Meguiars 9 Swirl remover 2.0

jbusch417 said:
Yes, after looking around the rest of the car, I'd say the finish is similar on the hood as it is the rest of the car so I do not plan on doing any wet sanding. re #7, I see that all over but I heard it has sealant in it, therefore I wouldn't want to apply it to my new finish until the paint cures. re #5, I checked auto paint supply stores and no go. re DC#2, I see that everywhere too but I don't know if it is safe for my new paint. I don't want to risk applying something that may seal the curing paint. How can I tell what products seal and which ones can be used on fresh paint?:nervous:



Smart move, not wetsanding :xyxthumbs



The #7 used to be called "sealer and reseal glaze" but that's in reference to old-school lacquer paint and the word "sealant" isn't being used in the same context as "don't seal fresh paint".



#7 and Deep Crystal step #2 Polish are safe for fresh paint. Really. I understand if you don't want to trust me (Mr. semi-anonymous voice on the internet) but I've used those products (as well as #5) since forever on fresh paint, they are OK for it. You can call Meguiars, or check out Meguiar's Online for their official word on the subject.



IMO the best way to tell which products are safe is to just err on the side of caution. The Meguiar's Pure Polishes (#3/#5/#7/#81/DC #2) *are* safe,and they're all *almost* the same thing, very similar products. So is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. So is the Mother's glaze. These products don't wax or seal the finish and the have all been tested/approved for this application by the people who make them and are approved by the paint manufacturers. They've also been tested in the field by people like us for many, many years (I first used #7 on a fresh repaint in '77, first used #5 a year before that). These products are so safe for paint/etc. that most of them are considered "paintable", they don't seal the finish at all (but rather let vapor/etc. right through) and they wash right off.



Avoid anything that contains wax. *I* also avoid the sealants, though some say they're OK; I've just never heard explanations for *why* they're OK that I found compelling. Not saying they *aren't* OK, but I don't see any reason why I oughta trust some explanation I can't follow when I can just use the glaze instead.
 
Accumulator said:
Smart move, not wetsanding :xyxthumbs



The #7 used to be called "sealer and reseal glaze" but that's in reference to old-school lacquer paint and the word "sealant" isn't being used in the same context as "don't seal fresh paint".



#7 and Deep Crystal step #2 Polish are safe for fresh paint. Really. I understand if you don't want to trust me (Mr. semi-anonymous voice on the internet) but I've used those products (as well as #5) since forever on fresh paint, they are OK for it. You can call Meguiars, or check out Meguiar's Online for their official word on the subject.



IMO the best way to tell which products are safe is to just err on the side of caution. The Meguiar's Pure Polishes (#3/#5/#7/#81/DC #2) *are* safe,and they're all *almost* the same thing, very similar products. So is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. So is the Mother's glaze. These products don't wax or seal the finish and the have all been tested/approved for this application by the people who make them and are approved by the paint manufacturers. They've also been tested in the field by people like us for many, many years (I first used #7 on a fresh repaint in '77, first used #5 a year before that). These products are so safe for paint/etc. that most of them are considered "paintable", they don't seal the finish at all (but rather let vapor/etc. right through) and they wash right off.



Avoid anything that contains wax. *I* also avoid the sealants, though some say they're OK; I've just never heard explanations for *why* they're OK that I found compelling. Not saying they *aren't* OK, but I don't see any reason why I oughta trust some explanation I can't follow when I can just use the glaze instead.



Thanks for the detailed explanation! :2thumbs: I noticed that you didn't include #9 in your list of safe but the bottle says body shop safe so I think I'm fine. It looks like I can easily get DC#2 and #7. I have #9. Which would you recommend I use the next time? Is one more advantageous over the other from your experience? Thanks for the tips!!:buffing:
 
jbusch417- Sorry, I didn't think of the #9 (which tells you how seldom I use it ;) ). Yeah, it's OK to use too.



