Menzerna Intensive Polish

T

TerryD

New member
Working on a boat tonight and wondering what is the most agressive pad I can use with the IP without inducing buffer trails or marring. The hull is in very good shape, no chalking, roughness, etc. just minor scuffs and scratches, and IP is the most agressive polish I have. Reading through the boards I understand gelcoat can be pretty hard.



Thanks in advance,



TerryD
 
I usually use an orange pad with IP but have even used a yellow but this is on paint, this is with a Flex. if you use a DA you shouldn't have a problem with buffer trails.
 
Well, it didn't go so well. Started with an orange pad and 3 or 4 passes later...nothing. The scuffs and light scratches were still there.



I stepped up to a yellow pad, and again 5 or 6 passes. The IP started to dry so I stopped and wiped it down to check my work. What I saw was not a glassy finish, but what looked like it could have passed as remnants from a bird bomb (on an regular car finish). It is still smooth, but the reflectiveness from a light gives it a patterned pitted look. You can only see it in the reflection, but I couldn't feel it. At least I didn't think I could. Sorry I don't have pictures. I may try wet sanding it lightly with some 2000 and give it another pass with FP II or IP by hand.



The boat is 4 years old and has been stored indoors inside at least the last 2 or 3 years.



I was using a Shurhold DA......puzzling.:confused:
 
TerryD said:
Well, it didn't go so well. Started with an orange pad and 3 or 4 passes later...nothing. The scuffs and light scratches were still there.



I stepped up to a yellow pad, and again 5 or 6 passes. The IP started to dry so I stopped and wiped it down to check my work. What I saw was not a glassy finish, but what looked like it could have passed as remnants from a bird bomb (on an regular car finish). It is still smooth, but the reflectiveness from a light gives it a patterned pitted look. You can only see it in the reflection, but I couldn't feel it. At least I didn't think I could. Sorry I don't have pictures. I may try wet sanding it lightly with some 2000 and give it another pass with FP II or IP by hand.

The boat is 4 years old and has been stored indoors inside at least the last 2 or 3 years.

I was using a Shurhold DA......puzzling.:confused:
Click to expand...



IMO, the DA is just not powerful enough to solve many paintwork problems.

If you're doing it on your own lovingly maintained vehicle or boat, DA is fine.

But doing it on others' possibly neglected vehicles or boats, the DA is insufficiently powerful for certain situations.



My reco:

On very "bad" sections, lightly sand and then wool-pad it, followed by refining work.



On the no so bad sections, which are still full of deep scuffs, this always works for me if I want to only use Menzerna prdts:

Rotary+Megs Maroon cutting pad+Menz IP...followed by

Rotary+Megs Yellow+Menz 106FF



If you don't hv a rotary or don't intend to use one:

DA + Megs Maroon Cutting Pad + Menz IP at high speed.

DA + Megs Yellow Pad + Menz 106FF
 
gigondaz said:
DA + Megs Maroon Cutting Pad + Menz IP at high speed.

DA + Megs Yellow Pad + Menz 106FF
Click to expand...



Wow, I think you and I are the only people on Autopia that actually like the Megs Maroon pads! I think they work great for cutting fast. To the OP, I have very little experience with Gel coat, but I'd hit up a Marine store and find out what their favorite compound is, either 3m or Meguiars should have something specifically for boats that may end up saving you lots of time.
 
yakky said:
Wow, I think you and I are the only people on Autopia that actually like the Megs Maroon pads! I think they work great for cutting fast. To the OP, I have very little experience with Gel coat, but I'd hit up a Marine store and find out what their favorite compound is, either 3m or Meguiars should have something specifically for boats that may end up saving you lots of time.
Click to expand...



:hifive:LOL!

Most forumers here love using the Orange Pad.

But for many cars that I do, Orange is just not strong enough.



Megs Maroon Pad, if you experiement with loads of diff techniques and combos, you'll discover it's a very powerful weapon. It might be old-school to many people....but hey...look at the havoc that old school RPGs can wreak in the urban battleground!!



For gelcoats, my favourite compound is still Meg's older (sigh: old-school) Diamond Cut No85 with their current 4ply double-sided wool pad. 1/2way through compounding, spritz some water, and continue buffing without adding anymore No85. Gelcoats can be slowly burnished this way to an ultra high gloss.
 
Thanks everyone. I appreciate the advice, and yes, working on my own boat.



