Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Block Question

Hi-



I just invested in a $17 Unigrit block that's 1500 grit. Is it necessary to get the 2000 also to get a smoother finish, or is 1500 enough to get rid of the blotches of touch-up that the previous owner left?



If so, I guess I'm going to have to spend another $18 tomorrow.



Thanks everyone.
 
I purchased their 2000 and 3000 grit blocks - thought the 1500 was too much for my chip repairs. $17-$18? HandsOnTools has them for $12. Here's the link



Still no Netscape access to Autopia
 
We're Here said:
I purchased their 2000 and 3000 grit blocks - thought the 1500 was too much for my chip repairs. $17-$18? HandsOnTools has them for $12. Here's the link




GREAT prices, but I can't afford to wait for the blocks. It takes me at least an extra day since I have to soak it in water overnight.



Shipping is $7 on that place, I wish it was free.
 
I've been using the 2000 block on some touch-up paint and it works great. The 1500 would seem too coarse though. These little blocks aren't cheap but they're definitly worth it.



:up
 
i thought laquer thinner would remove th blotvhes from the touch ups. Why would you sand a chip anyway?
 
i thought laquer thinner would remove th blotvhes from the touch ups. Why would you sand a chip anyway?



For the same reason you apply Langka...To knock down the raised blob, after filling the divot with enough touch up paint to bring it to just above the surrounding areas. You then sand the rasied 'paint pimple' to the level of the surrounding paint. If done right, you knock it down, and then polish it out to remove any telltale sanding marks from teh surrounding surface, and bingo, its indistinguishable!
 
Unigrit block



I have a 3000 grit block, and have been wondering whether I need to add a 1500 or 2000 grit block to my collection...Ive also cut out some small circles of 2000 grit paper, and glued them to the eraser end of some pencils.....I guess with these, I really dont need another block... I seem to recall my block has one brown surface, and the rest are grey...Are anybody else's like this? If so, can you use any of the surfaces, or are you meant to use just the brown surface? Does it matter? they feel about the same.
 
I thought you'd only use the grey sides and I didnt know what the brown end was. I also thought that 2000 grit was all that was necessary then 3M Perfect It and then 3M hand glaze and then wax it. Am I missin anything? Also, the eraser idea is good. what kind of glue do you use? Also. can you buy 3000 and 4000 sandpaper? Can you really make the repair indistinguishable? Maybe I need some tips. Thanks
 
2000 grit is fine....But Im a chicken, so I took the 3K grit, which is fine also... the erasier with glued paper circles works well also...Idont knwo wht kind of glue..any good glue will be fine. I think 2000 paper is what I made teh circles out of.



Another good method, which makes the sanding unnecessary is that product called Langka, which mOthers took over. You just fill the divot with paint, wait at least an hour and up to a day for it to dry well, and then rub with the langka and a piece of cotton stretched over a card, to remove the surrounding blob...It takes off all the touchup paint, exept for whats in the divot...Makes sanding unnecessary...Ive been using this method lately...It saves alot of time!
 
Thanks for the tips. So...is it truly inditinguishable...even when you look close? Thanks



Well, I wouldnt go overboard...In certain light, you know, the kind that reveals Everything, youll still see it. There will be a slightly different texture, and level...But I think its every bit as good as the conventional toucups with building up and knocking down.
 
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