My washing regimen and foam gun use

Striker- Heh heh, don`t hold your breath waiting for internet pix of my cars/shop/etc. ;)

I use a 50:50 mix of Griot`s Car Wash and 3D Pink Car Soap, mixed up in a concentrate as per my (yeah, awfully long) post above. A lot of that is just habit/personal preference as the 3D by itself would work great and is inexpensive if bought in the 5 gallon bucket.
 
And I thought I had a problem --LOL

You can wash my car anytime.

Your routine is close to mine but I remove my watch, wedding band, and all my clothes so the finish does not get marred. I cover the x rated parts with a 9million GSM MF loin cloth ( im selling them on line if you PM me-cant post a link bc tos). Feels nice.

I learned about the foamgun from (the now-MIA) YoSteve.

It took me quite a while (countless washes over a long period of time...and I don`t mean "a few months") to get my routine squared away, but now I can`t imagine ever washing without it. I`ve probably tried *every* foamgun-centric approach imaginable (and I have quite the imagination ;) ).

I need to write this up properly some time, but here`s the thumbnail-sketch version:

(Regulars here might notice some changes if they suffer through reading the whole thing.)

I mix up gallons of shampoo concentrate at ~7oz. shampoo + enough water to make a gallon. I fill the foamgun with that (I keep extra foamgun canisters full of concentrate handy). (Note that this same concentrate works well for cleaning LSPed wheels and the wheelwells/undercarriage.) I use a *LOT* of this shampoo mix so I keep a few gallons in old shampoo jugs.

I use the three strongest foamgun settings, varying between them as conditions warrant.

This rate of shampoo consumption and water use will disqualify my approach for many people but isn`t a problem for me.

I find presoaking with the foamgun to be of limited value. I basically only do it so there`s shampoo mix on the panel before I touch it with anything, although the extended dwell-time probably contributes something.

IME, mechanical agitation is necessary to get things clean. I use a BHB to get the "big stuff" off, but when used properly that`s too gentle to get "road film" off so I usually follow up with a mitt.

I do at least two phases, both with constant spraying of foamgun output at the point of wash medium-to-paint contact. First I use a Boar`s Hair Brush ("BHB") then I follow up with a mitt. On *very* rare occasions I`ll do a Garry Dean Wash Method rinseless wash after the BHB step, but I usually don`t do that until I`ve also do the mitt step (if I do it at all). I often do all three.

The basic idea is "dislodge and flush"- the constant stream of foamgun output flushes the dirt away as soon as the wash medium dislodges it. That way very little dirt gets stuck in the BHB/mitt (which would drag it across the paint under pressure, causing marring). If a BHB or mitt is touching the paint, the foamgun is spraying its output at the point of contact.

One hand holds the foamgun, the other hand holds wash medium. They are moved in tandem so the foamgun is always spraying output at the point of wash medium-to-paint contact (and I try to move the foamgun so that it soaks the entire BHB, which is longer than a mitt). There`s an element of "rub stomach/pat head" involved, but it became second-nature after a few dozen washes.

Wash media are always moved in in straight, short, interrupted "jiggling" motions, *NEVER* long, sweeping motions. The straight motions keep any marring that does occur linear (and thus less obvious than elliptical/circular scratches are), short motions keep any marring short rather than long, and the interrupted jiggling motions make it easier for the foamgun output to flush the medium clean while in-use rather than allowing it to get loaded up with dirt.

Steps:

-Rinse vehicle off, preferably with pressure washer
-Spray foamgun output on panel(s)
-Dunk BHB in wash solution bucket
-Spray foamgun output onto BHB to further prime it with shampoo mix
-Move BHB across panel, while spraying foamgun output at point of BHB-to-paint contact
-Rinse panel (either with hose or with foamgun on "clear water" setting, which is also good for rinsing jambs/etc.)
-Inspect, repeat if panel still appears unclean
-Dunk washmitt in shampoo bucket and/or fill it with foamgun output
-Hold mitt shut at cuff and spray foamgun output on its outside to further prime it with shampoo mix
-Gently whisk across panel while spraying foamgun output at point of mitt-to-paint contact
-Stop and refill mitt if shampoo seeps out before I finish area being cleaned
-Rinse panel
-Inspect, repeat as needed

This is all *MUCH* easier when the foamgun`s pistol-grip is replaced with a 90° shutoff, which I operate with my thumb.

