Most aggressive product by hand?

T

trueblueblood

New member
Alright I recently got Some DACP and Swirl free polish, I also have 3M SMR and their fine cut compound. What is something else that is more aggressive than DACP or fine cut that I can use by hand? I have some hardwater spots/acid rain etching the center is not visible but you can see the edges of it in some spots Also if its a Meguiars or 3M product that would be awesome cause I can get this locally, I'm actually thinking about trying a touch of diamond cut but I want to know if anybody has run across this before:up Thanks
 
Diamond Cut by hand is difficult to break down completely by hand. You absolutely have to use enough effort to build heat on the paint and towel. Expect a heavy duty work out and you will need to follow with DACP.
 
Perhaps 3m Super Duty Rubbing Compund. This stuff looks and feels gritty! Be careful and take your time with it!
 
true blue blood said:
Any products you would reccomend Scott for those spots other than Diamond cut? Thanks:up
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Honestly, I wouldn't go more aggressive than DACP or #2 Fine Cut. I don't use much of 3Ms line so I don't have a suggestion from their product line.
 
Why not going for wet sanding?.



1)In my experience when 3M fine cut compound is not removing the defect I pass directly to 4000 grit sandpaper.



It´s more agresive but not too much if doing it carefully.



After that I use the 3M fine cut and yellow pad and check my job.

If OK I follow with 3M SMR or Sonax Polish and wax.



2) If the defect keeps on, (what happen to me very frecuently in my clients cars when heavy swirled by automatic brush car washes ), I go for 3M 3000 grit sandpaper. I wet sand with 3M 5mm orbital grinder at minimun speed (4000 rpm). The results are awsome!!



After that I use the 3M fine cut and yellow pad and check my job.

If OK I follow with 3M SMR or Sonax Polish and wax.





3)If the defect keeps on I jump to 2000 grit sand paper. Now by hand and very carefully. That´s the strongest in my arsenal.



After that I use the 3M fine cut and yellow pad and check my job.

If OK I follow with 3M SMR or Sonax Polish and wax.



If not OK! I get frustated by the time wasted and report my customer the defect is almost gone.



I hope this help.
 
I use a high speed buffer for compounding (yellow pad) and polishing (white pad) always under 1300 rpm.



3M orbital Grinder for wet sanding 4000 grit or 3000 grit



By hand for wet sanding 2000 grit



Cyclo for waxing





I still do not have a PC. Still considering the purchase.



What I have experienced is most cars are quite neglected so need extreme methods for nice finish. All of them never ever had any detail at all. So no problem to remove some clear.



Most products are design for car in good condition with minor scratches or soft swirled. Then Ok!!. I used to apply first the least agressive way.



Unfortunately most of my customers need XTREME methods. At the end all is about keep them happy.
 
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