My SSR2.5/SSR1 Results

bsdsys_x86

bsdsys_x86

New member
Well, I finally got to use my products on my silver intrepid the other day and it turned out nice. Put my second coat of UPP on today and the third will go on tomorrow and I will post pics of the results. After I washed and clayed I went to the SSR2.5 and a LC 6" Orange Pad. It cleaned the paint up pretty well, but at night when I am able to look at my hood and the rest of the car in light, none of the swirls, surfaces scratches were removed. I followed up with SSR1 with a polishing pad of course. I was just wondering what I could have possibly done wrong? I am sure I applied enough product and I worked it in until pretty much gone, and wiped off immediately. Maybe I need the LC Yellow pad for this? Not sure... The end results are good, very happy, and can't wait to place my next order and try another combo of products but wasn't too happy with the swirl, scratch removal of the SSR2.5. Any comments or suggestions on this would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
Did you prime the pad with water? The SSRs are water based (this means no silicone/fillers) and a pad primed with water will prevent the diminishing abrasives from breaking down properly.

Did you make 1 pass or mulitple passes? Often times it will take more than one application to remove scratches and/or swirls.

I have had great success removing swirls with SSR 2.5 and an orange LC pad. It is possible that you may need a more agressive pad as you suggest though.
 
mtodde said:
Did you prime the pad with water? The SSRs are water based (this means no silicone/fillers) and a pad primed with water will prevent the diminishing abrasives from breaking down properly.

Did you make 1 pass or mulitple passes? Often times it will take more than one application to remove scratches and/or swirls.

I have had great success removing swirls with SSR 2.5 and an orange LC pad. It is possible that you may need a more agressive pad as you suggest though.
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No, I didn't prime the pad with water and I made many passes with the ssr2.5/orange pad. Maybe try another application? Which would kinda suck considering I just did two coats of UPP but that's ok. I want the best results I can get. Might order the yellow pad monday and give that a try if a couple more applications of the ssr don't work. I read from Poorboy that there is a good chance I will need to re-apply ssr2.5 with a polishing pad before moving to ssr1. maybe I will try re-apply with a little more ssr2.5 via orange pad, and do another application with the same pad and see what I come up with then if not happy then just order the yellow pad. thanks.
 
I seem to remember reading somewhere (here) that Steve (Poorboy) does not recommend misting the pad pad with water for the SSR line, he said that it makes the product dry out too quickly.
 
Some times it takes multiple SLOW passes to acheive the look you want.
It might also be that your clear is tough (I know it is on my Ford), so it may require a little more time spent with it.

Good luck and look forward to the pics
"J"
 
Appreciate the feedback guys. Jay you might be right, not sure though. I will be posting some pictures sometime this after-noon. I have to go to TN to clean a floor and will be taking them there before I head out. I'm going to leave the two coats of UPP on there, might put another on sence it doesn't take much product at all to apply it, and then after I see how well the UPP holds up I'm going to give the SSR's another shot and see what I can do with it. Durring the day, the paint IMHO looks wonderful, but at night with a little light on it, you can still see the scratches, but no swirl marks. I think I got rid of all of them. I was going to order some more products and I think the next combo I will be trying is Klasse AIO, SSR2.5 if still needed, but hopefully not, SSR1 with a finishing pad, PB's PwC, Clearkote VM, and EX-P. Wish I could find a site you guys recommend that I can get all of the products from and get a DC discount! lol. Would be nice. I can find all of the products I need at PAC but not VM. Thanks guys. Will post pics tonight. Oh, will the pictures be posted tonight? Read that uh, forgot who said, but someone else will be aproving the images before they get posted and might take awhile.
 
Wow, you people have so much good info to share it a never ending learning experience. I am trying to get some swirl marks out of my vehicle also so I just bought a PC 7424 and tried removing them with some Meguiars Fine Cut that I have had for awhile sitting around and had no luck. I just placed an order with Steve for some SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 which I am hoping will get rid of them, however my questions is that since I have done this I have not put anything else on the car thinking that I need to get rid of the swirls 1st is the wrong thing to do?, should I polish to protect until I get my order in and try to remove swirls again ??
 
bsdsys_x86 said:
I was going to order some more products and I think the next combo I will be trying is Klasse AIO, SSR2.5 if still needed, but hopefully not, SSR1 with a finishing pad, PB's PwC, Clearkote VM, and EX-P. Wish I could find a site you guys recommend that I can get all of the products from and get a DC discount! lol. Would be nice. I can find all of the products I need at PAC but not VM.
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It looks like you may have some redundant steps in your next combo plans. Klasse AIO, Poorboy's PwC, and Clearkote VM are somewhat similar products with slightly different looks. They can all be used as a base coat for LSPs. They can also all be used as chemical cleaners or one-step products. There isn't usually a need to use all 3 on the same car, especially if there is no oxidation involved.