The foamgun will often/usually rinse the BHB clean while washing (perhaps because of my boosted water pressure, might not work for everybody), so I probably don`t need to dunk it in the rinse bucket (and the reprime it with shampoo mix) as much as I do. The mitts don`t rinse out as well as the BHB so I always rinse them in the bucket and reprime them, but this might also be unnecessary as the rinse bucket hardly *ever* has any dirt in it at the end of the wash. The shampoo bucket stays clean enough that I usually just replenish it rather than dump it out.

Not the right approach for everybody, but it`s virtually eliminated wash-induced marring for me; I basically don`t need to polish any more even on daily-drivers that get used hard year-round.
 
And I thought I had a problem --LOL

You can wash my car anytime.

Your routine is close to mine but I remove my watch, wedding band, and all my clothes so the finish does not get marred. I cover the x rated parts with a 9million GSM MF loin cloth ( im selling them on line if you PM me-cant post a link bc tos). Feels nice.

I actually laughed. Nicely done sir


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PA DETAILER- Man, you guys who can wash that way satisfactorily simply *kill* me...what I`d give...

In my current shop, I can`t even do the "flooding rinse" thing!

JSFM35X- Heh heh, that was good!

Yeah...big PIA every time I wash, but it`s what I gotta do :(

On a serious note, I wonder if anybody does wear a ring/watch/etc. when doing this stuff.
 
I`m with pa on this along with a two bucket method. I use a ton of water to rinse with a pressure washer then I hit it with the foam. More rinse. Hand wash. Done.

Even if some swirls were to happen, I guess they can always be corrected.


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I`m with pa on this along with a two bucket method. I use a ton of water to rinse with a pressure washer then I hit it with the foam. More rinse. Hand wash. Done.

If that works for you, then there you go.

FWIW, I find the pressure washer isn`t my preference for rinsing off shampoo. I prefer volume over pressure, but maybe that`s just due to either my wash method (tons of shampoo...) or the vehicles I`m doing. I do like using the pressure washer for the prewash rinse and/or for use with DI water.

Even if some swirls were to happen, I guess they can always be corrected.

Eh, I disagree 100%. I`m not gonna precipitate any paint/clearcoat removal if there`s any way I can prevent it. But again, that`s just me and I want the paint on my vehicles to last as long as I do and anyhow I simply hate doing correction.
 
I have never done correction on my DD which is 6 years old this year. I was able to keep the soft paint swirl free. :)
 
The Cadillac has some defects in too afraid to attempt to correct any further but to park the Honda along side it certainly is a feeling of accomplishment.
 
The Cadillac has some defects in too afraid to attempt to correct any further...
Well, IMO you`re wise to know when to say "when". I have marring on every vehicle (yeah, even have one RISS on the S8 that can sometimes catch my eye) that most Autopians would probably correct, but living with over-corrected vehicles has taught me a thing or two about (truly) long-term cosmetics.

IMO it`s one of those purely subjective things...as long as *you* are happy with it that`s all that matters; Life`s not a carshow despite the Curse of Autopia which insists that every vehicle has to be perfect ;)

Speaking of which..my good painter recently did a final touchup on the emerging-from-mothballs Jag that involved some buffing (mild Menzerna/Meg`s 8006/rotary), and despite his HIGH level of skill and decades of experience...he went a little too far and uncovered yet another area where the factory reshot part of it. "Lousy blend" doesn`t come close to describing what`s now visible on the LF fender but hey, it`s a 31YO Story Car from the dark days when Jaguar`s build-quality left a lot to be desired. Eh, what was awfully disappointing when "showroom new" (scare-quotes intentional!) is just "character" to me now that I`ve had it for so long.
 
Glad to hear you`ll be using the Jag again! I`m sure you might do one of your famous five hour washes on it if it calls for it!
 
Bill D- Well...the Jag`s about #4 in line and some of the ones ahead of it will take a while. At this point it`s definitely in *seriously* "before" condition having been stored/worked on by others for so many *years*. All my fault for not keeping closer tabs on in, but eh... priorities and all that. At least it`s back on-site where nothing else will happen to it. I`ve parked it so that I see its best side and it`s nice to have it around again.

