Meguiar's #9 followed by #20

Intermezzo said:
Wait a sec... are you sure Mother's S/G is body shop safe? There really is no mention of it at all on the bottle nor the website. Furthermore, it's a very "OTC" type of product aimed towards the general public, not bodyshops. Also, I'd be hesitant about using any QD except for Z-6. Most QD's contain silicone oil, which is not body-shop safe. However, I highly doubt the amount of product left by a QD would actually "seal" in the solvents on a repainted surface.
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I just asked forrest first. :D Also, check out the 3rd paragraph from the bottom: http://www.mothers.com/carcare/faq/faq.html



About the QD thing, I'm not sure, which is why I said "might". I'm pretty sure Showroom or someone else terribly knowledgable was the one that said a QD might be okay not long ago... :nixweiss
 
2wheelsx2 said:
As for whether the Mother's S/G is BodyShop safe or not, isn't that academic? Aren't we only worried about silicones if we are going to paint over it? The paint is already on the car, so the glaze is just a minor polishing, and light UV protection step isn't it?
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True... typically a "body-shop safe" product should contain no ingredients that will affect "Paint Adhesion", typically waxes or silicones. However, another resulting characteristic of this is that it will not semi-permanently "seal" or "Cap" the pores of the paint. Waxes, sealants, synthetics, polymers, whatever you prefer to call them act to semi-permanently seal or cap the pores of the paint because of their silicone & wax content. The argument here is that, when used on solvent-borne paints (even catalyzed paints) it allows the solvents to continue to work their way out of the paint resin through "capillary-action", (I think). The idea being that paint that is fully cured will be harder and last longer than paint that is not fully cured, i.e. softer and will not last as long. How important this truly is to repainted surfaces using a catalyzed paint is a subject that can be debated quite extensively. I know that paint manufactures "Still" recommend waiting 30/60/90 days before you apply any type of product containing silicone to the surface. It might be best to follow manufactures recommendations when dealing with something as expensive as a new paint job.



With that said, I still trust Sal and Zaino'd away on my repainted bumper. Also, since Mother's Sealer/Glaze (w/no topper) will not last very long, perhaps it WON'T cause any issues when applied on a freshly repainted surface.



:::::Edit::::: Brian, I typed this before reading your post. OK, gotcha...that clears it up! Thanks!
 
You know, after all these threads, I might have to got back to using Mother's S/G. I find #7 to be streaky and harder to apply right, and the S/G always gave me great results before. I just can't use it on top of #20 I guess, since Brian found that it strips #20. :(
 
Thank you 4dsc! God bless you.:D



I went to Home Outfitter today, and they had two kinds of Charisma, one kind is on sale and one kind is the "New&Improved" version. The later one costs almost twice as much, but somehow I feel the one on sale is more plush, funny. I knew I've seen that name a thousand times, it's so big right on the Lansdowne mall buildin! which I pass by every other day or so.
 
Hum...



Acourding to the bodyshop, he said that I should be able to wax the area imediately since the car was baked in a 200 deg oven for a few hours and the paint should be fully cured.. BUT.. I'm still going to go through the precautionarly steps of waiting 1-2 months before waxing. The car is parked outdoors and unfortunally, fairly close to a few evergreen trees. I basically need all the protection I can find. That said.



Intermezzo mentioned that silicons should not be applied to the repainted surface but on this thread:

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15856&highlight=repaint+glaze



the 3m finishing glaze was highly recomdended, the poster also did mention that it contained silicones.......



As for the s100 SEPC, I remember reading on some site that it does have some cleaning (amit very little) properities to it. being that it is 'slightly" abrasive, I would defently keep it off the repainted areas.



If I was going to buy a glaze for the re-painted areas, I would like to be able to use it on the rest of the car also (feel kinda waste full to only buy the galze for one body pannel)... Which body shop safe glaze would you guys recomend me using? I will be using it on either/both 2 cars, a silver matrix and a dark blue subaru. Both cars are waxed every 2 weeks with s100. If a certain glaze would work better on a certain colour, could you plz specify.



Thanks.
 
JL9000 said:
Thank you 4dsc! God bless you.:D
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Umm... woah. Never heard that before! You're welcome. :D





Jonney, one thing about the word "silicones" though is that it doesn't say if it's a good or bad silicone. There are many types. I'm not hugely knowledgable about glazes, but if you want to buy a glaze that you can use later with a normal waxing routine you probably can't go wrong with any of the popular glazes here, like #7, IHG, or the up and coming Mothers Sealer and Glaze. Try searching around for some opinions on these.
 
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