BTW - Pakshak.com is the only vendor I know of that carries all the products you mentioned. Discounts are sometimes available to members of certain detailing forums. Specialtymotoring.com and Danase.com carry all of the products except Klasse.
 
awd330 said:
It looks like you may have some redundant steps in your next combo plans. Klasse AIO, Poorboy's PwC, and Clearkote VM are somewhat similar products with slightly different looks. They can all be used as a base coat for LSPs. They can also all be used as chemical cleaners or one-step products. There isn't usually a need to use all 3 on the same car, especially if there is no oxidation involved.

BTW - Pakshak.com is the only vendor I know of that carries all the products you mentioned. Discounts are sometimes available to members of certain detailing forums. Specialtymotoring.com and Danase.com carry all of the products except Klasse.
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Well, thanks for enforming me. Don't want to waste products. Not sure which one I will consider ordering but seen some silver cars with VM on them and it looked real good. The finish I got with the SSR2.5/SSR1, UPP and UGE is nice but want to go with something that will give a wetter look for my metallic silver paint. What would you recommend? Thanks
 
bsdsys_x86 said:
Well, thanks for enforming me. Don't want to waste products. Not sure which one I will consider ordering but seen some silver cars with VM on them and it looked real good. The finish I got with the SSR2.5/SSR1, UPP and UGE is nice but want to go with something that will give a wetter look for my metallic silver paint. What would you recommend? Thanks
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For a wet look with light metallic paint, I'd reach for one of the following combos -

Base coat: Clearkote VM, Poorboy's SSR1, or Menzerna FP II

Sealant: Poorboy's EX-P (2 coats)

Carnauba topper: Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax or Pinnacle Signature
 
ruazfast said:
Wow, you people have so much good info to share it a never ending learning experience. I am trying to get some swirl marks out of my vehicle also so I just bought a PC 7424 and tried removing them with some Meguiars Fine Cut that I have had for awhile sitting around and had no luck. I just placed an order with Steve for some SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 which I am hoping will get rid of them, however my questions is that since I have done this I have not put anything else on the car thinking that I need to get rid of the swirls 1st is the wrong thing to do?, should I polish to protect until I get my order in and try to remove swirls again ??
Click to expand...
I never had good luck with Meg's #2 and a PC either. Meg's #83 (DACP) is a better match with the PC, though my current favorite swirl remover is Poorboy's SSR2.5.

If your car will be exposed to the elements for more than a week or two, I'd recommend putting some type of protectant on it (a light duty wax should be fine) until you can resume your swirl removal process.
 
awd330 said:
I never had good luck with Meg's #2 and a PC either. Meg's #83 (DACP) is a better match with the PC, though my current favorite swirl remover is Poorboy's SSR2.5.

If your car will be exposed to the elements for more than a week or two, I'd recommend putting some type of protectant on it (a light duty wax should be fine) until you can resume your swirl removal process.
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Well I hope it will not be that long, Thanks for your help.
 
bsdsys_x86 said:
Durring the day, the paint IMHO looks wonderful, but at night with a little light on it, you can still see the scratches, but no swirl marks. I think I got rid of all of them.
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Sounds like you may need a different plan of attack. If your swirls are gone and there are some scratches that you see only under certain light, then the PC might not be the weapon of choice. Some scratches and paint defects are deeper than a PC can realistically remove and a rotary might be your only choice other than living with them or covering them:)
 
BTW, when making these passes with the PC, should you do a "figure 8" or just straight-horizontal strokes? Or something else ?
 
you should go back/forth, up/down, diagonal (a crosshatch pattern)
like this -- | \ or / , not a good picture but hopefully you get it.

Good luck,
"J"
 
Just a thought... When you do decide to re-attack the scratches, do one section only (ie-half of hood, trunk, etc) that way you can see if a process/product is giving you the results you're looking for without going over the whole car before finding out you need to do a little more work/change product/pad/etc.
Also, go s l o w l y. Many times a defect can be worked out if you have patience and focus on the panel at hand, rather than thinking "I gotta get this car done by supper!" Maybe it'll take you a couple days to get things looking the way you like. Don't be in a hurry.
 
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