The area was about 6" x 12" and I never really lifted the pad from the surface. Is it possible to overheat gelcoat at 1,000 -1500 rpm just moving back and forth? This is my first attempt on gelcoat, but plenty of years behind a random orbital. I just can't see overheating this area with a yellow pad and only pressure supplied by the buffer. As I mentioned earlier, the gelcoat is in excellent condition, just some minor scratches - nothing nearly as bad as what some folks on here have dealt with.
 
yakky said:
Wow, I think you and I are the only people on Autopia that actually like the Megs Maroon pads! I think they work great for cutting fast. To the OP, I have very little experience with Gel coat, but I'd hit up a Marine store and find out what their favorite compound is, either 3m or Meguiars should have something specifically for boats that may end up saving you lots of time.
Click to expand...



-AND-



gigondaz said:
Megs Maroon Pad, if you experiement with loads of diff techniques and combos, you'll discover it's a very powerful weapon. It might be old-school to many people....but hey...look at the havoc that old school RPGs can wreak in the urban battleground!!
Click to expand...



Nah, you guys aren't alone in your appreciation of the Meguiar's maroon pad, I like 'em too. Just finished using a 7006 on one of the beaters (via Flex with M105). I also got good results with that pad back when I did the M3, for some reason it cut better for me than the Edge yellow wool that I tried first (that one was via rotary with various compounds). Guess it's no surprise that I like yet another old-school approach though :D



Just like those RPGs (and a scad of other "obsolete" weapons), what worked then still *works* now. Not that I'm opposed to progress or anything....
 
TerryD said:
Well, it didn't go so well. Started with an orange pad and 3 or 4 passes later...nothing. The scuffs and light scratches were still there.



I stepped up to a yellow pad, and again 5 or 6 passes. The IP started to dry so I stopped and wiped it down to check my work. What I saw was not a glassy finish, but what looked like it could have passed as remnants from a bird bomb (on an regular car finish). It is still smooth, but the reflectiveness from a light gives it a patterned pitted look. You can only see it in the reflection, but I couldn't feel it. At least I didn't think I could. Sorry I don't have pictures. I may try wet sanding it lightly with some 2000 and give it another pass with FP II or IP by hand.



The boat is 4 years old and has been stored indoors inside at least the last 2 or 3 years.



I was using a Shurhold DA......puzzling.:confused:
Click to expand...



I wouldn't wet sand (yet)....Rotary-wool-compound is your friend on gelcoat. Compound on the DA might work for you, but slow going. The FPII or IP maybe good enough with the rotary and wool. I tried the DA for several years...worked the best with purple foam-wool usually with finesse-it. But, it turned out to be alot of work and slow. Last year I took the Makita back out, faster and better results. I use the DA for tight spots and applying FK1000PX2 which is my fav on gelcoat.
 
Accumulator said:
-AND-







Nah, you guys aren't alone in your appreciation of the Meguiar's maroon pad, I like 'em too. Just finished using a 7006 on one of the beaters (via Flex with M105). I also got good results with that pad back when I did the M3, for some reason it cut better for me than the Edge yellow wool that I tried first (that one was via rotary with various compounds). Guess it's no surprise that I like yet another old-school approach though :D



Just like those RPGs (and a scad of other "obsolete" weapons), what worked then still *works* now. Not that I'm opposed to progress or anything....
Click to expand...





:bigups:bigups....you're DA MAN, Accumulator!!!!
 
TerryD said:
Like rubbing compound?
Click to expand...



Yes...rubbing compound. Go to 3m's website there is a link on how to in their marine section...it may be a you tube demo using there products. Sorry don't have time to dig up the link right now.
 
gigondaz said:
:bigups:bigups....you're DA MAN, Accumulator!!!!
Click to expand...



Heh heh...thanks. Seems like you and I have so many differing experiences (not to say we're always :argue or anything) that, well, I appreciate your posting that.
 
Thanks, I guess I just wasn't thinking clearly. You caught me off guard with the idea of compounding gelcoat. I will try it tomorrow and report back.
 
It's taken me a while to report back, but I have good news.



Apparently, I was overheating the gelcoat with the DA (@ 1000 rpm), yellow pad, and IP, and that is what caused the gelcoat to look somewhat pitted like orange peel in paint, but deeper. I should not have used such a large pad in such a small area.



Anyway, I spent about 20 minutes using rubbing compound and a 3" white foam pad on a spot the size of a baseball, by hand.



The surface dulled and I could see where the low spots were. But, I kept working the compound in while keeping the pad damp and removed probably 80% of the damage. IPA wipedowns every so often and followed up with IP again - this time by hand, and it looks good enough to put away for the rest of the year.



I may work on it some more in the spring, but for now. It's good enough.



Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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