of times then pour the AIO on the cloth and them apply to paint. I think the directions say to apply with a DAMP cloth.



I remember this is what I did when I first baught it. I used a dry cloth and was like "This stuff sucks!!!!!) then I saw the cloth was supposed to be wet when applying. It made it a lot easier. I don't think you have to rub to hard either when the cloth is wet.

I actually just cleaned a set of wheels with the AIO today.
 
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