Meguiars #7 usage

R

ron231

New member
The other day I went arund looking for the spray nanowax since it was recomended to me as a good spray filler by other forum members. I didnt want to order it online since eagle one is otc, easier to get in person and not wait/pay for shipping.



Anyway, called up peps, said they only have wax-as-u-dry not the regular nanowax spray, so i went over to a small local auto parts store who also didnt have it but did have megs #7 glaze. I have heard this has decent filling/depth enhancing properties so I bought it.



I dont intend for it to replace the nnowax spray, thats more for quick 2x a week boosters (not to mention my daily QDing)



My question is how do I properly use the #7, and is it ok if i do not strip off my sealant first? I know i am supposed to wax over it or else it has poor durability, but just how poor is this durability? Also how ood is #7 at filling swirls by hand application?
 
I came back here this afternoon to ask this exact question about Megs #7.

I have been told to apply it on top of the sealant (Klasse SG for example) and then to apply your "Wax" on top of this, as #7 has no real protection. #7 has an enviable track record as a beauty glaze on show cars but I don't know, but really want to know how it would hold up between the Klasse SG and the final wax. My final wax will be Chemical guys 50/50.



Sorry to but in on your post ron231, it seems we both want to know the same thing.



Changeling
 
BlueLibby04 said:
#7 is a pure polish..



I apply it after I clean the paint(clay, DC #1), the put NXT, and #26 over that. :chuckle:
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does NXT have cleaners in it?

if so it will remove some/all of the #7
 
I dunno about some of the things people do with #7...but whatever floats your boat :nixweiss I myself only use it for four things: as a (short-lived) LSP on fresh repaints; for a temporary beauty treatment (think car shows, etc.), especially on ss lacquer; to rehydrate old, dried-out, oxidized ss (again, especially lacquer); for a glaze-effect under a wax (and I'd make that a heavy carnauba).



Supposedly the cleaners in NXT are so mild that they won't disturb products such as #7. Meguiar's says that combos like this will work fine. Mike Phillips always acts like people over-state the cleaning abilities of NXT, and he oughta know. It's *NOT* supposed to be a cleaner-wax in the usual sense.
 
I've used this combo (#7 followed by NXT) for years and it is very wet looking.



Image-CC50C976251911D9.jpg
 
Hmm well i am still confused on application technique, how thin should it be, regular or more along the lines of klasse SG "so thin you cant see it". Also the bottle says not to let it dry?



And as I asked in my first post, for you people that have used it how are its filling capabilities?
 
I apply it very thin with a PC. I use a polishing pad at speed 3. It is not intended to dry so I remove it panel at a time. To remove I use a 100% cotton towel to cut the film and finish with a microfiber. It is not necessary to remove all of the film as the LSP will remove any excess when you apply that. The key to easy removal is a thin application.
 
jfelbab said:
I apply it very thin with a PC. I use a polishing pad at speed 3. It is not intended to dry so I remove it panel at a time. To remove I use a 100% cotton towel to cut the film and finish with a microfiber. It is not necessary to remove all of the film as the LSP will remove any excess when you apply that. The key to easy removal is a thin application.
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Sounds good, but i dont have a PC yet. If #7 is basically oil shouldnt it not really matter if I apply it by hand or does pc make a big diff? Or is it oil with abrasives? I certainly hope its no abrasives and all filler cause thats what I am looking for.
 
ron231 said:
Hmm well i am still confused on application technique, how thin should it be, regular or more along the lines of klasse SG "so thin you cant see it". Also the bottle says not to let it dry?
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Super-thin. It needs to be wiped off while wet, but it's got a bad tendency to smear around on clearcoated paints. I know that other members have had pretty good success with it, but personally I'd try to return it and get #5 if you can - I never got the knack of removing #7 down, and I've been detailing for a while.
 
ron231 said:
Sounds good, but i dont have a PC yet. If #7 is basically oil shouldnt it not really matter if I apply it by hand or does pc make a big diff? Or is it oil with abrasives? I certainly hope its no abrasives and all filler cause thats what I am looking for.
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I have done it by hand too. Just keep it thin and you don't need to rub it in like an abrasive polish. You are just looking for even coverage. It contains no abrasives.
 
It makes it alot easier to let #7 skin over, then remove it.



It is a pure polish.. Pure, meaning that it contains nothing but polish.. Its pure.. :2thumbs:
 
WOW!! Seems i shouldve read this post before I posted mine. So you can use it over wax as long as you wax over it? or no? does it go before, after or the is it the same as glaze? If you have to take the wax off first...what is the best way to do this?



(sorry to but in... hope u dont mind since its still on topic)
 
Another pure polish that works very well, easier than #7 (Show Car Glaze) and doesn't dust as much as #5 (New Car Glaze) is #81 (Professional Hand Polish). This is also a pure polish a.k.a. glaze and goes on and comes off much easier than #7. That said #7 yields the wettest look of any of Meguiar's pure polishes.



I frequently apply a coat of #7 over my LSP just prior to showing my MR2. It does not remove the LSP. The normal usage is, of course, to apply it before the LSP. The LSP will seal the glaze and that keeps the wet look longer.
 
jfelbab said:
Another pure polish that works very well, easier than #7 (Show Car Glaze) and doesn't dust as much as #5 (New Car Glaze) is #81 (Professional Hand Polish). This is also a pure polish a.k.a. glaze and goes on and comes off much easier than #7. That said #7 yields the wettest look of any of Meguiar's pure polishes.



I frequently apply a coat of #7 over my LSP just prior to showing my MR2. It does not remove the LSP. The normal usage is, of course, to apply it before the LSP. The LSP will seal the glaze and that keeps the wet look longer.
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Thanks for this. I bought #7, #20 and #26 based on what I've read here. This recommendation further confirms #7s usage(s) and where it fits in the chain. I plan to use #7, seal it with #20 and use #26 for the top coat and keep that one fresh. Great feedback!
 
Anyone ever try to use #7 to fill? Success?



by the way thanks for ur help jfelbab, and ur mr2 is a beauty!
 
I've applied #7 by hand but I usually use a PC as it makes the task easier and lays down a thinner more even coat.



Another tip about removal. Don't worry about streaking on removal. Any streaking that might remain after removal of #7 goes away when you apply your LSP. I don't buff this stuff off like an LSP. I just remove it and move on to the LSP.



OTOH, when I use #7 over my LSP prior to a show, I use a WOWO method and do a smaller section at a time to avoid any streaking.
 
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