Menzerna Pics

NYV6Coupe said:
zainoshine:

I can't find anything official regarding downtime between layers but the product is easier than easy to apply. I waited 24 hrs between layers.

Some people who use SG wait 24 hrs, some wait days, and some apply 2nd layer a few hours later. Go with what works for you.

I polished with IP, then FPII which leaves the surface squeaky clean. Both products have no silicones & no fillers. Remember to take off any residue with a damp MF towel, not a dry towel.

FTG goes on next, almost a WOWO product. Applied it with a PC at 3 (no need to work it) & it dries to a haze quickly. Take off the residue with a dry towel & move on to FMJ.

Applied FMJ the same way, PC at 3 & take it off with a dry MF towel when is hazes. I didn't have a finishing pad handy so I used a white LC 6.5" pad. I put two lines about 3" - 4" on the pad & applied.

2nd & 3rd layer were applied by hand. I used less FMJ & I think it was quicker than using a PC.

FMJ is a breeze to use manually. I used a MF applicator & put a nickle-size blob on the pad and it seemed to spread forever on the already very slick surface.

NOTE: do not get FMJ wet when it hazes. I had some sweat drop on the hood & it smeared the FMJ. Couldn't get rid of it without reapplying FMJ & everything was fine.

IP, FPII, and FTG clean out of the pads & applicators easily. FMJ is persistent & tougher to wash out & it'll stain whatever you use 'cause red happens to be a very strong die.
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Next time you use the FMJ, try to apply by hand. You'll see how very little you use. I've found the foam pad sucks up too much fmj. Usually i'll wait a week between coats.

If you get a chance try FMJ and FTG with the MicroFinger pads
 
mgm2003, did you notice any hazing with IP on the sides with pc? if so how did fp work it out? i hear lots of people say fp is a paint burnisher? but it must contain abrassives?
 
Cheapshot: Yes, I've experienced hazing with IP when using a yellow cut pad, or the orange power pad. I typically use a green or blue edge 2000 pad to start out with.

I33: I'm with you too! The microfinger pads are the way to go with FMJ. A little product goes a looooong way.

NYV6COUPE: I agree at $69.00 (+ 10% off) the menzerna kit is the way to go if you want to try FMJ. From my experience, FMJ works best with other Menzerna products. I haven't had much luck with using AIO as a base. For some reason it doesn't seem to bond as well and hold up as long (from my experience). I think the kit would be made even better if they included Intensive Polish. IMO, the current kit doesn't have a product that effectively removed defects via the PC.
 
Cheapshot: FPII does add glow/shine to the paint, but if you dab some on your finger you'll feel a small amount of abrasive grit that clears up minor swirls. FPII has more shine and less abrasives, where IP and Power Compound are just the opposite.
 
mgm2003:

The AIO + FMJ bonding issue is exactly the question I have about Bill North's test. I agree with Bill that AIO should leave the surface clean & ready for any wax or polymer/acrylic product(s) but there are no guarantees that inter-layering different mfg's products will work together successfully.

Could be that AIO + FMJ will "look" great (Anthony Orasco's comments) together but durability will suffer.

As for the kit, I agree that I'd rather have IP than car wash.

What do you use for a QD on FMJ?
 
I use the Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl Instant Detail Spray. It restores the slickness & shine like nothing else!

Yes, I agree that the AIO and FMJ combo look very nice, but it doesn't appear to have the longevity when compared to using the menzerna kit for prep. Really not sure why? AIO + WG work really well together. I plan to test AIO + EX-P over the weekend.
 
Would you guys recommend the Menzerna kit for a newbie? I've been looking through the site... and have to admit I'm getting a bit confused/excited about what to use. Kinda feel like a kid in a candy store. Plus... I don't own a PC..... yet.

I have a 95 BMW 325i - light blue metalic BMW, and an 01 Volvo S60 - Black.

As I haven't detailed the cars in quite some time... I'm sure I'll have to clay. I was thinking of a sealant as opposed to a wax.... since as much as I want to detail the cars more often... I just don't seem to have the time... I'll need to opt for durability.

I know there is no "right" combination... as someone trying to get back into taking care of his cars... I just want to start out on a good foot.

Also... any opinions on my results will be better if I do get a PC? I'm assuming yes (I'd probably be getting the edge 2000 as well based upon the comments I've seen).

In any case... thanks in advance! :beer
 
Re: Menzerna FMJ QD

MGM2003,

You may want to try the Sonus Acrylic Spritz as your QD for the FMJ. The 1Z Lackfinish cut 50/50 w+ distilled water is my choice as well. Gotta love that 1Z Perls wash, very nice stuff.

Kevin H,

For someone beginning, you may want to look at Poorboys products as well as just at least one small bottle of Klasse AIO. PB makes some nice swirl removers or SSR's and depending on how bad it is it may be time to invest in a PC. You could start with say SSR 2.5 to get swirls out, then swith to AIO for final cleaning. Then, for a sealant, try EX-P if it's a light blue or EX if it's a bit darker. EX-P is pure sealant, EX has caranuba in it. All very easy on/off and the cost is cheap. Once you get more fluent, look into the Menzerna polishes or 1Z polishes. You could get FMJ alone as a sealant. I just don't recommend Menzerna polishes for those starting as they are designed for rotary use, but CAN be use by PC, just takes more time/effort. The other polishes work better for starting out, easy, fast and works well. Having a PC makes it that much quicker and more uniform.
Just wash, clay and start polishing to remove defects, then protect/maintain.

Regards,
Deanski
 
Deanski

Many thanks! I have many other questions... but I'll ask just one.... are all clays created equal? Hmmm.... maybe this should be another thread.
 
Re: Clay

KevinH,

You can pick-up clay from some auto supply stores. One to look for is Clay Magic. Or Mothers clay kit.

When you order from Dwane at Premiumautocare for your other products, get some clay as well.

Any good quick detail spray will do to lube it after you washed the finish. Then, it will feel like glass! Next come polishing etc etc

As for FMJ, order by itself but again, look into PB polishes or if your local auto supply house handles Meguiars, look for #83 (DACP) and #80 (Speed Glaze) or #82 (Swirl Mark Remover). They are the tan bottles. It all depends on the finish condition. You may want to take some pics, some close-up and post them in another thread so we can all assist in finding what you REALLY need! Hard to tell w/o looking at it.

Regards,
Deanski
 
KevinH said:
Deanski

Many thanks! I have many other questions... but I'll ask just one.... are all clays created equal? Hmmm.... maybe this should be another thread.
Click to expand...

kevinh: you can also pickup Clay Magic at AutoZone for $10 & it comes with clay lube. When mine ran out I started using soapy car wash water (NXT) as a clay lube and IHMO it works great.
 
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