My TA with FinshKareUSA.com products *56K dont bother

TriPinTaZ

New member
WEll I bought their pro decontamination kit



Step one : dirt and soil remover

step two: Acid based iron and rust remover ( MUST BE CAREFUL ON this step) I also Clayed durign this step, which pretty much melts the clay bar.

step three: Neutraled car wash concentrate

step four: FK1 base Poly sealant & conditioner ( one coat )



I have 2 more steps to do after 24 hours

Step five will be : FK1 Pure Poly Sealant

Step six will be: FK1 Carnauba and polymere Pink Wax



Heres how it looks.



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Buick_guy said:
What the hell is with that modifications page?



What the hell is with that attitude?



When you race for cash, you don't want people knowing what you have done. Maybe one day when you're old enough to own a car, you'll understand.
 
Certainly a spectacular finish.



A little info about the surface/paint beforehand would be interesting.



Here we know that prep is 90% of the task... a 3 step chemical bath is all good, but there is much more to your story. You are invited to share.



Plus, it is a chance to take your post count into double digits.

Jim
 
MattZ28 said:
What the hell is with that attitude?



When you race for cash, you don't want people knowing what you have done. Maybe one day when you're old enough to own a car, you'll understand.



And I wasn't trying to have a attitude. I ment the monkey thing.:eek: heh, I looked I was like, wow, oh well, I understand.. There wasn't any pun intended.
 
How'd the 3 step system do? Better than claying? Wouldn't a regular Fall Out Remover work? Cool stuff :D
 
LOL well ok I forgot you guys are Crazy about detailing stuff ! Usually If I post in detail on other forums they have NO CLUE what I am talking about.



Ok here is goes



The paint job is 6 months old. Its a PURE white basecoat, blue pearl midcoat and clear coat final. The guys that did the paint job did an EXCELLENT job.



However I applied Zaino to my car 1 week after I got it back from the paint shop. Car looked great.....for a month. Then I noticed something with the help of MattZ28. The Zaino was GONE in a months time. 6 coats of Z5 ?? gone in a month ??



So I applied more Zaino and that lasted another month or maybe two. i dunno what it is this stuff just doesnt stick.



So then I realize I see micro rust spots on my PAINT !! my NEW PAINT ! now Im really pissed at Zaino WTF is this ? It pretected my paint about as good as a paper towel car cover.



SO here comes the clay bar, I clay the car all day long, this only removes 20% of the spots...lame....so I top it with S100 wax for the time being and seek an alternate method.



In comes the FK1 products, after talking to the guy on the phone I tell him what my paint hasnad he recomends the Pro decontaim kit because I already have signs of micro rust. the consumer kit doenst have the iron/rust contaim remover step, its more of a preventative system.



After exrpessing my concern to him about fear of using an acid on my car he assures me if i follow the steps exactly I will have nothing to worry about. Then I tell him I want my car to shine and we discuss a few items of his and I made my choice based on his opinions of the best way to get my paint to look how I want. I even said to him " you are not just selling me this stuff are you ?"

He assured me that I would most definatly be impressed, so $140 later I get 2 big boxes of stuff and he even threw in a couple of free products to try ( 2 free sheepskin wash mits, free 1 step swirl remover, car scent stuff), great customer service and great speed. Well, as I will explain next I was definatly satisfied with his products...



Heres how I did it,



I got out the pressure cleaner (1300 PSI) at FK1's recomendation.

-First

I washed the car like normal then dried it mostly

Then mixed the Dirt and Soil remover (step1) with 4 parts water and applied to the paint on one half of the car going over the car over and over keeping the surface wet with product. This is not a soap its a micture of chemicals and you must be careful with it and NEVER let it dry. So after doing one half the car and keeping wet for 7-10 minutes I used the pressure cleaner on the treated surface to rinse off. ( now for those who are thinking WHAT ?!!! Its onyl 1300 PSI and I set it so its sprays a wide fan and didnt put it close to the paint) repeated for 2nd half of car.



-Second

I used the acid based Iron/Rust remover on the spots where there was micro rust spots. I used the stuff like a clay lube and clayed the areas. This stuff is definatly potent, it was melting the clay bar and i squirted some on the ground and it started faoming up and acid cleaned the ground !!!:eek: but as promised when used correctly did nothing to harm my paint. After claying the small area for 2 minutes I used a terry towel and put some on the towel and wiped area over and over to keep wet with product for 5 minutes, then pressure cleaned it off. Did this same way to rest of areas that needed treatment. Basically all horizontal surfaces were treated. ( P.S. threw melted clay bar away lol ) This removed all the micro rust spots !!!!!:)





-Third

I used the Neutralizer Car wash, This is a neutral car wash that will not remove waxes or sealants and it also neutralizes all acids ( including step 2 ) FK1 said that I should use this car wash regularly with their waxes and sealants as it will not only neutralize polution/acid rain but will also not remove he sealants and waxes they sell.

