Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FF really necessary?

K

kav

New member
I just finished a 6 hour marathon where I cleaned, clayed and polished the whole car (except the front clear bra).



I used Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83Q and the paint came out great. No marks, holograms, or scratches left over. Is it still necessary to go with the Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FF as suggested by others prior to sealing?
 
Not necessary if SIP did not leave minor swirls behind, but hitting it with 106ff will definitely improve the gloss and finish significantly. I strongly recommend you use 106ff with the white or gray pad. Do one panel, and see for yourself.
 
Once again, I agree totally with the good doc. SIP does leave a nice finish, but your car will *glow* after at least one application of 106. If you're using a PC, I'd do three applications, but that's just me. With a rotary, I do at least two applications. Since it sounds like the SIP got your paint all nice and corrected, I'd use the black/grey LC pad for the 106. It doesn't have any bite to it at all, and you'll realize 106's max potential that way.
 
Alright, you guys have convinced me!



This is my first time with a DA polisher. I have both a lake county black and white pad left over to use tomorrow - I had been leaning towards the white pad since it would still give a little cut and I didn't want to do more than one application (I'm easing my way into this whole thing). Given this, would you still recommend the black pad?
 
kav said:
Alright, you guys have convinced me!



This is my first time with a DA polisher. I have both a lake county black and white pad left over to use tomorrow - I had been leaning towards the white pad since it would still give a little cut and I didn't want to do more than one application (I'm easing my way into this whole thing). Given this, would you still recommend the black pad?
Click to expand...



Do the white if the car still has some minor swirls, if not, go for the black.
 
Don't forget to rewash it again before you apply your sealant/wax.



Menzerna uses a wax like lubricant which you'll need to remove before you apply any waxes.



Josh
 
I agree with Doc, Supe, and Josh here!



I'd probably be inclined to try the white pad with the 106FF, just because I have used that combination myself with very good results.
 
JoshVette said:
Don't forget to rewash it again before you apply your sealant/wax.



Menzerna uses a wax like lubricant which you'll need to remove before you apply any waxes.



Josh
Click to expand...
Or an IPA, Prep Sol wipe down.
 
Perhaps I don't have an eye for it or I'm not that discriminating, but I finished with SIP via PC speed 6 and 4" orange pad on my '01 GTI last year, then stepped down to 106 with both 6.5" and 4" white pads and I couldn't tell any real difference. For this reason, I didn't use any of the 106 bottle that I have (and that's an expensive bottle).



Now that I have a rotary, I might hit it back this year with either the white or black /gray pad to see if I can make that extra glow come out. Am I the only one on with this experience?
 
docrice said:
Perhaps I don't have an eye for it or I'm not that discriminating, but I finished with SIP via PC speed 6 and 4" orange pad on my '01 GTI last year, then stepped down to 106 with both 6.5" and 4" white pads and I couldn't tell any real difference. For this reason, I didn't use any of the 106 bottle that I have (and that's an expensive bottle).



Now that I have a rotary, I might hit it back this year with either the white or black /gray pad to see if I can make that extra glow come out. Am I the only one on with this experience?
Click to expand...



VW clear is hard. My sister used to have a black Jetta and it was crazy hard. It looked acceptable after a HTEC on a cutting pad at 1500rpm.
 
docrice said:
Perhaps I don't have an eye for it or I'm not that discriminating, but I finished with SIP via PC speed 6 and 4" orange pad on my '01 GTI last year, then stepped down to 106 with both 6.5" and 4" white pads and I couldn't tell any real difference. For this reason, I didn't use any of the 106 bottle that I have (and that's an expensive bottle).



Now that I have a rotary, I might hit it back this year with either the white or black /gray pad to see if I can make that extra glow come out. Am I the only one on with this experience?
Click to expand...



This is why I would recommend three applications with a PC. A PC by it's very nature doesn't have much bite. So it will take multiple applications of whatever polish you're using to see the desired results. I'd be willing to bet that if I took my rotary and did two applications of 106 to your car after you SIP'd it with your DA, you would be singing an entirely different tune.



More discussion about using either the white or black pad: If you are not going to be doing any correction at all with your 106 step, *always* use the black pad. You don't want the pads bite interferring with your final polish. The bite of the pad will always prevent you from bringing out the best finish. You need a no bite pad to really reach the full potential of 106.
 
