meguiars three step process...did I just waste my money...

I've never used a rotary before, and my experience with a PC is limited to 2 cars so far, but I've been very pleased with the results I've gotten so far with the M105/M205 combo and the PC. I probably could have done it faster(not sure about better) with a rotary with the proper training but since I was going it alone, the PC seemed like the safer alternative. If you look through the pro detailers section here, you'll see that a lot of these guys use a PC for final polishing and some even use it exclusively. I really don't think you should count it out without giving it a shot first.

Yeah, the Flex is probably a better, faster machine as well but it's twice the price, its size limits getting it into tighter spaces, and you are more limited in pad selection from what I understand.

Either way, as long as you practice beforehand, you'll get the results you want from any of the options you're looking at.



As far as the paint runs, someone with more experience can help you with that. My total noob guess is wetsanding if it's in the clearcoat, live with it if it's in the base.
 
Just as an example, I did the passenger side doors, front fender, pillars and half the rear fender on my wife's 02 Civic on Monday. All together, just those panels took me about 3 hours or so with 3-step polishing on the PC. The panels were pretty oxidized, with tons of tiny scratches and swirls galore.



STA72672.jpg




STA72667.jpg




STA72675.jpg




STA72677.jpg




As you can see, the oxidation was what I would consider severe. Also, the back quarter has a scratch that's noticeable in the second pic. I got it out completely, with some effort of course. The second to last pic shows a large scratch above the door handle which I couldn't get out, but it was pretty ugly. I doubt anything would have gotten that one out.



Don't ask why the second pic is black and white. I didn't realize the camera setting had changed, but it shows how bad the oxidation was so I kept the pic.
 
PBNJ- Don't consider a rotary until you have a firm and complete understanding of everything involved in its use. That's a considerable body of knowledge that you won't pick up with just a few hours of study ;)



So stick with the PC or buy a Flex. I'd stick with the PC and 4" pads.



I'd absolutely start with a decontamination system (from Finish Kare or Automotive International/ValuGard) and a good claying.



Actually, I'd start with many hours of studying up on this stuff so you have the requisite knowledge base to pull off a complete detail. There's a reason why the pros here would charge an arm and a leg for what your vehicle needs.



Sorry, I know all this "study the subject" advice is probably the last thing you want to hear, but your situation is sorta like "hey, this house is falling apart and has a foot of water in the basement....how do I fix it up?". Knowing what's what before you start will make a favorable outcome a lot more likely.



What you need to do/understand:



-Decontamination wash

-Clay

-Aggressive compounding via PC/4" pads

-Less aggressive polishing via PC/4" pads

-Last Step Product (wax/sealatn) for protection
 
Accumulator said:
PBNJ- Don't consider a rotary until you have a firm and complete understanding of everything involved in its use. That's a considerable body of knowledge that you won't pick up with just a few hours of study ;)



So stick with the PC or buy a Flex. I'd stick with the PC and 4" pads.



I'd absolutely start with a decontamination system (from Finish Kare or Automotive International/ValuGard) and a good claying.



Actually, I'd start with many hours of studying up on this stuff so you have the requisite knowledge base to pull off a complete detail. There's a reason why the pros here would charge an arm and a leg for what your vehicle needs.



Sorry, I know all this "study the subject" advice is probably the last thing you want to hear, but your situation is sorta like "hey, this house is falling apart and has a foot of water in the basement....how do I fix it up?". Knowing what's what before you start will make a favorable outcome a lot more likely.



What you need to do/understand:



-Decontamination wash

-Clay

-Aggressive compounding via PC/4" pads

-Less aggressive polishing via PC/4" pads

-Last Step Product (wax/sealatn) for protection
Click to expand...



I totally get what youre saying, right to the bone. However I looked at it as reading can only get you so far but practice/experience will actually get you to achieve the best hence why I thought Id practice on a few cars before mine. My problem with keeping the porter is that from what Ive read over and over again on these forums is that it just wont be enough to fix my problems, however the flex and makita can, the only reason I would grab the makita is because its way less pricier than the flex.



Also why 4 inch pads? 5 and 6 not good enough?
 
PBNJ said:
I totally get what youre saying, right to the bone. However I looked at it as reading can only get you so far but practice/experience will actually get you to achieve the best...
Click to expand...



Yeah, I simply differ from most of my fellow Autopians on this one; I'd rather people study more and "overthink" the whole thing a lot more before they start trying stuff. IME people with an incomplete/incorrect understanding of what's gonna happen (and why and how) are the ones who have those horrible "oops!" situations...and then they often ask "what happened?". At that point, when it's too late, I think to myself "if you knew what happened and why, it wouldn't have happened in the first place". Gee, don't I sound harsh :o

My problem with keeping the porter is that from what Ive read over and over again on these forums is that it just wont be enough to fix my problems, however the flex and makita can, the only reason I would grab the makita is because its way less pricier than the flex...
Click to expand...



Finishing out 100% hologram-free via rotary is very difficult. I've used rotaries for quite a while and I can't do it. You'll still need the PC for that final going-over unless you're unusually gifted when it comes to running the rotary.



The Flex has proved so capable that I haven't touched my rotaries since I got it, and it's pretty close to foolproof. The cost diff isn't much compared to having one panel repainted ;)



Also why 4 inch pads? 5 and 6 not good enough?
Click to expand...



The 4" pads utterly transform the PC and make it capable of doing very serious correction. The larger pads are, in my considerable experience, a complete waste of time by comparison. It's a night-and-day difference. You actually have to be a little careful with the 4" pads because the combo can be so aggressive. It's because the larger pads cause too much friction when you put pressure on the PC; the rotation stops and the machine just "jiggles". Remember that it's supposed to be a finish sander, spinning one sheet of sandpaper, with zero applied pressure; using it to polish cars is something they never considered back when they designed the thing. Which is probably why the recently came out with the more powerful "XP" model.



I do spot-correction on my Audis with the PC/4". It cuts the hard clear just fine.
 
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