Meguiars G110v2 vs Flex XC 3401

Roadrunner said:
I have a Flex VRG, love it. I have a PC, not a G110, so I can't comment on that although I hear they're great machines. One thing I really like about the Flex is it doesn't beat my hands up like a PC... not sure how the G110 is, vibration-wise, I imagine it's like a PC?

The Flex is a quality machine, never had a problem with it. I love the trigger mechanism and how you can ramp up to speed slowly if you need to like a modern rotary.
I seem to be able to do better corrective work, with less effort, with the Flex as well... that probably has something to do with the forced rotation of the Flex.
I've been doing a "modified KBM" thing lately with the Flex, using Meg's 105/205 combination and it works SO nice. Basically the same technique but you use less pressure with the Flex, and maybe a little less speed, although I'm usually on "6" in the middle of a panel... then ramp the speed down as I let off on the pressure. I can get 105 to finish out almost LSP ready everytime with a Flex.

The downside of the Flex is the backing plate's only one size. I just keep another machine, either the PC or a rotary, handy with a smaller plate to do the tight areas.

For an orbital/DA type unit, I vote for the Flex.
Click to expand...
With KBM, isn't it mandatory to keep the same amount of pressure throughout the buffing cycle? I understand to use less pressure overall with the Flex...
 
With non-diminishing abrasives as in the Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds, you have to decided when you want to let up some on the pressure.
With new paint, you have a less chance of hurting it, but on old detailed alot paint you have to be more careful.

I always look at the panel Im going to do, note the problem areas if any and buff there longer and hopefully be able to see with good light, that the problem scratches, etc., are going away.
Then, you can choose to lighten up a few more passes and wipe off and see what it looks like.

Along the way, you will learn how much is enough product on which pad, cleaning pads during the process, and how much moisture do you want/need to help the process along.

With diminishing abrasives, like for me the Menzerna line, I can run those down with a finishing pad to almost nothing if I want to, and this will further refine the clarity of the finish.

For example, I just detailed a beautiful Merlot color BMW Z4, 5 years old, 5 years worth of swirls from hand washing, a few scratches where it got hit with keys, etc.,

I used Meguiars 205 with a Orange 5" L/C pad, Meguiars 34 Q/D for moisture on the pad, and a Makita Rotary.
This took 1 pass to get out all the scratches, etc., and then I went back with Menzerna 85RD and a L/C Black 5" pad, rotary and wow, it was so clear which we all know = shiny, very shiny!
Customer was stunned and said that they thought the finish was really a brownish color, but after cleaning, they were very happy it wasnt really brown at all.

You will figure out ways to do this, different combo's and what works best for you and the vehicle at that time.

Thats the beauty of all this; you have to be constantly thinking, working and learning, as there are no set hard and fast rules, alot of great guidelines and products, and stuff but you are literally making up your prescription for this particular work each time you go out there.

Keep checking in, read, read, and read, ( I know it makes me sleepy too :)
and we will do our best to help you think things through based on our experiences, etc..

Dan F
 
If you are a pro detailer, it may make since to have both. I sometimes will have my Flex fitted with a 6.5 inch pad and my UDM (very similar to the PCXP, G110, etc.) fitted with a 4 inch pad. When I am working on large areas (roof, hood, trunk, doors, etc.) I will use my Flex and get through those areas quickly due to its increased power and the larger pad covering more real estate while polishing. When I get to tight areas, I will grab my UDM. Not having to switch backing plates and pads does speed things up more than you would think.
 
Great advice so far. The best bet, although not the most realistic is to test drive the different models if you can.

The Flex has a maximum RPM of 480 (similar to a super slow speed rotary) but also osicilates at a maximum of 4800 OPM. It always will make 10 orbits per rotation (gear driven).

The V2 has a maximum speed of 6800 OPM (faster then the flex) but the RPMs are not driven. They can vary between 0 to probably a top end of 300 or so.

Face value the Flex has more power (the pad will still rotate at near maximum speed under pressure where as the V2 will slow dramatically), but this doesn't always translate to better/faster polishing.

In most cases the Flex will have more power, but not always. The V2 is more comfortable to use (IMO) and has near the cutting power, particularly when paired up with 4 inch pads.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
With KBM, isn't it mandatory to keep the same amount of pressure throughout the buffing cycle? I understand to use less pressure overall with the Flex...
Click to expand...

It's my understanding that towards the end of the cycle you lighten up on the pressure a bit. That's what I've been doing and it works very well.
The "heavy pressure" bit is the defect correcting phase, after the defect's been dealt with, you lighten up on the down force and that will take care of any marring caused by the pressure used to repair the defect.
You end up with a finish that looks so good that you think it's LSP ready. A quick trip around the car with M205 and a black pad and it you've got some serious gloss going on.
 
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