And, heh heh...I don`t wash that one as quickly at the others.
 
It`s been about a week and a half since I washed the ST and it`s starting to drive me crazy. However my dealership does have a detailing bay that I may be able to use. NOW. I don`t wish to use their detailing tools other then their pressure washer.


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Personally I only find shampoos useful for lubrication during contact washing. Foaming (with a shampoo), then rinsing I find does little more than rinsing alone. However I am a fan prewash chemicals. This would be something like an APC that is higher detergency and low lubricity, a pure "cleaning" chemical that you would never consider using in your wash bucket. You would use it like this:

1. Wheels
2. Pressure rinse paint
3. Spray prewash (I prefer a garden sprayer over foaming)
4. Pressure rinse again
5. 2 bucket wash

I think this method is more popular in the UK than here in the US
 
That is a great point man and I would totally agree. I think the soap acts merely as a "cushion" between your hand/wash mit and the paint itself.

What would be a product that does something like this?

You would spray it on and hose it off then proceed with a traditional bucket wash ?


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Unless a vehicle is coated, I`d expect anything potent enough to do truly effective "touchless washing" will also be potent enough to strip any existing LSP.

There used to be a pre-wash/soak product called...oh, what was it?...PhaseII, think that`s it.. that was supposed to loosen the dirt the way people often expect a foaming to do. It did do that to some degree for me, and it was gentle enough on my LSPs, but I went through that one bottle pretty fast and never looked into getting more.

BUT...there does seem to be a *little* dirt-softening action from spraying my shampoo concentrate on (straight, not diluted via the foamgun) as I do when cleaning the wheels/wells/undercarriage, and it doesn`t seem to compromise my LSPs at all, so I guess I can argue this one from both sides of the fence, at least to some degree. Which is yet another reason why I seldom go farther than "that doesn`t work for me" when somebody posts how satisfied they are with [whatever doesn`t work for me].
 
That is a great point man and I would totally agree. I think the soap acts merely as a "cushion" between your hand/wash mit and the paint itself.

What would be a product that does something like this?

You would spray it on and hose it off then proceed with a traditional bucket wash ?


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Honestly I think you could get away with using any of the APC`s sold here mixed at their "general purpose" dilution. Ideally, you`d do what I posted above and rinse first to remove the dirt that will come off with water alone so you`re not "wasting" your prewash acting on this dirt. Then you`d spray the prewash and rinse again before the 2 bucket. However to be honest, unless I`m looking at a ridiculously thick layer of dirt or mud, I do what you said and just spray the prewash, rinse, then 2 bucket wash.

I will warn you though, many will suggest that doing this will strip/degrade your LSP. Will applying some dilute APC degrade your LSP more than water alone? Sure. But honestly I drive my car through the touchless wash a few times over the winter, and after my first bucket wash of the spring, I *still* have my sealant beading. I reapply the sealant then anyways so for me the point is moot.
 
Unless a vehicle is coated, I`d expect anything potent enough to do truly effective "touchless washing" will also be potent enough to strip any existing LSP.

There used to be a pre-wash/soak product called...oh, what was it?...PhaseII, think that`s it.. that was supposed to loosen the dirt the way people often expect a foaming to do. It did do that to some degree for me, and it was gentle enough on my LSPs, but I went through that one bottle pretty fast and never looked into getting more.

BUT...there does seem to be a *little* dirt-softening action from spraying my shampoo concentrate on (straight, not diluted via the foamgun) as I do when cleaning the wheels/wells/undercarriage, and it doesn`t seem to compromise my LSPs at all, so I guess I can argue this one from both sides of the fence, at least to some degree. Which is yet another reason why I seldom go farther than "that doesn`t work for me" when somebody posts how satisfied they are with [whatever doesn`t work for me].

Ah, but I`m not looking for a truly touchless wash. I`m looking for that "middle of the road" where I removed more dirt than water alone, but not enough to negate the need to follow up with the shampoo and mitt. (I`ll even argue that I would never towel dry a car after running it through a touchless car wash bay, even with their stronger chemicals)

You could equate your bhb/foam gun step to what I`m trying to accomplish with my prewash. In most circumstances, it`s just the first step of a multi step cleaning process. However I do think the bhb/foam gun method is superior for LSP longevity.

OP are you lost yet? :D
 
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