Meguiars #21 Mini-Review

SDLexus said:
AFAIK, Meguiar's sealants are formulated to sheet not bead, which IMHO, is better. There is less risk of hard water etching or mineral deposits on the surface since beads tend to sit on the surface and dry that way.
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Exactly right SDlexus Ron Ketchum af Autoint explained it that way has something to with the chemical process that it goes through.



> Scottwax has said the best way to apply NXt tech wax or 21 is over a sealant will not bond good over oily products ie Meg' polishes.



So if I used it would be put over aquawax.



And Joshua thanx for all the info.



mongo
 
well if it beads initially and then sheets something must have been removed from the surface of the sealant. Whether that is oil, silicone or actual product is the question. If it continues to bead in the rain I'd guess it's safe to say that some product remains.
 
I've been looking into getting a sealant. Will M21 bond to a glaze? RMG or Omega Glaze to be specific.
 
Hmm...I'm intrigued. I hope this isn't a stupid question, but would I be able to layer it with Souveran to get the darkening ability and durability of M21 with the depth of Souveran?
 
From my experience I have had no problems with #21 bonding over RMG or #7. I orginally thought I did when I was experinceing horrible streaking and smearing, but Megs replaced my #21 and now its good to go.



Here is a picture of a Vette's hood after being (orginally was rotary buffed using #84/7006 pad at 1500 rpm and 83/8006 pad at 1200 rpm) polished by #80 and two coats of #21. The owner no longer uses Zaino, FWIW...



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Here is a couple of more of the same Vette



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Here is a gray blue Sebring, clayed then sealed with #21 for 2 coats...



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A forum members' black Ram, rotary buffed with #83, PC'd with #80, glazed with #7, then a coat of #21



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Black H3, rotary with #84x2, #83x1, PCed with #66, then followed up with #21



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Plus we have all seen Superior Shine's work, and he uses #21 like crazy.
 
Great pics!



Setec, when it is completely dead, the water will stick/pool/cling on the surface - covering the panels with an even uniform film - as we see it on completely unprotected cars. Ironically, these cars are drying a lot sooner (and usually spotless) than well-protected/sealed ones.
 
The beading then sheeting is a chemical process that happens Ron Kethum explained it but can't remeber exactly waht he said somethin about some part of the sealant had to gas out or something like that .



mongo
 
Bence said:
...as we see it on completely unprotected cars. Ironically, these cars are drying a lot sooner (and usually spotless) than well-protected/sealed ones.
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I started a thread once about whether beading was a double-edged sword causing acid rain/water spot damage...
 
OK, so now I'm convinced that M21 needs to be on my shopping list. Been using Meg's #26 wax and #7 glaze on my dark blue '04 G35 Coupe with great results. I even gave up using my tried and true #16 because of this combination. Even the wifie noticed the difference!



Do I need to remove the glaze and wax or will M21 apply over that without problems? Do I apply anything on top of M21? 64oz will last forever!





I'm confused now... :eek:
 
I would strip all waxes you have on your car now to get the true look of M21, then if you want to I would top it with Aquawax after your washes for the perfect look.
 
LMG_35C said:
OK, so now I'm convinced that M21 needs to be on my shopping list. Been using Meg's #26 wax and #7 glaze on my dark blue '04 G35 Coupe with great results. I even gave up using my tried and true #16 because of this combination. Even the wifie noticed the difference!



Do I need to remove the glaze and wax or will M21 apply over that without problems? Do I apply anything on top of M21? 64oz will last forever!





I'm confused now... :eek:
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You don't have to remove your previous applications of #7 or #26. Everything in the tan bottles is formulated to work together. I prefer M21 x2 without any topper. It looks great on its own. There is a 16 oz bottle of M21 available from Meguiar's if you don't need the 64 oz jug. With M21 a little goes a long way; it is very easy to work with and apply thin layers.



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Now that I have gone through some of my massive quantities of LSPs, I'll have to snag a bottle of #21 next time I am at my Meguiars distributor.
 
SDLexus said:
Everything in the tan bottles is formulated to work together. I prefer M21 x2 without any topper.
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The word I have gotten from Meg's is that ALL of their products are formulated to work together. For example, I have used both NXT and #21 over #7 and have not noticed any problems with bonding with either LSP.
 
One of the things I liked about the DG 105 and the AW was it made my charcoal gray truck lighter looking, more towards silver then black. Also made the mettalic pop out. Has anyone tried the 21 on a mettalic paint?
 
In my opinion both NXT and #21 give metallic more pop than your standard carnuba. I really am a fan of NXT topped with GC on dark metallic paints. The NXT seems to add pop and wetness to the metallic and the GC adds some depth.
 
I am super impressed with my NXT topped with S100. On my car (blue/purple metallic gray) it looks dripping wet and glows in the sun.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
Gold Class has cleaners, so layering it over next isn't really doing anything other than replacing the NXT with the GC.
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The cleaners in GC are very mild...I'd doubt they would strip the NXT
 
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