n00b questions about first use of the PC 7424...

You need to polish to actually get rid of all of your swirls, and yes it is possible. An LSP just protects the paint and gives you the really nice shine and depth that everyone loves. If you want to cover up the last remaining swirls, you need to use a glaze.
 
You guys keep in mind that the PC is not a "cure all". Some swirls are just too hard to get rid of unless you are like certain PC masters at this site. Several passes just might not be enough to completely diminish the swirl marks, you just might need to make several more passes. My personal preference would be to keep going with the SSR 2.5... Optimum polish sure leaves a great finish, but its swirl mark removing capabilities do not match the hype.
 
bpfoley said:
It has taken me about 3 times out to really understand the PC7424 as well as watching a 2 hour video by Mike Phillips.
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Where might one obtain/download this video? Sounds like it'd be a good watch for this PC newbie...
 
Drew,

Do you have the link to that specific forum thread? (I tried a quick search but I couldn't find it that way)



Cheers,

Greg.
 
bpfoley said:
sometimes more than one application is needed, and slow down your movement- let the polish do its work.



The clarity will come later after you do an application of SSR1, SSR2.5 will leave some micromarring and hazing depending on pad bite- as it is the workhorse of the two.



Also, as the polish begins to near breakdown lighten the pressure. It has taken me about 3 times out to really understand the PC7424 as well as watching a 2 hour video by Mike Phillips. I have finally been able to get results that others on here post.
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Where is this video at?
 
Thanks for the link. (as it turns out, I'd stumbled on that recently anyway) Doh.



By the way, I found this thread: http://www.detailcity.org/forums/paint-cleaners-polishes-compounds-and-swirl-removers/18546-ssr1-vs-propolish.html in which they mention ProPolish removing the hazing from SSR1. So, perhaps the hazing I'm seeing with SSR1 is entirely normal, and I need to move to an even finer grade polish. (such as the ProPolish, which is still abrasive, but finer than SSR1)



Edit: well, according to the label on the Professional Polish, it is not abrasive, so I'm puzzled as to why that thread I referred to mentions abrasiveness.



Greg.
 
What pad are you using with SSR1? I recently (last week) used SSR1 with a white polishing pad to clean up dealer prep swirls and holograms. It eliminated the swirls and holograms and left a great surface ready for the LSP. I found that I needed to use alot for the first panel or 2, but then I was able to use just a few dabs.



Also make sure your pads are not caked with polish. If there is too much polish on the pad it will not work effectively.
 
Gaz said:
What pad are you using with SSR1? I recently (last week) used SSR1 with a white polishing pad to clean up dealer prep swirls and holograms. It eliminated the swirls and holograms and left a great surface ready for the LSP. I found that I needed to use alot for the first panel or 2, but then I was able to use just a few dabs.



Also make sure your pads are not caked with polish. If there is too much polish on the pad it will not work effectively.
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So far I've only used the blue (Edge) pad. According to the Edge web site, the white pad is for expertly finished surfaces, so it's entirely inappropriate for me. :grinno:



My pad hasn't been caked up. It may have had a bit too much water in it though.



Note that I'm not using a PC - I'm using a Bosch PEX400AE ROB. My supplier reckons this one works just about as well as the PC.



Thanks,

Greg.
 
Greg2 said:
So far I've only used the blue (Edge) pad. According to the Edge web site, the white pad is for expertly finished surfaces, so it's entirely inappropriate for me. :grinno:



My pad hasn't been caked up. It may have had a bit too much water in it though.



Thanks,

Greg.
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I thought I heard Poorboys needed ZERO water in the pad.
 
drew.haynes said:
I thought I heard Poorboys needed ZERO water in the pad.
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Yes, that seems to be the consensus. My supplier says that as long as water doesn't fling off the pad if it's spun on the machine, I should be ok. But generally, the drier the better, yes. The supplier also told me that he finds that the blue pad is also better for SSR2.5 (as opposed to the medium cutting green pad), so I'd like to be able to switch between 2.5 and 1 by washing the pad and quickly drying it, if possible. If not, I'll have to get another blue pad and dedicate each one to a particular grade.



Greg.

p.s I should be able to try some of the suggestions in this thread in about another 24 hours.
 
I've tried some SSR2.5 again, using a fresh pad, albeit the more aggressive green Edge pad. I'm still not getting anywhere - there is now significantly more hazing/swirling. My supplier says that even 2.5 alone, in expert hands, can produce a mirror finish, ready for the LSP.



I've decided to take my problem over to the thread which I initiated (here: http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73990 ) again, because it's not clear to me that my problem is the same as Drew's. I.e, I'm making a good panel bad, whereas Drew is trying to polish a panel which already has swirl marks. (right?) I'll still monitor this thread, though, of course, and will contribute where appropriate.



So, from now on I'll be over at the other thread, and I'll try to put some photos up. (I just had a quick go at taking some photos, but the swirls didn't show up at all, despite the fact that I can very easily seem them)



Something is very VERY wrong with what I'm doing I think. I really did not expect it all to be this difficult. :( I'm having very negative thoughts at the moment, like "it's not worth it - leave it to the pros". :)



Greg.
 
You can't get everything off your car's surface with a PC alone, with the exception of those with a lot of seat time. Even in extreme cases, many will result to the rotary since it's much easier to remove extreme cases of swirl marks and such, so long as you know how to use it.



My best advice is to just make several more passes with the products at hand (SSR 2.5 is sufficient). Yet, if the situation requires it, purchase SSR 3 but I do warn you that this stuff is pretty harsh. The polish itself is literally like a light sandpaper. Hope this helps.
 
Denzil said:
You can't get everything off your car's surface with a PC alone, with the exception of those with a lot of seat time. Even in extreme cases, many will result to the rotary since it's much easier to remove extreme cases of swirl marks and such, so long as you know how to use it.



My best advice is to just make several more passes with the products at hand (SSR 2.5 is sufficient). Yet, if the situation requires it, purchase SSR 3 but I do warn you that this stuff is pretty harsh. The polish itself is literally like a light sandpaper. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...



If this is to me, as I've said before, I'm polishing a panel which is already in very good condition. My polishing is making it worse.



Greg.
 
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