Mf vs foam

T

The Count

New member
Ok so the foam didn't work good enough theres still some scratches with the orange and m105 so what if I get the mf and some more aggressive compound?



I got a flex so put that on 3 for mf right?



Whats the strongest compound with the deepest cut? Menzerma? Then what will be the polishing compound?





Pretty sold on getting the mf and a strong 1st step to be better than the foam, but then what is a good polish to follow with?
 
Meguairs M-101 Foam Cut Compound is ablt to get out 500 grit sanding marks where as Menzerna Power Gloss 1000 is able to get out 1200 grit and higher sanding marks.
 
If you have stuff a flex, orange and m105 can't take out, its time to slow down and think about things. That combo should cut plenty fast, especially for a newbie. I'd be concerned with taking some paint depth readings before you get more aggressive.
 
I ain't got a gauge tho, I want a compound thats easier to work with. I prolly got like 60-70% correction, but I want my baby smooth you know?



Need a good compound to cut prolly at least 1200 grit sandpaper, then what polish?
 
What Dan said.



The MF cutting pads with something like M105 or Uno *will* outcut orange/M105. But I'd really think twice about getting that aggressive, at least on a "normal use" vehicle.



If you do go that route, the MF pads leave a pretty decent finish for being so aggressive. Whatever you'd follow orange foam/M105 with oughta work fine.
 
*Just another warning - further compounding without knowing paint thickness can lead to premature paint failure*



With that said, i would match up 105 with a Surbuf pad. More aggressive than even MF pads but "Flex-friendly" - this will eat through severe marring BUT you will need to follow up with 1 maybe even 2 additional steps with a lesser polish/pad combination to clean up the hazing.



What type of car, year, paint are you dealing with? Your results wouldn't surprise me if you are working with rock-hard paint/cc from corvettes, MB's, or audis
 
MCA said:
.. i would match up 105 with a Surbuf pad...
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I never got the great results with SurBuf pads that others do :nixweiss They're not Accumulator-proof and I don't like the idea of recommending something that has a significant learning curve, in part because each try will be taking off clear. Not intended as an :argue but rather just a concern.
 
The Count said:
I ain't got a gauge tho, I want a compound thats easier to work with. I prolly got like 60-70% correction, but I want my baby smooth you know?



Need a good compound to cut prolly at least 1200 grit sandpaper, then what polish?
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81061d1299296321-3m-pink-fill-n-glaze-gallon-a3mdsc00024.jpg




If you can find some, this may be your best friend.



If not:



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or maybe:



autoglym.jpg




or, hows about:



Wet_Glaze_Banner.jpg




or, maybe try this:



red_moose_wax.jpg
 
Accumulator said:
I never got the great results with SurBuf pads that others do :nixweiss They're not Accumulator-proof and I don't like the idea of recommending something that has a significant learning curve, in part because each try will be taking off clear. Not intended as an :argue but rather just a concern.
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No worries at all, no offense taken - I completely agree with your concern. One of the reasons why i included a warning and a question for what type of paint/vehicle the OP is working on.



Surbufs will definitely eat up major marring but it will leave a surfaced hazed-to-hell. It's one of those pads where you got to let the "microfingers" do the work...unlike foam pads, you should not put too much downward pressure on Surbufs or the microfingers will get crunched down.



I have a few purple wool-foam pads that works very well but I just hate cleaning those things.....
 
I have and use yellow. With 105 it works well, but I still have MF on order to compare as I find some of the deeper swirls/scratches aren't removed with that. Will be trying D300 with the MF to start.
 
LilJayV10 said:
Does anyone use the Yellow Lake Country pad? I never see anyone mention it. Just the orange.
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I have one and used it regularly but the Optimum and Meguiars microfiber cutting pads are more aggressive and leave a better finish.
 
If M101 can remove 500 grit sanding marks then I wouldnt go near it

I prefer to use a polish that doesnt tear at the paint than use everything else on the market



MF pads from optimum are sensational and so are the surbuf's, I get no haze at all with them on anything from the dynabrade to a 3mm throw orbital. slightly stronger than MF

Rayon is a little stronger than surbuf I think and finishes better.



forget about the M105 and other compounds and crank the flex to 5 or 6 for a while then slow it down all the way to finish and do very small arm movements. quarter or half an inch per second
 
SVR said:
If M101 can remove 500 grit sanding marks then I wouldnt go near it

I prefer to use a polish that doesnt tear at the paint than use everything else on the market
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This from the guy who uses denim to buff orange peel out of paint.... :suspicious:



Guess I'm not clear on where you're making the distinction as far as "tearing at the paint" is concerned.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
This from the guy who uses denim to buff orange peel out of paint.... :suspicious:



Guess I'm not clear on where you're making the distinction as far as "tearing at the paint" is concerned.
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I don't see what the problem is.



Yes I do use denim and velvet to reduce orange peel up to 98%

But I get a hologram and swirl/marring free finish when I do that with the rotary or the dynabrade head and dont remove as much paint as if I was using a compound which tears at the paint leaving marring with the very same pads requiring more work with wool, microfibre, surbuf etc to fix the damage.



nothing wrong with reducing orange peel by rotary or the dynabrade head

its safer than sanding because you can see the peel going down underneath the pad so you can stop whenever you wish. and there are no sanding marks to fix



if you had sanded, you would get it up to 100% flat but then you have to remove more paint to fix the sanding marks.



Of course though I wont reduce orange peel on every car, that is just stupid. quality OEM or aftermarket custom paint only



With what I'm using, it rolls over the paint instead of tearing at it

and the paint ends up flawless and there's no solvent, thickener or heavy oils in it. solvents bleed out colour and break the paint down over time with repeated polishing



so whats the issue.
 
Hey, I'm really impressed with the picture of 3M Fill N Glaze, that was the secret sauce at the body shop I worked at in the 70's. Smells like cat urine, we called it Pink Panther Piss. But, boy would it cover up everything and look outstanding.
 
mca- Yeah, Kevin Brown and I have discussed my experiences with the SurBuf pads, no idea what I'm doing wrong (none of the "usual things", that's for sure), but they just don't work for me :nixweiss
 
SVR said:
With what I'm using, it rolls over the paint instead of tearing at it



so whats the issue.
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That right there is what I take issue with; "rolling over the paint" would imply that you're not removing material, at least the way I interpret it. And we both know if you're removing orange peel, that means there's material coming off the finish.



Your original statement was "if M101 can remove 500 grit scratches I'd stay away from it" -- can your denim/velvet pads remove 500 grit sanding scratches? If they can remove enough material to reduce/remove orange peel, I would certainly think they could.... so objectively speaking it seems like that by itself would be an invalid reason to suggest staying away from a product.
 
JuneBug said:
Hey, I'm really impressed with the picture of 3M Fill N Glaze, that was the secret sauce at the body shop I worked at in the 70's. Smells like cat urine, we called it Pink Panther Piss. But, boy would it cover up everything and look outstanding.
Click to expand...



Yeah, this and Liquid Ebony, were the things in my dad's shop. Those were really great tools to have.



Strangely enough, we found a full bottle of pink glaze in the garage, but its not pink anymore. Trying to figure out if the color changed over time, or if we got a refourmulation prior to it being discontinued. Debating if i should use it anyway.
 
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