Microfiber Buffing Towels and Lint

paintxpert- OK, I sure won't cast stones at somebody for following the instructions :xyxthumbs My don't say that though, and some of my MFs came with instructions to *boil* them before use (no, I didn't bother and they still work fine).



WCD- Guess I'll keep making sure the dryer is on "low". No problems so far and I CD-test regularly.



Sometime I'll take a brand new WWMF and air dry it consistently, see if that helps it stay effective longer. Seems like almost all WWs end up working less effectively after a certain amount of use, no matter what I do.



was said:
Yeah bleach would have been the killer, it breaks down the microfibers on a molecular level.
Click to expand...



Thanks for posting that, I never knew! I've never had any reason to use bleach with my MFs (seldom have a reason to use it for much of anything besides cleaning the washer), but I'll keep it in mind.
 
For all you guys who know micro fibretowels....thanks for the back-up. I am NO authority on towels in fact I use them:getdown quite infrequently. That may be a big surprise to some....I indicated I finish up with the polisher either my Makita....so times I refer to it as my moskita. Finish pad 4 inch from Germany for the best results. I seldom even hit the surface with a cloth before delivery. The surface if a high end car is already as perfect as you can make it. Sorry towel guys. They will always play a big role in detailing.
 
If there is nothing on the surface and it is optically CORRECT. with no dust then no. Lighter colors I usually will wipe down but BLACK almost never. Strange ay....but thats the way it is. If I wipe down it is always with a damp, very damp cloth folded into fours...my fingers never touch the surface....
 
In some cases yes if the paint will allow. The chemical and protection have already been buffed in. My job is proven to bead six months or beyond or I do the car again free. I use 3 to 4 primary chemicals while buffing I finish at 700 to 1000 rpm.
 
OK, if gotcha if you're dry buffing. But, I don't know of a single product that can be buffed ON and be left there? Which products are you working with that can be done that way?
 
Most any product will stay if you both go slow and even. Whilewatching the surface very closely you can finish up mark free and protected. Try it, you will soon throw your towels to the BACK of your priority....you will use them only if needed. YUP six full months OR I DO IT AGAIN FREE! Thats my style here in old New England where they DROP TONS of STRAIGHT SALT!
 
This is a technique that I have proven and it works for me...it does take your polishing skill to the next level. The Porsche dealer guys are astounded each time I do a job they could not do internally. Tough luck guys...I get paid for what I know but LARGELY paid for what I DO. I polish with a chemical that agrees with the finish . NOT one I am hung up on. Just my two cents here. :spot
 
David Fermani said:
OK, if gotcha if you're dry buffing. But, I don't know of a single product that can be buffed ON and be left there? Which products are you working with that can be done that way?
Click to expand...



Don't know if you saw this one, but Tdekany says that in this detail no towel ever touched the car. He explains how he did it, and later on ebpcivicsi chimes in with his own "no-towel" methods. Interesting reads to say the least.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/127358-let-lesson-07-jb-bmw-very-long.html
 
Last summer in Canada, while visiting Yvan Lacroix (look for great article with him in March issue of PCandD), we did a 3 step with only polishers and pads- never removed product from each step. Lastly, Opti-seal requires only to very thinly apply and it "flashes" and is gone with no more wiping- although I tend to follow with detail spray and a towel.



This is possible for two reasons that I saw.



1. His products and those used do not produce ANY buffing dust.

2. The products do not dry quickly and you can put one over the other when done "thin". Heck, even after an hour the polish was still like butter and not dry.



Rob
 
Its just the way I do things. I am not saying I dont wipe any cars down because light colors are almost never a problem wiping down. Its the high end dark colors that I finish with the wheel. Again a wheel is a high speed polisher for all the beginners out there. Just because I suggest what I do does NOT mean it will work for you. I work next to a guy who takes two days to compound and polish a car out. It really makes me laugh because the shop manager knows I can get the same results in half the time. He works hourly for the shop. I get paid by the job. I just refuse to lose my shirt in this business.
 
I can SLOW polish with just about any chemical and leave the protection on the surface. I can use any of your favorite products and make it work. Any product that leaves a lot of dust is really not desirable in my estimation if you will. This does not mean during rejuvenation that all my products are dust free, because the Menzerna I use is sometimes dusty....BUT after compounding its NOT uncommon for me to wet the car down again. This is just my procedure if you can use it GREAT. If not I am not offended
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top