My BMW M6 2006

I just use a quality mf towel. It seems the key with AIO no matter how it's applied is to use as small an amount as possible. If you use a PC, a finishing pad would probably be best. However, if you're trying to do swirl correction, it's probably better to use a true polish (instead of AIO, for example, with a polishing pad; it does not do much in terms of fixing scratches no matter what media is used).



Thanks for the Handi-Grip reference. I've never used that. Seems nice for applying wax.
 
Pennypacker said:
I just use a quality mf towel. It seems the key with AIO no matter how it's applied is to use as small an amount as possible. If you use a PC, a finishing pad would probably be best. However, if you're trying to do swirl correction, it's probably better to use a true polish (instead of AIO, for example, with a polishing pad; it does not do much in terms of fixing scratches no matter what media is used).



Thanks for the Handi-Grip reference. I've never used that. Seems nice for applying wax.



I bought 4 of those handy grip, they look cool but really

I am not going to use them any time soon :)



As for the a Polishing pad, did you or anyone tried the "White Pad" included

in the Sonus SFX Kit? and it is less aggressive than the yellow or orange one?

I forgot the color. So what I am asking is if the White pad is the least aggressive

Swirl Remover pad out of them all or is it the finishing pad with a true polish?



I been trying to find an answer for this one for a while now :secret
 
I'll chime in for a little info :)



You're correct to say that the white SFX pad is the least aggressive while the blue SFX is for finishing only (glazes or LSPs). I left the Sonus scene awhile back and happily went to Propel Pads simply because Sonus' line was too vague when it comes to pad grades (I prefer having an Orange Yellow Blue, Green/White and Grey rather than just a Yellow White and Blue).



As for AIO, I'm a PC fan for AIO and Hand-only for SG/Werkstatt AJ. Typically I'll use a light polishing pad for Prime/AIO and works like a charm.



Cheers and congrats on the car!
 
GMCloud27 said:
As for AIO, I'm a PC fan for AIO and Hand-only for SG/Werkstatt AJ. Typically I'll use a light polishing pad for Prime/AIO and works like a charm.



Cheers and congrats on the car!





thanks for the info And I understand what you mean about the Pads and how limited

in aggressivnes they are "only 3 grades"

Thats why I bought the circule polisher with allot of sets of pads for that reason.



you mnetioned SG, What is SG a glaze or a sealent or a wax???

what comapny makes it and whats the purpose of it???



Anyone's comment is appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Just finished detailing 2 cars yesterday

Started with washing with a foam gun first shampoo the car and rinse

and then shampoo again as I wash with the Mitt and rinsing it off with a rinse bucket,

The washing with a foam gun wasn't quick but it was surely fun and safe.

After finishing washing the wife’s car I applied AIO with a SFX White Pad.

didn't do anything else on her car because it was polished and waxed just last week...



My car I washed it with the same process but different washing Mitt "I used the more

expensive one :secret " I also applied Bug and Tar remover in every panel under neath

and the side of the car befor soaping it up, and then dried it parked in the garage and started applying

PS21 paste Wax By hand I kid you NOT! I went thru every panel with bare hands

and applied a thick amount of wax in every panel. took me at least 4 hours for this.



For some strange reason this guy came to my head

http://youtube.com/watch?v=PkmZveqyU5E&search=car%20detailing



Both cars took me 10 hours!!!!!!!! :faint:

I got home and passed out.

Anything I did wrong or did I miss some steps here or there?

please advice ! Thanks
 
Wow, I'm shocked to hear how long it took you for both cars! I was also curious on what drove you to doing the P21S by hand? The reason for applying by hand primarily is if the wax contains a high level of carnauba, which is harder then cement when pure. The heat from your hands (similar to "Mr. 10,000k Car Wash Man" (nickname here)) helps warm the wax for molding and the three waxes that come to mind are Victoria Concours Wax, Swissol, and Zymol Estate Glazes; To help save some time in the future, just use a foam wax applicator that can be purchased from any of the major detail vendors (this'll cut down waxing to about 45 minutes) Good job either way!!



