Menzerna PG vs. HTEC

I think PG marrs ore, and HT leaves a better finish



PG might take a little more out faster, but the finish is usually worse



either one works well by PC and a cutting pad if not on a rotary
 
So I tested out some polish/pad combos on my audi yesterday to get ready for next weekend when I have enough time. I used LC 4" yellow pad with HTEC and it seemed to take forever to cut. I was working on a 1x1 area and had to do about 3-4 passes to get the swirls out.



So my question is if I used the slow-cutting technique with the HTEC would I take less time or I should say less passes? What do you guys think about the slow cutting technique. I saw one member do a 1996 audi a4 with pretty bad swirls and that is what he used with Menzerna PG and it had great results! Im hoping that that would work for me.
 
So I tested out some polish/pad combos on my audi yesterday to get ready for next weekend when I have enough time. I used LC 4" yellow pad with HTEC and it seemed to take forever to cut. I was working on a 1x1 area and had to do about 3-4 passes to get the swirls out.



So my question is if I used the slow-cutting technique with the HTEC would I take less time or I should say less passes? What do you guys think about the slow cutting technique. I saw one member do a 1996 audi a4 with pretty bad swirls and that is what he used with Menzerna PG and it had great results! Im hoping that that would work for me.



Also what classifies a pass?
 
I classify a pass as the time between application of the polish to a panel, and when you wipe it off. So whatever happens in between that is a pass. In terms of cut PG has more cut than HTEC, but not by much. In terms of finish, HTEC finishes much, much better than PG.
 
Alright so If I were to use the slow-cutting method 1 pass would be this right



1.

Apply a spray of water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish (PGC or IP depending on swirl severity) to the pad.



2.

Work on a very small area at a time - I would go for roughly 1' square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.



3.

Turn the PC on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine - I tend to hold it with the handly on for this method, one hand underneth the back of the PC to hold it up and the other on the handle to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC - try to support the machine's weight. Move the PC slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around five, six passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off...



4.

Rather than buff off the residue, I spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time... Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.



5.

After two hits at speed 3, I then spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.



6.

Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply pressure to the PC for a final single pass over the area at about 1" per second. The polish will likely be pretty clear after this stage, so buff off the residue. If you examine the pad, I found that it actually looked quite clean after this, very little white polish left there.



*From Dave KG
 
^^^^^??????????



according to your steps above, after step 3 you are polishing with water??? Am I reading that right?



my process is this:



1 put polish on pad

2 spread it on the panel with machine off

3 start at speed 4 to cover area thoroughly

4 turn it on to speed 6 and polish away making 1/2 overlapping passes until the polish starts to clear

5 wipe it up

6 move to next section, or repeat if defects are not removed enough for a lighter compound to clean up



oh I spritz with a QD to add lubricity every few panels, not every one, sometimes..working with HTEC it has enough lubricating oils that I dont have to use QD
 
you're going to need more weight than just the weight of the pc. you're going to have to add pressure. HTEC works better with heat. Actually, it works MUCH better with heat.
 
I only use those both with my rotory.. I wasn't aware that they could be used with the PC. I would think that both need the heat of the rotory to work properly. I use the PG more than the HTEC..... To me, the PG finishes better. They both cut fantastic!!!
 
David703 said:
I only use those both with my rotory.. I wasn't aware that they could be used with the PC. I would think that both need the heat of the rotory to work properly. I use the PG more than the HTEC..... To me, the PG finishes better. They both cut fantastic!!!
Click to expand...



Both will work by PC, but both work much better by rotary. HTEC is probably the easier of the two to work with via rotary, since it finishes down a bit better and doesn't dust quite as much.
 
Yeah, H-T EC works well by PC/Cyclo, but some additional pressure is usually required. Be careful doing that with 4" pads.



GetAudiHere- Note how simplified toyotaguy's approach is compared to yours. I do pretty much the same thing he does. Meg's #34 would be a better idea than the water IMO, it's great stuff to have handy when polishing. Water can do weird things to polishes...sometimes it makes them cut *more* sometimes it makes them cut *less*. I keep water away from my polishing pads unless I'm both after a specific effect *and* know what I'm doing.



Sometimes it just takes a long, long time. When using the PC/4" pads/aggressive products to remove some light random scratches from our Audis, those little individual scratches can take a long, long time. 3-4 passes sounds nice and quick to me, I take a lot longer! I even take a few passes when doing it with the rotary.



Remember that you can't really gauge your work by the experiences of others ;)
 
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