My latest Craigslist find....

J

JCastro1085

New member
...a Makita 9227C listed for $120 and I talked the guy down to $80 and this thing is in mint condition!!! Original owner stated he never really used it except to polish his white Mustang but has gotten too old to be detailing anymore, is that a steal or what? Now as I have been asking Dave (dsms) exchanging PM's with him what do I need for this rotary? Pads recommendations, backing plates, tools to take on and off the backing plates??? All I got was the rotary did I need some kind of wrench like the PC does? Thanks in advance for all the advice Gentleman. Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure:



CIMG0016.jpg


CIMG0015.jpg


CIMG0012.jpg


CIMG0010.jpg


CIMG0004.jpg


CIMG0009.jpg


CIMG0007.jpg


CIMG0018.jpg


CIMG0005.jpg




I know I need to do a lot pf practicing first and learning the correct pad/product combo but what do u guys think? Im excited for spring to get here already :woot2:
 
softer pads and easier polishes will be your friend at first! Then step your game up with more aggressive combos...at least thats the safe way, but not the only way!
 
no wrench needed. press that black button and turn the pad and the backing plate will come off. i thought the same thing when i baught mine used.. it has a spindle lock. welcome to the rotary club! a whole different ball game and learning curve compared to the pc
 
Thanks for the info guys. From my understanding the rotary doesnt seem that difficult to use: keep a steady hand, very little to no pressure, always keep it moving (as it will burn through paint w/the heat generated), use least aggressive method always (referring to the pad/product combo) and thats pretty much it. It's not rocket science it just takes some practice.



Now toyotaguy.....when you say step up your game to more aggressive combos what are you talking about? Most of the people I see here use the same method M105 followed up by M205....so which aggressive method were you referring to? And do the pads really make a cutting difference, I mean in the end.....they're all foam (except the wool pads) right?
 
Good find JCastro1085! Make sure you upgrade that backing plate 1st and check the brushes. They are located on each side, under the little round black covers that have a Phillips head screwdriver recess. Unscrew 1 at a time and slowly remove the coil and rotate/turn it 180 degrees and pop it back in. I do this every now and then to insure proper wear and it also keeps the machine quiet.
 
David Fermani said:
Good find JCastro1085! Make sure you upgrade that backing plate 1st and check the brushes. They are located on each side, under the little round black covers that have a Phillips head screwdriver recess. Unscrew 1 at a time and slowly remove the coil and rotate/turn it 180 degrees and pop it back in. I do this every now and then to insure proper wear and it also keeps the machine quiet.
Click to expand...



Will do and thanks for the tips. To be quite honest with you this rotary surprised me because its really not loud at all! I was blown away when the original owner demonstrated it at 6 I was thinking this thing is going to be just a loud annoying machine, after watching countless videos on youtube about PC XP's and seeing how loud they are or when junkman2000 does his demo's with the PC's I've noticed they're very loud and this rotary is not! Perhaps he took really good care of it? His garage and home were pretty squared away so it wouldn't surprise me.



Now where could I find good quality backing plates and what sizes do I need? I'm thinking maybe a big one for the car and a small one for tight spaces like the license plate around or door trim.



I cannot wait to start using this thing!!!! You got to understand up until this point I have always done everything by hand and had great results but resulting in soars arms and now to be able to use a machine is going to give me 10x's the results so I'm stoked about it
 
Get a 2 3/4" backing plate and some 4" pads. They are great for spot polishing with a rotary!! Get a bunch of small pads because you'll go through a few on each job.



Also they are great for doing headlights!
 
ABQDetailer said:
Get a 2 3/4" backing plate and some 4" pads. They are great for spot polishing with a rotary!! Get a bunch of small pads because you'll go through a few on each job.



Also they are great for doing headlights!
Click to expand...



Ahh great tip! I was definetly looking forward to doing my headlights! After the restoration I've read people seal their headlight? Why seal the headlight if you already wetsanded all the contamination away?
 
JCastro1085 said:
Ahh great tip! I was definetly looking forward to doing my headlights! After the restoration I've read people seal their headlight? Why seal the headlight if you already wetsanded all the contamination away?
Click to expand...



Headlights will just fade again from UV exposure. You can seal them with wax or a sealant. Anything is better than nothing.



I know Scottswax mentioned using Opti-Coat on headlights but that option isn't avaliable to us non-professional types.
 
The wife bought me a Porter Cable XP for Christmas so it looks like I'll have the best of both worlds come this spring! I cannot wait.



As Autopia's Membership expands everyday, and every week I'm reading almost identical threads ("Just bought a PC what pads should I get?") I think it would be very helpful if a Moderator made a post and stickied it with the thread title along the lines "So you just picked up a PC, here are some Pads you should consider" that way it'll save remedial threads and it'll give the new Members a great reference instead of just visiting the vendors section here. Just a suggestion from a new member to all the Veterans...(if this has already been made then I must of missed it)
 
3M's Ultrafina polish and blue Ultrafina foam pad for a final polish :bigups . Very nearly impossible to leave behind holograms/hazing with this combo.



And to answer your question about foam pads all being the same, there is absolutely a difference in cut between different types of foam pads. Color cods changes between companies, but there are foam pads for compounding, polishing, finishing and a few half way in between pads. Wool pads generally have more cut than a foam compunding pad. If I were to run my hand across a foam finishing pad while the rotary is on, I could leave it there all day, if I were to touch a cutting pad it would burn like hell after a few seconds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top