Regarding SG, SG is made by Klasse and is their LSP sealant glaze. For sealants, the big names that come to mind are SG, AJ (which I enjoy using much more), EX-P, and the Zaino's System. If you need help knowing the cons and pros to sealants vs. waxes, let us know and many of us will do our best to help out.



Also, a warning for ya to know: I just reread your post and noticed that your wife's car was AIO'ed. AIO is in a sense, a paint cleaner and therefore removes residing wax and sealants. Because of this, her car should be topped with something (anything is better than just AIO). If you go sealants route, I typically recommend AIO then a Sealant because AIO tends to help "bond" with sealants (more specifically SG & AJ). If the wax route, go Vanilla Moose as a paint cleaner/prep for maintenance detailing (not polishing) and then a wax to top.



Hope this helps!
 
GMCloud27 said:
Wow, I'm shocked to hear how long it took you for both cars! I was also curious on what drove you to doing the P21S by hand? The reason for applying by hand primarily is if the wax contains a high level of carnauba, which is harder then cement when pure. The heat from your hands (similar to "Mr. 10,000k Car Wash Man" (nickname here)) helps warm the wax for molding and the three waxes that come to mind are Victoria Concours Wax, Swissol, and Zymol Estate Glazes; To help save some time in the future, just use a foam wax applicator that can be purchased from any of the major detail vendors (this'll cut down waxing to about 45 minutes) Good job either way!!



Regarding SG, SG is made by Klasse and is their LSP sealant glaze. For sealants, the big names that come to mind are SG, AJ (which I enjoy using much more), EX-P, and the Zaino's System. If you need help knowing the cons and pros to sealants vs. waxes, let us know and many of us will do our best to help out.



Also, a warning for ya to know: I just reread your post and noticed that your wife's car was AIO'ed. AIO is in a sense, a paint cleaner and therefore removes residing wax and sealants. Because of this, her car should be topped with something (anything is better than just AIO). If you go sealants route, I typically recommend AIO then a Sealant because AIO tends to help "bond" with sealants (more specifically SG & AJ). If the wax route, go Vanilla Moose as a paint cleaner/prep for maintenance detailing (not polishing) and then a wax to top.



Hope this helps!



WOW that is new I didn't know AIO needed a sealant on top of it or a wax!



If you need help knowing the cons and pros to sealants vs. waxes, let us know and many of us will do our best to help out.



That would be great if anyone could help on this one, is a sealant replaces glaze or wax?

and what is the intended need for SG? is it like a preparation for a wax on top or some else?

Also if you wax on regular bases, weekly or every 2 weeks do I need Sealants or and Glaze?



I know that polish is need for swirl removing and paint imperfection in general but

didn't get the point of sealant’s or glaze's



Thanks for the help guys so far, all of it been helpful! :thx
 
Harry Houdini said:
Thanks for the help guys so far, all of it been helpful! :thx

This thread sure makes one thing apparent. While a lot of folks here are helpful to the noobs, having an M6 really kicks it over the top!



Glad to see you're getting the advice you need, and congrats (!!!) on getting your dream car.

:woot2:
 
velobard said:
This thread sure makes one thing apparent. While a lot of folks here are helpful to the noobs, having an M6 really kicks it over the top!



Glad to see you're getting the advice you need, and congrats (!!!) on getting your dream car.

:woot2:



Thank You

Not allot of people have the luxury of owning such a car, even the once

with money as this car is sold 2 years before it came to the market, 99% of M6's are. :)



^

^

^
 
Here is a picture, I will take more pictures sunday in day time after spraying Z6 :)

I hope this works as this site dosen't take large pictures so I had to find a host.



t_=55079878
 
Harry Houdini said:
WOW that is new I didn't know AIO needed a sealant on top of it or a wax!







That would be great if anyone could help on this one, is a sealant replaces glaze or wax?

and what is the intended need for SG? is it like a preparation for a wax on top or some else?

Also if you wax on regular bases, weekly or every 2 weeks do I need Sealants or and Glaze?



I know that polish is need for swirl removing and paint imperfection in general but

didn't get the point of sealant’s or glaze's



Thanks for the help guys so far, all of it been helpful! :thx



Can anyone explaine this?

Thanks!
 
