More "wetness" questions ... Re: #7, #26, #81

imported_NHBFAN

New member
After seeing rjstaaf's fantastic results on his Mustang using #7 and #26 I was motivated to try it with my new Corolla since the color is similar.



I have #7, but opted for #81 since I've read it's more "clearcoat friendly" (as are all 80 series Meg's products) and easier to work with.



Also, I used #26 liquid since I already have it. I was very pleased with the results.



But now I have 2 questions:



1) Would using #26 paste make a big difference in the "wetness" over #26 liquid?



2) Are the oil contents of #7 vs #81 similar?
 
NHBFAN said:




1) Would using #26 paste make a big difference in the "wetness" over #26 liquid?



2) Are the oil contents of #7 vs #81 similar?



1) Probably not, but some of us think we see a *little* improvement in all respects when using the paste instead of the liquid. But the paste might be a little easier on the #81 due to its lower solvent content.



2) More oils in the #7, but since they don't soak into b/c the way they do with ss it's pretty much a moot point anyhow.
 
NHBFAN said:
Do you think #81 is a better choice for cc than #7?



Yeah. #3 works well too (even by hand) and so does #5, but it's sorta a different animal- it really *dries* and makes for a bit of dust when you take it off. Great for high-humidity conditions, though. They're all *very* similar, so just find out which one you like.
 
NHBFAN said:
Would applying 2 coats of #81 increase the "wet" look?



I dunno, you'll have to try it. I'd guess "not" but plenty of people would argue the other way. I tried mutliple applications of #3 and didn't notice any improvement once I topped it. It's like the added oils from multiple applications get taken off once you top it and you're back to where you'd be with only *one* application.
 
I think I still favor #7 over #81. Most folks have probably gone to #81 because it is easier to use. I have and use both. Once you get the hang of #7 though I think it does give a slightly more wet look at least to my eyes. I usually do 2 layers of #7 but, that is more to make sure I get an even distribution of it rather than trying to get any kind of film build.



As to #26 I have always used the liquid version. The pics I have posted of my Mustang with #26 are the liquid version. I recently bought a tub of the paste version but, can't really comment as I have only used it once so far.
 
rjstaaf said:
As to #26 I have always used the liquid version. The pics I have posted of my Mustang with #26 are the liquid version. I recently bought a tub of the paste version but, can't really comment as I have only used it once so far.



rjstaff,



I'll plan to purchase the paste version of #26 this weekend. As Accumulator pointed out, it should be easier on #81 (or #7).



Next combo for me, in search of the "wet look", will be:



VM

#7 x 2

#26 paste
 
I understand your passion for a wet look for your car because I have been chasing after this look for a long time for my clear-coated red Civic also.



After lots of trial and error, I have found out 2 reliable ways to get a wet look from Megs products and they are similar to what you did.



1. Megs Dual Action Cleaner Polish

2. Megs Speed Glaze.

3. As many layers of No7 as possible. I used to have as many as 10 layers of No7 on my paint. Many would argue that No7 is no layerable, unlike Zaino. This works for me and I personally believe I am wetting the paint with lots of oil. No harm done. I enjoy doing it and have lots of time.

4. Finish off with a layer of No26.

Do not be tempted to use too many layers of No26 bcos I feel that multiple layers degrade the overall clarity of your red colour.

It might be deeper and richer, but it has lost that "life" and "glimmer" due to too many coats of No 26. Pls bear in mind that No 26 adds a tiny bit of "tint" to your paint as it is not 100% clear.



After the above treatment, my car was already turning heads as it had that "wow!!!!" factor that really pops!.

However, to my surprise, I found out that another process can give an even BETTER result resulting in stunning richness, dazzling wet look and most importantly, 6weeks of unaffected water-beading.......the Swissol method.



1 As usual, prep surface to remove any defects+swirls.

2.Apply 1 or 2 layer of Swissol Cleaner Fluid. This is a polish+cleaner.

3. Apply 1 layer of Swissol Onyx and expose car to the sun for 3 hrs.



Goodness gracious! The results are stunning on my clearcoated Ferrari Red! Compared to Meguairs treatment, the Swissol method made the red come alive! There is a hard-to-explain inner radiance that simply makes the colour come alive. The wet look is the best I have obtained so far and it's an oily wet look....not the plastic-wrapping wet look that Zaino gives you. Swissol looks rich, alive, vibrant and clear. Very different vs No 26. It depends on what you like. Water beads are very small and closely spaced. In 38C weather, the beading effect was undiminished after 6weeks!! Megs No26 will never be able to achieve this.



The only catch is....Swissol products are expensive.

Pls....whatever they tell you, Swissol is NOT Zymol. Swissol was already established long before Zymol was started.



Overall, I respect and will continue to use Meguairs' surface prep products although I strongly believe and hv witnessed that Swissol's carnauba waxes are truly world class and gives a totally different appearance from No26.
 
81 is a good product, like the other guys are saying use a cleaner or swirl removing produt and then seal it with a polymer or carnuba wax. If the paint on the car is reasonabe a combination of #9 and #16-#26 is great or #80 and #20. Use#83 if claying has not given you the desired results after cleaning the car. remember polish, glaze,wax, your choice or glaze ,wax. #7 is a great product but should be used, in my opinoion, under a sealing wax since it won't offer alot of protection benefits.
 
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