I must say, this car wash concentrate is the best stuff I ahve ever used, the lubricity of this product is unlike any other soap I have tried. I liked it so much It will become my regular car wash concentrate, I gave my meguires stuff to my brother. I will be ordering this by the gallon. It only takes one ounce per 1 gallon of water to use. :up Ok, anyhow then I dried my car.



-Fourth

Step four is a poly sealant wipe which is to seal the surface from any future contamination. This is a BASE sealant and a conditioner forumlated to apply a strong base sealant coat for any future products you wish to apply. It also has polymere to enhance shine. As you see in the pics this sealant was the last step. Now after 24 hours you can begin applying the other goodies I bought. But just to make it clear the decontaim kit is a 4 STEP process and MUST be done all at once as I did today.



Now the next step will be to use the next stage of poly sealant. This is a sealant that can be layered and contains a higher content of polymere's to enhance the shine even further. FK1 said this will add depth to the shine of step 4. Then the final step he recomended to have a super glossy, deep, hard protective coat is the new Pink Wax product they have. He said it has the best of both worlds, the shine of Polymere and the Depth of carauba wax ( it contains both ). HE assured me I would be very happy with my cars finish after this. I also bought a quick poly wax which he recomended to use inbetween waxes to keep my finish looking freshly applied.



Now so far only after step 4 my car looks AWESOME ! He said 90 % of the people are happy with stopping at step 4. But I would never dare so he recomened the 3 products I just told you about. So far I am very happy and I am sure the next 2 steps will make the car look even better.



With all of this said, my paint job was 6 months old and it was amazing to see how the decontaim kit removed everything from my paints surface. The car had been glazed from the body shop and dawn never got it off so I had been applying Zaino onto this surface and it was not sticking. Step 1 in the decontaim kit removed this stuff and I cant even explain how fresh the paint looked after just this step. I am a very satisfied customer and I will be sure to post pics of my car after the next 2 steps.







P.S.....you wanted details, so here ya go:xyxthumbs
 
Buick_guy said:
And I wasn't trying to have a attitude. I ment the monkey thing.:eek: heh, I looked I was like, wow, oh well, I understand.. There wasn't any pun intended.



Oh, alright....I thought you were bashing him because his mods were hidden, lol.
 
SilvaBimma said:
How'd the 3 step system do? Better than claying? Wouldn't a regular Fall Out Remover work? Cool stuff :D



Claying doesnt compair to the FK1 decontaim kit in removing all surface contaiminates. Infact the claying only removed about 15-20% of mine and this is why I went the chemical route.



I still plan on using clay regularly as you DO NOT and SHOULD NOT chem bath your car regularly at all. I do not plan on using the decontaim kit ever again. Instead I will be preventative with sealant, wax, and clay bar to not allow this to happen to my paint again.



Iguess fall out remover would remove the fallout, but step one of the FK1 kit is also a blend of chemicals, not a soap. it contains alcohols, kerosene, mild acid, and a few other chemicals. It looks like milk and it removes all contaiminates from the paint. However it cannot remove micro rust spots because the rust is already there in the paint. So step 2 rust remover was made JUST for this. If your car does not have mirco rust spots then step 2 is not needed.
 
I have read up on the FK1 but could never find anyone who tired it - I guess he was a Meguiar who broke away and started his own company? -



A couple of questions - was it not too soon to zaino your car after the new paint job?



Any ideas as to why it was not sticking ? :lol



Did you need to wear gloves for any of the steps?



results are great!! I may just order a kit!
 
nice job. pictures and the write up are like whoa. ;) :D



and damn that's a lot of work. any idea as to how or what caused those rust spots? and got any more pictures to show off the blue pearl? thanks. :)



btw, love that 'modification' page! wouldn't you like to know! :D
 
check my webpage for pictures



go to www.tripintaz.com then click on pictures then click page 3.



as for the Zaino not lasting, I have no clue. But it doesnt last here in FL. Maybe our water contains too much chlorine and actually takes the zaino off. I heard Zaino has a weak spot for alkaline and our water down here definatly is high on the alkaline scale.
 
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