Alright, with the PDF sent, that'll help you break down the components of each area of detailing (Compounds - > Polish -> Pre-Wax Cleaner/Glaze - > LSP)



Here's a bit of a learning lesson for you that I hope will help clarify some things (and hopefully for anyone else viewing this that may be unsure); I'd love to have anyone correct me if I made a mistake anywhere and feel that it should be changed as I may explain something that doesn't come out clearly.

--------------------------



Assuming you've got the majority of prep work completed (Wash, Clay, Compound *If Needed*, Polish), you'll move on to the next step which is categorized by two areas:



Waxes or Sealants



Waxes are natural products which are Carnauba based. I won't go too much into the exact appearance details on this post but for those who do not mind durability and want excellent depth and wetness as opposed to lower depth but extreme gloss with sealants, I would use a Carnauba. However, acrylic sealants have become a favorite for many people due to their durability.



Sealants are synthetically made and behaves like a wax. Sealants have a much much higher durabilty level then that of a good wax (say 1 month +/- 2 weeks for waxes; 3-6 months *or more* for sealants). Common characteristics of sealants are high gloss but low depth (some people say it looks "plasticy") however, good sealants such as the acrylic-based Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett or Klasse SG provide nice depth with a very nice gloss. Zaino is kind of in its own little world and I won't go into detail on them... :) With that said, many people use sealants on their own cars and clients because it'll last a long time and look great the entire time. You just have to experiment with both types of LSPs and see what you prefer: the brilliant glow of a carnauba, or the show-car gloss of a sealant. I stress that this is somewhat said in generalities so there are some things that can be expanded on.



Pre-Wax Paint Cleaners are products used before applying your LSP. Glazes are kind of the same in a way because some glazes have mild abrasives/polishing agents in them making them a paint-cleaner and a glaze. A pure glaze is a product that only adds oils to your paint enhancing gloss and slickness and is typically used to give that extra "Wow!" to your car. If you are going the wax route, I'd recommend using ClearKote's Vanilla Moose however, with waxes, if you have done a full polish on the car, then VM is not really necessary and would recommend a pure glaze to add some slickness and gloss to the paint before waxing. If you're just doing a maintenance detail (Wash->Paint-Cleaner->Wax), then VM is recommended to help clean and prep your paint for waxing.



For sealants, it's a good thing to always include a paint-cleaner before applying a sealant regardless of it being a maintenance detail or full detail. The reason for this is that the cleaner will not only polish out micro-marring but will prep the paint to help it "bond" with the sealant better and to an extent, add more gloss. AIO is a nice product and this can be followed up by SG or AJ (or Zaino Z-2 Pro/Z-5 Pro but I'm going to leave that out) or even a wax if you want (doesn't hurt). Remember, AIO with nothing above it means you've got yourself a bare car and in need of protection! (Polishes with mild abrasives such as AIO or more abrasive products will strip remaining sealants and waxes on the car).



Hope all this helps a little :) Cheers HH
 
GMCloud27



Thanks allot for taking the time to explain this, I have also received your PM,

I can't stress how thankful I am for you to take the time for this explanation!

Cheers bud and Thanks again!
 
Any more thoughts on how to safely remove swirl marks with

minimal damage to the clearcoat with the products I have?

I have also just bought FPII & IP as will as VM and RMG with repair spot pads for PC
 
lightest pad and product combo you have and go up from there...I think you have the sonus kit so the polishing pad probably white, and I didn't see what swirl remover type products you have but start light and go from there on the white pad that should be enough for any damage inflicted in such a short time if they are "little" as you describe..might I add that I've used the SSR products, and now I just got the whole XMT package from autogeek and those products and combo's are so easy to pair and match and for me being somewhat new to defect removal it built my confidence quickly not to mention my wallet when my friends saw the results. :waxing:
 
I'd try FPII and white if its minor, I think FPII has some bite in it..then after that I guess you could move to IP if nec. but keep the white pad no "minor" corrections unless its an audi :) should require more than a white especially since your car is so new.
 
Thnaks,

Now should I try FPII and if that dosen't work should I try

IP with the same pad or it is recommended to change pads?

I have a pad sprayer but don't know if that could help in anyway?
 
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