SuperBee364 said:
This is why I would recommend three applications with a PC. A PC by it's very nature doesn't have much bite. So it will take multiple applications of whatever polish you're using to see the desired results. I'd be willing to bet that if I took my rotary and did two applications of 106 to your car after you SIP'd it with your DA, you would be singing an entirely different tune.



More discussion about using either the white or black pad: If you are not going to be doing any correction at all with your 106 step, *always* use the black pad. You don't want the pads bite interferring with your final polish. The bite of the pad will always prevent you from bringing out the best finish. You need a no bite pad to really reach the full potential of 106.
Click to expand...



Is it difficult to break down the 106 when using a pad on a PC with zero bite?
 
SuperBee364 said:
It does take longer to break down with a PC, but it will do the job. Speed six required.
Click to expand...



White pad is the least aggressive I will use for any correction with the PC, even on a very soft single stage using mild polish. Especially on harder CC paints.



The rotary uses friction to make up for it, the PC doesn't have enough, no matter how many passes you make as you're just glazing, not creating enough friction for even nano polish to break down. Remember, Nano was designed for those ceramiclear finishes, so it has extra lubricity and therefore specifically designed to give the operator a longer working time.



JoshVette said:
Don't forget to rewash it again before you apply your sealant/wax.



Menzerna uses a wax like lubricant which you'll need to remove before you apply any waxes.



Josh
Click to expand...





It's mineral oil and I believe glycerin as well. Best bet is to use that opportunity to apply their pure glaze, excellent stuff, and go directly to carnauba - but if you are looking to apply a sealant, I would spray the surface with IPA/wipe to prep for application.
 
Need some advice. Last year, I did my '01 VW for the first time with the following:



1st round:



- 2 passes entire car with 6.5" LC orange on PC speed 6 using #83 (little pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)

- 1 or 2 passes with 6.5" LC white on PC speed 6 using KAIO for follow-up



I wasn't totally satisfied so I did:



2nd round:



- 2 passes entire car with 4" LC orange on PC speed 6 using SIP (medium+ pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)



Do you think I still have plenty of clear for me to start this all over again with a rotary? I don't have a paint meter to tell, and ultimately if I screw up it's only my car. I was planning on maybe doing SIP with 6.5" orange (via the pyramid technique) on some areas and then maybe going over it with 6.5" white with one or two passes using 106ff like you guys said (using the Wal-Mart Prep-All or real Prep-Sol wipe-downs). Then maybe stepping down again with 6.5" black. Is this overkill or should I go directly to black?



I'm not familiar with the amount of clear VW typically throws on their vehicles, so I just want to be sure it's okay, even though I understand the PC doesn't grind down the clear that much to begin with.
 
docrice said:
Need some advice. Last year, I did my '01 VW for the first time with the following:



1st round:



- 2 passes entire car with 6.5" LC orange on PC speed 6 using #83 (little pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)

- 1 or 2 passes with 6.5" LC white on PC speed 6 using KAIO for follow-up



I wasn't totally satisfied so I did:



2nd round:



- 2 passes entire car with 4" LC orange on PC speed 6 using SIP (medium+ pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)



Do you think I still have plenty of clear for me to start this all over again with a rotary? I don't have a paint meter to tell, and ultimately if I screw up it's only my car. I was planning on maybe doing SIP with 6.5" orange (via the pyramid technique) on some areas and then maybe going over it with 6.5" white with one or two passes using 106ff like you guys said (using the Wal-Mart Prep-All or real Prep-Sol wipe-downs). Then maybe stepping down again with 6.5" black. Is this overkill or should I go directly to black?



I'm not familiar with the amount of clear VW typically throws on their vehicles, so I just want to be sure it's okay, even though I understand the PC doesn't grind down the clear that much to begin with.
Click to expand...





You were working with a PC? Sure man.



Also, only use the 4" pad for spot areas with the rotary, no need for it with a PC if you've got everything taped off. PC pad size should be 6.5" and same for a rotary, but those 7.5" CCS pads are great for large areas, I'm transitioning to my 6.5" pads for that as well.



I need to buy some of that prep solution from Wal-Mart, but the closest one is in ghetto East Portland. lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top