Which to choose: I'd go by what level of abrasiveness you need for the #2/#83/#80/#9 decision (those're listed strong to weak).



For the nonabrasive stuff (#3/#5/#7/#81/DC#2), I like the #5 because it's *so* user-friendly and the DC#2 is pretty easy too. The #7 looks better but some find it a PIA (the #3 and #81 are in-between). I guess I'd steer you towards the DC#2 for a quick OTC option. This choice isn't really all that critical IMO since you're just doing *something* while the paint cures. But I like the #5 so much that *maybe* you oughta just order a bottle of it :nixweiss
 
Accumulator said:
jbusch417- Sorry, I didn't think of the #9 (which tells you how seldom I use it ;) ). Yeah, it's OK to use too.



Which to choose: I'd go by what level of abrasiveness you need for the #2/#83/#80/#9 decision (those're listed strong to weak).



For the nonabrasive stuff (#3/#5/#7/#81/DC#2), I like the #5 because it's *so* user-friendly and the DC#2 is pretty easy too. The #7 looks better but some find it a PIA (the #3 and #81 are in-between). I guess I'd steer you towards the DC#2 for a quick OTC option. This choice isn't really all that critical IMO since you're just doing *something* while the paint cures. But I like the #5 so much that *maybe* you oughta just order a bottle of it :nixweiss





I'm sold! I think I'll order some #5 and will give it a go! How long does it last? One rain storm and a wash? Since my MX-5 is rather small, I don't mind applying it :waxing: more frequently in an effort to offer the paint some protection until it cures.
 
jbusch417 said:
I'm sold! I think I'll order some #5 and will give it a go! How long does it last? One rain storm and a wash? Since my MX-5 is rather small, I don't mind applying it :waxing: more frequently in an effort to offer the paint some protection until it cures.



I'm utterly confident that you'll like the #5 (well, for what it is ;) ). Yeah, figure that after a rainy period you'll want to clean it up anyhow, and after the wash to do that the #5 will be gone. Oughta go fast and easy reapplying to the MX-5, sounds like a perfect application. If you find any contamination that's still there after the wash, I'd clean it off *every gently* with some Sonus green clay rather than rubbing harder or using some more aggressive product. Be very gentle on the paint as it cures and gets harder and you'll be glad you did ;)
 
Accumulator said:
I'm utterly confident that you'll like the #5 (well, for what it is ;) ). Yeah, figure that after a rainy period you'll want to clean it up anyhow, and after the wash to do that the #5 will be gone. Oughta go fast and easy reapplying to the MX-5, sounds like a perfect application. If you find any contamination that's still there after the wash, I'd clean it off *every gently* with some Sonus green clay rather than rubbing harder or using some more aggressive product. Be very gentle on the paint as it cures and gets harder and you'll be glad you did ;)





The #5 is on order!



Unrelated question: Would you clay bar before or after #80/#9? (another car) :waxing:
 
Claying is always done before any polishing/waxing and after a good wash. It will get the contamination particles out so that the polish can work effectively.
 
mikebai1990 said:
Claying is always done before any polishing/waxing and after a good wash. It will get the contamination particles out so that the polish can work effectively.





Thanks! That's what I thought but I never "clayed" before (virgin clayer) :scared:
 
Accumulator said:
I'm utterly confident that you'll like the #5 (well, for what it is ;) ). Yeah, figure that after a rainy period you'll want to clean it up anyhow, and after the wash to do that the #5 will be gone. Oughta go fast and easy reapplying to the MX-5, sounds like a perfect application. If you find any contamination that's still there after the wash, I'd clean it off *every gently* with some Sonus green clay rather than rubbing harder or using some more aggressive product. Be very gentle on the paint as it cures and gets harder and you'll be glad you did ;)





Hey Accumulator - Just wanted to let you know that I love the #5 which you suggested!! I've used it twice and love how easy it is to work with. Love the blue color as well! :clap:
 
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