Meguiars 9 Swirl remover 2.0

J

jbusch417

New member
I tried searching but the search tool doesn't like the "Meguiars 9" or "Meguiars #9" as it returns all threads with "Meguiars"...



Is this product safe to use on a fresh two week old paint job (w/clear coat)? I have a few super fine scratches on my new paint thanks to the body shop detail boy and didn't realize it until after I got home 40 miles later... I want to use a very mild glaze that will not seal up my paint which is still curing. The paint supply store sold me #9. After reading a bit, I understand that this product may seal/fill in the paint. Advice needed.:thx
 
Scottwax said:
#9 has very mild abrasives that will remove light defects.
Click to expand...





Please confirm that the paint can still breath/degas if I use this product (unlike the NXT that I used previously). Thanks.
 
I read your other thread. I would have made another suggestion if #9 would interfere with the curing process.
 
az57chevy said:
Let the paint vure 45 days (longer if really cold) BEFORE you try to fix issues
Click to expand...



That can be good advice, but there are always ifs/ands/buts...



If something really bugs you it might be easier to polish it out now before the paint achieves normal hardness (after a few weeks) and the paintshop quite possibly already wetsanded/compounded/polished it before you even picked the car up. But sometimes freshly shot paint is too soft (it just micromars) to work and you need to let it harden for a few weeks first.



I go both ways..but I never try for my final finish until it's finished outgassing. Between the months of minimal protection, the likelihood that somethig will happen during that time, and the possible extra-soft-paint issue, I usually wait. But I'd bet that a quick application of #9 would make things look a bit better at least until after the next wash (when the "fillers"/trade secret oils get washed away). I'd pick up a pure polish for regular use during the outgassing period though.
 
az57chevy said:
Let the paint vure 45 days (longer if really cold) BEFORE you try to fix issues
Click to expand...



Paint shops will wetsand and buff out fresh paint. No need to wait to correct problems, you just can't seal paint until it is fully cured.
 
Offtopic, but does anybody know why the forum doesn't allow searching for "9" and all those other terms? It makes searching very hard. I usually have to go to google to do a "site:" search instead.



jbusch, I also started a thread on meguiars #9 a while ago, (I can't find it because of the same problems you had). The general consensus was that #9 is quite mild but should be able to take out light swirls and the such.
 
mikebai1990 said:
Offtopic, but does anybody know why the forum doesn't allow searching for "9" and all those other terms? It makes searching very hard. I usually have to go to google to do a "site:" search instead.



jbusch, I also started a thread on meguiars #9 a while ago, (I can't find it because of the same problems you had). The general consensus was that #9 is quite mild but should be able to take out light swirls and the such.
Click to expand...





Thanks. If I were able to get the search to work, I could have avoided starting a new thread. I plan to do the #9 this weekend, but by hand. Should I go out and buy an inexpensive buffer or go the "by hand" route?
 
IMO it's just the way they set up the search perameters, you need more alpha characters (the "#" and "9" aren't what the search code is set up to use).



jbusch417- The #9 is *so* mild that it doesn't do much correction unless you use it with a rotary. It does do a *little* though, and it fills/conceals pretty well too. Within its inherent limitations it's OK stuff.



I'd just use it by hand for now. IMO buying anything cheaper than a PC is just a waste of money. Spend the money of very soft MFs and some fresh-paint-friendly glaze (I like Meg's #5 the best) instead.
 
Scottwax said:
Paint shops will wetsand and buff out fresh paint. No need to wait to correct problems, you just can't seal paint until it is fully cured.
Click to expand...



Not True- Zaino can be used on fresh paint and I'm sure there are others.
 
Scottwax said:
#9 has very mild abrasives that will remove light defects.
Click to expand...



you have a lot of experience and a lot of time with megs so i trust you, but from my use and understanding #9 has no abrasives and it will only hide (fill in) scratches. it is a cleaner/filler product more than a polish. would you agree or disagree?
 
SubyDude said:
you have a lot of experience and a lot of time with megs so i trust you, but from my use and understanding #9 has no abrasives and it will only hide (fill in) scratches. it is a cleaner/filler product more than a polish. would you agree or disagree?
Click to expand...

I have also used #9 and would disagree that it is just a claner/filler. It does have abrasive/corrective properties, just minimal. You might want to check Meg's online forum and see what they say.
 
