Name your top three finishing/jeweling polishes.

D

Don R

New member
1. Menzerna Super Finish Plus (SF-3800). Almost no dusting and great shine

2. CarPro Reflect. Super easy wipe on/ wipe off and great shine.

3. Rupes Diamond Ultra Shine. I think temp/humidity affects performance sometimes

Would like to give Scholl Concept S40 a try. Have read only great things about its finish.
 
This question about jeweling (or more correctly, "burnishing", as Accumulator points out) stems from a discussion from January of 2010 by Autopian All-Star, Barry Theal and his conversation with another All-Star, Kevin Brown. Some may consider it "than was then, this is now", but it is still interesting (AKA relevant) information.
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...vin-brown-barry-theal.html?highlight=jeweling

I asked the question in a thread from August of 2016 if anyone does jeweling anymore and what modern techniques they use to do this. https://www.autopia.org/forums/mach...-polishes-jeweling-burnishing.html?highlight=
No one replied, leaving me to think no one does this and/or no one cares to talk about this "extra" step in correction polishing.
(Or my personal hygiene was inadequate and no one wanted to associate with me that day!)

Thanks for the replies to this thread about the car-care products that you use for jeweling/burnishing.
 
Lonnie said:
Thanks for the replies to this thread about the car-care products that you use for jeweling/burnishing.
Click to expand...
Maybe it`s all just semantics but I don`t really consider it jeweling/burnishing but rather just trying to eek out a bit more gloss with the finest polish I can find that actually produces a noticeable effect after using a more `standard` polish like M205 and the like. Too be honest, I could never really notice much of a difference using Menzerna PO85RD/3800. S40 works best for me on soft paint, Angelwax Rdemption had the most cut while leaving a more refined finish and Rupes Diamond seems to work best on softer paints as well.

All in the opinion of someone who still has to work somewhat less than efficiently to achieve desired results.
 
Leaving aside all my usual comments about burnishing...the Finish Polishes I use give me a nicer final finish than M205, but I don`t think either of my choices are made any more:

-HD Polish
-1Z Hi-Gloss

Both of those improve upon M205 for me. Whether what I`m doing qualifies as burnishing or not, I dunno...same boat as BudgetPlan1 I guess.

I suppose if I used M205 to refine what my compounds leave, and then follow that with one of the above, that`d be burnishing in the conventional sense. But hey, for the most part, I`m not polishing *at all* any more.
 
I haven’t polished my own vehicles in ten years so I’m in the same boat as Accumulator. I only had to spot polish one time and M101 by hand worked out well.
 
3800
Reflect
Diamond

Probably in that order. Saying that, I normally just use Essence after compounding and then coat. I understand the abrasives in Reflect are the same as in Essence. Essence has made me lazy. The results are just so good.
 
From this small sample size it seems like so far Menz 3800, CarPro Reflect, and Scholl S40 are at the top with Rupes Diamond still in there
 
A good question would be what pad, machine, speed for finishing/jeweling. Probably get some way different ideas. Jeweling is an interesting topic, but too time consuming to be practiced regularly.
 
Still using my PO85RD. Love that stuff and still have enough to last me ten more years if it doesn`t dry up or go bad.
 
Griots Perfecting Cream
Polish Angel Master Final Polish II
Gyeon Primer

I own (but have yet to try) P&S / Renny Doyle Double Black Envy Jeweling Polish which I’m looking forward to test.
 
IMO it`s an awfully fine line...and maybe just a matter of semantics...between "burnishing" and "Finish Polishing".

If I go from M101 to HD Polish, it`s merely Finish Polishing. But if I do M101, then M205, and *then* HD Polish/[whatever] I bet many would say it`s Burnishing.

MY definition of Burnishing/Jeweling = Polishing beyond the removal of visible imperfections to increase the gloss. M205 leaves my paints (micro)marring-free, but they don`t look as nice as they do when I finish with the HD/1Z. I`m "improving on perfection", so that`s burnishing. But what`s the *REAL* diff between that and just going straight from compound to final polish? No diff at all IMO.

And yeah, I suppose that a(nother) final polishing after the HD with, say...PO85rd..might ramp it up in the eyes of a glossmeter, and maybe in the eyes of some other Detailer, but if I can`t see a diff I`m not gonna bother.

I guess some might say I *do* burnish a few of my vehicles, as I follow the HD Polish with 1Z Pro Metallic Polish or their WaxPolishSoft (both discontinued AFAIK, at least in the US). Those do contain abrasives and they do ramp up the look...BUT since they contain LSP-stuff (synthetic waxes or so they said) I figure it`s more of a LSPing than anything else, and I figure the abrasives primarily help make it easy to buff off.
 
Not to hijack this thread (when has that EVER stopped you, Captain Obvious!), can you do jeweling with a long-throw dual-action polisher (LT-DA), OR are the results "better" using an rotary polisher??
That SEEMS to be some of the discussion from the Barry Theal thread I linked. Like anything in polishing, its all about using the type of machine, pad choice, polishing (jeweling) formulation of the manufacturer (which IS what this thread is about), and technique and skill of the operator on the particular type and condition of the single-stage paint or clear coat. (Like I doubt here is any benefit to try to jewel Infinity self-healing clear-coat)

By the way, I was hoping Meguiar`s would come up with a jeweling polish M305, but the number was taken up by its Ultra Finishing Durable GLAZE. Not sure how this "fits" into the realm of jeweling. I do know that there is some thought that using M205 on a red LC Pad, rinsing it ,and then spinning it on a DA in a bucket to extract the excess water, and THEN using the residue on the pad to polish a paint/clear-coat was though to ACT as a jeweling process. Do not know if any of you Autopians have tried that technique. I have not
 
I’m happy to see PO85rd is still being used. It’s the last burnishing polish I bought and that was some time ago. I would think others came along and eclipsed it.
 
Lonnie- I can`t imagine the method you mentioned with M205 working for me since it`d still be the same abrasives, just fewer of `em.

People have used Glossmeters to prove that their rotary burnishing is superior. Whether anybody`s naked eyes would see the diff, let alone whether the user can finish out 100% hologram-free, is another matter. I do mine via Cyclo, which they (i.e., Rupes, who now owns Cyclo Toolmakers) consider a "long-throw".
 
When I posted this thread I knew that there are a lot of other factors that come into play such as pad, machine, machine speed, temp, humidity, etc.
I just wanted to keep it simple. Just kinda get a feel where the majority sits.
Plus I wanted to see how many are in favor of the Scholls S40 since I have heard so many favorable things about it.
 
Seems like Scholls Concept car-care chemicals have a few Autopians approval and recommendation in this forum. The only place I see it is available from is Car-Pro web site The Sky`s the Limit Car Care (Sorry no link due to forum rules). If anyone know of others, let us know. I wish we could talk PBMG into carrying that product line, but I am sure Scholls has its non-competing exclusive distributor(s?) network in the USA. Hey, what is ONE more??
 
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