Meguiars 105 users

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Do you use the product on a wool or foam pad? With the product so strong I am a little worried about using a wool pad and a rotary. I would like to use a foam but I dont want to spend all day on the car.
 
You can use either. If you search you'll see many instances of individuals using foam or wool in varying aggressiveness. With that said, many prefer the use of M105 with the Lake Country purple foamed wool.
 
joed1228- So far I've only used it with foam, but I think that you could be safe enough with wool. It won't heat up as quickly as foam and you could get a mild wool pad that won't have a whole lot of cut.



I've sometimes thought about trying the M105 on an Edge/Presta/etc. brand lambswool finishing pad, which wouldn't contribute any cut of its own and would make for quicker pad cleaning (via spurring) compared to foam. You *do* have to keep foam pads clean with the M105, especially if you do the "reactivate with water/QD" thing, and cleaning foam pads can be a much bigger chore than spurring a wool one.
 
joed1228 said:
Do you use the product on a wool or foam pad?
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I've used both.



With the product so strong I am a little worried about using a wool pad and a rotary. I would like to use a foam but I dont want to spend all day on the car.
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I've found M105 to be one of the most versatile polishes/compounds I've ever used. Using different pads and graduating pressure allows you to control the cut. On a troublesome, heavily swirled finish I've used LC PFW with excellent results. It occasionally took a 2nd pass. I have yet to use a more aggressive wool pad yet, I'd expect that'd be best used for removing wet sanding scratches.



I started one detail before taking inventory of what I had on hand. Many of my polishes that I had with me were close to the bottom of the bottle. The job was mostly light to moderate swirls and oxidation with some more troublesome deeper swirling and RIDS. I used PFW and a Flex DA for the deeper stuff, Flex with LC white for most of the rest. On the hard to reach areas.... under bumpers, rockers etc... I used a 3" polishing pad and a rotary with M105 and some areas like around emblems and the depressions under door handles I did by hand. Everything came out looking great and *could* have been LSP ready but I decided to experiment. I used a blue LC finishing pad with very light pressure with M105 and you'd swear I'd used M205 or PO85rd to finish.



That's one of the beautys of M105, it can handle the heavy stuff as well as the lighter jobs and cut down on polishing time. As long as you have a variety of pads I'd suggest experimenting and use the least aggressive combo to get the job done. And although I got away with finishing with it I will be finishing with, and recommend, a proper finishing polish for best results.



Your mileage may vary,



TL
 
M105 is a fantastic product used with either a wool or foam pad. But here is the thing. A wool pad actually runs cooler than a foam pad. In most cases when paint burns happen it is because of the pad and not the product. Don't get me wrong, you can cut through a clear coat pretty quickly with a heavy wool pad and a compound but in most instances burns happen from the edge of foam pads. A cutting foam pad generates extreme heat (just run one over your finger) so be more careful of the pad as opposed to the polish or compound.



Even though M105 does a great job of cutting it is relatively gentle. I don't know how they do it but I never fear cutting too much with it. I even use it on 20's and 30's single stage clasic cars.
 
I go up to an American buffing white wool pad before I'd go to a cutting pad with #$105 via rotary. Wool pads are very smooth too.
 
I have used it with wool and foam. Sometimes if I just need a quick clean I'll use M105 on a black/green LC pad cause it finishes down so nice but yet cuts enough to remove some minor defects. M105 is very versatile.
 
Do you guys finding that it dries quickly with PFW and even low rotary speeds? like 600-1100 rpm? I find that I need to use alcohol/water to remove it cleanly and it leaves some hazing. But after I used it on several panels I think I am using too little. At the end after the PFW pad was loaded it buffed quite nicely. Oh well I am learning. By the way it finishes/flashes really fast(like people described). Like no more than a minute per section.





By the way I use LC white with Menz PO85rd afterward and it finishes crystal clear. No hazing or holograms.



That on a black Honda.



Cheers



Nick
 
titsataki said:
Do you guys finding that it dries quickly with PFW and even low rotary speeds? like 600-1100 rpm? I find that I need to use alcohol/water to remove it cleanly and it leaves some hazing. But after I used it on several panels I think I am using too little. At the end after the PFW pad was loaded it buffed quite nicely. Oh well I am learning. By the way it finishes/flashes really fast(like people described). Like no more than a minute per section.





By the way I use LC white with Menz PO85rd afterward and it finishes crystal clear. No hazing or holograms.



That on a black Honda.



Cheers



Nick
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Try taking a spray bottle and putting half distilled water, and half Meguiar's Last Touch inside. This bottle will be able to serve as clay lube, and a compound/polish releasing agent. I always use this to spray the dried product and it significantly reduces the amount of effort needed to remove the dried product, and reduces the chance of marring the paint.
 
Lumadar said:
Try taking a spray bottle and putting half distilled water, and half Meguiar's Last Touch inside. This bottle will be able to serve as clay lube, and a compound/polish releasing agent. I always use this to spray the dried product and it significantly reduces the amount of effort needed to remove the dried product, and reduces the chance of marring the paint.
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I tried also FK 425 and it helped. I as well try to go easy for fear of marring. But it is a black car so I cannot believe I can finish it ready for an LSP(maybe after I get the hung of it). Menz PO85RD takes care of the possible marring.



On another side I noticed a good amount of dusting. I probably will run a quick wash of the car to remove it up before I go to LSP.





Thanks for input again. :)





Nick
 
I love the versitility of M-105 and I always spray the pads with QD or some other formula. I tried something the other day and it worked great. I put 3 pea-sized drops on the pad, and rather than rubbing the product in with the buffer and then turning it on, I just started buffing. This proved to work great. It didn't sling at all, almost no haze at all to wipe down after buffing. Just put the pea sized or a little bigger in a triangular pattern and start buffing. Hope this may help you. As for pads I personally love the white wool Scottwax was talking about and I also use many different Edge foam pads. While we're speaking of M105, I also use it with great results on my Cyclo. When a car has alot of swirls, but is not in bad shape, this works like a charm and you reduce the risk of messing up. Hope you stay happy with your M105, it's one of my favorites in my arsenal.
 
bullitt21 said:
I love the versitility of M-105.. I also use it with great results on my Cyclo..
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Which pads with the Cyclo? I'd like to team my favorite polisher with my (new) favorite compound :D
 
I am currently using the Edge System on my Cyclo, and the velcro backing plates when I go with the yellow wool. I use the orange foam or yellow foam with the cyclo, and they both work very well with M105 for swirls. I even get great results on severely damaged paint if I take my time. I like the edge pads because the double padded sides have orange on one side and yellow on another, so you can just swap sides very quick if your not getting desired results. They also make an Orange/Green Combo etc. etc., which is great for going from m105 to m205 imo. As far as paint that needs some deeper cutting, the yellow wool with the velcro backing plate works well. I havn't seen any wool Edge attachments for the Cyclo but if someone knows let me know. The double-sided pads I get from Autogeek and the Velcro from Rightlook. I tried posting some half and half pictures with this method but it's telling me my upload is failing. I'm using a jpeg file, so for you who post pics often let me know what I might be doing wrong. Also, even on black cars the half and half pics of the m105 by itself looks LSP ready. Hope this helps.
 
bullit21- Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I have both the Edge and velcro systems and no, they don't offer the 4" Edge wool pads with the E2K mounting system (only Velcro).



I was wondering how the M105/green Cyclo foam would work for moderate correction on hard clear..if you try that combo please post something about how it works.



More generally, I was wondering how the Cyclo flashed the M105 (i.e., whether it did so too fast), sounds like that's not a problem.
 
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