Meguiars / Zaino

C

capt. dan

New member
I am a newbie and just received my porter cable. I have some meg #80 and #83 to remove some swirls in my soft black paint. I am hoping to only need the #80. Is it ok to put the Z5pro over top of the #80? I do have some #21, would that be better? I have used the Zaino a couple of times and am happy with the durability but was not happy with the looks. Most likely because of poor prep. I am hoping to take care of that with the PC.



Thanks
 
capt. dan said:
I am a newbie and just received my porter cable. I have some meg #80 and #83 to remove some swirls in my soft black paint. I am hoping to only need the #80. Is it ok to put the Z5pro over top of the #80? I do have some #21, would that be better? I have used the Zaino a couple of times and am happy with the durability but was not happy with the looks. Most likely because of poor prep. I am hoping to take care of that with the PC.



Thanks
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In all honesty, I do not know. I would so you probably could, but because of the oils in #80, it wouldn't be the best base for Zaino. If you have any aio products (klasse, zaio, werkstatt), it would be best to lay down a layer of that prior to zaino for the best longevity/durability.



Greg
 
You're not going to be able to use the Zaino over #80 unless you clean the oils it will leave behind. You can try an IPA wipe--you will want the surface to be literally squeaky clean before you put the Zaino down.
 
Scottwax said:
Why not do #80/#21 now, wait a few days for #21 to fully cure and you can probably use Z5 Pro over it.
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Thanks for the info... Will the Z5 add anything that the #21 would not? Depth, shine, durability? I guess I am asking if there is a benefit to using the Z5 over the #21.



This is my first black car and I jumped in buying products early on with just enough research to make me want to spend $$$$$. The Z5 claim was that it would fill in the swirls. I guess three coats is not enough to fill it in so my common sense kicked in and I know that the prep is 95% of the solution. A little more research and watching the Meguiars video where they detail the black corvette. I am hooked now, this is what I need to bring my paint back to life. So I buy the PC, the pads, #83, #80, #21 (if I bump my order up I get a free duffel bag), all sorts of towells for polishing and drying. Where does it end? I guess if its worth doing, its worth over doing!!!!



I have a red Jeep Cherokee that I think is a single stage paint that I am going to practice on. It is need of some attention. I will use the #21 on it and see how it holds up and then try the Z5 over top of that.
 
Amazingly enough I have used Zaino Z2 with ZFX or preceeded by Z1 over #80 and I have never had an issue with it at all and that goes back 3 years right up until a month ago .. I have never prewiped it with anything nor did I use AIO prior to it nor did I wash between the #80 and Z stuff.



Anyway .. my 2 cents.
 
wannafbody said:
an ISO wipedown is best before applying Z5p/Z2p
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What is stated will work perfectly.:up



You can also inspect your polishing results by removing the oils which have a tendency to "fill" some blemishes.:up
 
wannafbody said:
Maybe you should call him and ask him.
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Untill I had a puter crash 4 months ago I had a e-mail from him and in my e-mail I asked a couple questions about Z1/ ZFX and also prep before Z1 / Z2 and I was questioning the prefered polishing steps and said I was going to be using Menzerna IP/FP or #83/#80 then immediatly to Z1 and his response was either was acceptable.



And like I said I have had no issues.



BTW what would you say the visable signs were "IF" it wasn't bonding? Assuming the first layer didn't bond the subsequent ones wouldn't either and if thats the case how come I can get it lasting all summer or over the winter months. I know its still there because of the sheeting.
 
Jesstzn said:
BTW what would you say the visable signs were "IF" it wasn't bonding? Assuming the first layer didn't bond the subsequent ones wouldn't either and if thats the case how come I can get it lasting all summer or over the winter months. I know its still there because of the sheeting.
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You already mentioned the best sign that Zaino has worn off. Sheeting water when clean. Zaino beads through out its lifetime. Not for just 2 weeks after application and start to sheet type of deal. This normally indicates a poorly performing and a short-lived protectant, If it beads at the beginning, it should continue to bead in some manner until the LSP is gone.:usa
 
What's the difference between beading and sheeting on a clean, just washed vehicle inrelation to pertection? Do some products produce beading and others sheeting? Can you tell that your protection has deteriorated if each characteristic changes?
 
David Fermani said:
What's the difference between beading and sheeting on a clean, just washed vehicle in relation to protection? Do some products produce beading and others sheeting? Can you tell that your protection has deteriorated if each characteristic changes?
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If my protectant starts starts off beading and does so for several weeks or months and than starts to sheet. IMHO, in addition to the diminishing "POP", it is time to replace.



Of course there still may be some residual protection left when the beading stops but obviously everything that protected the finish is no longer there.



If your LSP starts off sheeting from the start, one must use other clues.



The question is: If a LSP starts out beading for the first 2 or 3 washes and on the fourth starts to sheet, with all things equal except time, has the LSP started to deteriorate or has the LSP magically changed its protective and structural characteristics? :nixweiss



The converse is also true. If a LSP starts of sheeting and changes to sheeting....



For my money, past experiences (40 yrs worth) and insurance of my vehicle's protection, I will error on the side of the former - deterioration.:wavey
 
Since you have both products, why not use #21 on half of the car and Z5Pro on the other. Then you can see with your own eyes which you like better and test which lasts the longest for you.
 
my experience is that most products tend to bead for the first couple of washes and then sheet water for a couple wahses and then pool water. That would indicate that part of what was applied to the surface has either washed away or evaporated. Since some manufacturers claim that oils help adhere their product to the paint surface I would think that washing would break that weak bond and actually remove the product.
 
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