SubyDude said:
..[ScottWax] you have a lot of experience and a lot of time with megs so i trust you, but from my use and understanding #9 has no abrasives and it will only hide (fill in) scratches. it is a cleaner/filler product more than a polish. would you agree or disagree?
Click to expand...



Hope ScottWax doesn't mind my answering, I feel qualified as I've used #9 on single stage...it *does* contain abrasives, but they're so mild that the stuff is *functionally* nonabrasive on most paints unless you use a rotary. Take it to some (not oxidized or otherwise imperfect) black ss lacquer some time and you'll see what I mean- you'll get color transfer even by hand. But on something like Audi clear, forget it. It's so mild that pointing out that it does have abrasives is sorta splitting hairs in most cases.. so it's pretty much just a theoretical discussion. But on certain *very* soft paints, stuff that's almost-but-not-quite nonabrasive can be just the ticket.
 
well perhaps you guys have had better luck than i. i have used it on my black subaru which has soft paint and it has been far from satisfactory.



the description on most pages read just life this: #9 Swirl Remover is completely non-abrasive and safe for all paints, including clear coats and the cleaner ingredients blast sediments out of the defects and off of the paint as the polishing emollients round over the hard edges of swirls or scratches and literally fill in the gaps.



I suppose it might work on some very very small defects. I just never had enough luck with it to keep it in my repitoir.
 
Hi,



There is a post of its correcting ablitlies on here by DAVE KG, i would link to it by internet is messed up right now and takes about 5 mins to load a page.



What is this like by hand before it breaks down??



Thanks

Geoff
 
Hey Scottwax :



Haven't you used : Autoint's Fast Finish before if so how did you like pros/cons.



thanx mongo
 
Well, I "invested" $19 in a Coleman 6" orbital :hm and applied the #9 several times this morning. The container suggests that this has a "cut" of #3 while #80 has a cut of #4. While the paint looks good (the occasional fine scratches are gone - created by the body shop detailing boy :wall ) My clear coat could use a bit more buffing (there's still some very fine orange peel on the hood). I figure I should wait some more time and then perhaps hit it with #80 followed by the #9 or #5 (couldn't find #5 anywhere locally today), or I may just hit it with more #9 (or #5 if I can find it). Thoughts?
 
jbusch417- Don't even think about diminishing orangepeel with the PC, that's what sandpaper's for and I sorta doubt you want to get into that (I wouldn't). FWIW, the texture of the repainted areas oughta match the texture on the rest of the car, that's part of what the painters are supposed to accomplish and if it's really different I'd have a talk with them.



I'd probably say "good enough for now" and let it harden for a while (track down some #80 in the meantime). #5 can be hard to find, so you might have better luck locating either #7 or Deep Crystal step #2 polish. The #7 looks better but the DC#2 is easier to use. An autobody/paint supply place might have the #5, check the yellow pages.



Maybe you'll prove me wrong about "anything less than the PC being a waste of money" :D Hope the Coleman makes things a little easier for you.
 
Accumulator said:
jbusch417- Don't even think about diminishing orangepeel with the PC, that's what sandpaper's for and I sorta doubt you want to get into that (I wouldn't). FWIW, the texture of the repainted areas oughta match the texture on the rest of the car, that's part of what the painters are supposed to accomplish and if it's really different I'd have a talk with them.



I'd probably say "good enough for now" and let it harden for a while (track down some #80 in the meantime). #5 can be hard to find, so you might have better luck locating either #7 or Deep Crystal step #2 polish. The #7 looks better but the DC#2 is easier to use. An autobody/paint supply place might have the #5, check the yellow pages.



Maybe you'll prove me wrong about "anything less than the PC being a waste of money" :D Hope the Coleman makes things a little easier for you.
Click to expand...



Yes, after looking around the rest of the car, I'd say the finish is similar on the hood as it is the rest of the car so I do not plan on doing any wet sanding. re #7, I see that all over but I heard it has sealant in it, therefore I wouldn't want to apply it to my new finish until the paint cures. re #5, I checked auto paint supply stores and no go. re DC#2, I see that everywhere too but I don't know if it is safe for my new paint. I don't want to risk applying something that may seal the curing paint. How can I tell what products seal and which ones can be used on fresh paint?:nervous:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top