Anyone have any recommendations as far as compound and polish goes? Ive never used theirs before. I plan on buying some Megs #66 and UQD when the gallon version arrives (still iffy I think from what the megs rep said and maybe very expensive) but I was thinking of trying out some of there stuff for the heck of it. I like to try new things.
Meguiar Products
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Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
Are you using a rotary or a Porter Cable? What are you goals..
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
The usual culprits from the Meg's Mirror Glaze line are #83 (6 on aggressiveness scale) and #80 (4). Depending how bad the swirls are on that hard GM clear, and particularly if you are using a rotary, you may want to step to #1 (7) or #4 or #84 (8). I have not used those heavier compounds which Meg's recommends for rotary only.
BlueZero
New member
I really like #80 with a PC.
violentveedub
New member
You like UQD enough to buy a gallon of it?
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
I started on Meguiars polishes/compounds. I think the 80 series would really do a lot of good work for you...
#84- Its very aggressive and very wet, which makes it perfect on a cutting pad on the rotary. Meguiars' recommends it with thier cutting pad which I find a bit harsh, but it works great with an LC yellow pad or any wool pad for serious defect removal.
#83- A large step down from #84, DAC/P is a split personality polish. On a PC it works well to remove minor defects and light swirls from all but the hardest paints, while on a rotary, it has enough cut to remove deeper marks and finishes nicely. Use with LC white pad or Meg's yellow for polishing, and a LC orange if you need a hair more cut.
#80- A great finishing polish on all but the softest paints. It is wet so it works for a while on the rotary and finishes very nice. It has enough cut on the rotary to remove decent swirls on softer paint (Ford trucks) and finsh harder paints down. It also works great on the portercable for final polishing. Features the same glazing oils as Meg's #7, so it adds a considerable amount of wetness to the paint. Perfect for applying a carnuaba over.
#82- A pure final polish, the only time I used it is when paint was very soft and #80 would leave hazing. Doesn't feature enough abbrassives to remove even minor marring on anything but the softest paints.
The only problems I have had with Meguiars' polishes is that they can get a little gummy (esp #83) in high humity, and I could NEVER finish down hologram free except on the hardest paints. As long as you don't mind finishing with a porter cable, Meg's polishes will produce great results.
I used to use (hard GM paint like Vettes)
#84 on LC Yellow Pad on the rotary at 1800 rpm or so for as many passes as necessary to remove the defects
#80 ( sub #83 if I used #84 with a wool pad) on LC Orange Pad on the rotary at 1500 rpm or so for one-two passes to clean up the marring from the yellow pad
#80 on Meg's Yellow Polishing pad on the PC for one pass on the PC to finish down nicely.
#84- Its very aggressive and very wet, which makes it perfect on a cutting pad on the rotary. Meguiars' recommends it with thier cutting pad which I find a bit harsh, but it works great with an LC yellow pad or any wool pad for serious defect removal.
#83- A large step down from #84, DAC/P is a split personality polish. On a PC it works well to remove minor defects and light swirls from all but the hardest paints, while on a rotary, it has enough cut to remove deeper marks and finishes nicely. Use with LC white pad or Meg's yellow for polishing, and a LC orange if you need a hair more cut.
#80- A great finishing polish on all but the softest paints. It is wet so it works for a while on the rotary and finishes very nice. It has enough cut on the rotary to remove decent swirls on softer paint (Ford trucks) and finsh harder paints down. It also works great on the portercable for final polishing. Features the same glazing oils as Meg's #7, so it adds a considerable amount of wetness to the paint. Perfect for applying a carnuaba over.
#82- A pure final polish, the only time I used it is when paint was very soft and #80 would leave hazing. Doesn't feature enough abbrassives to remove even minor marring on anything but the softest paints.
The only problems I have had with Meguiars' polishes is that they can get a little gummy (esp #83) in high humity, and I could NEVER finish down hologram free except on the hardest paints. As long as you don't mind finishing with a porter cable, Meg's polishes will produce great results.
I used to use (hard GM paint like Vettes)
#84 on LC Yellow Pad on the rotary at 1800 rpm or so for as many passes as necessary to remove the defects
#80 ( sub #83 if I used #84 with a wool pad) on LC Orange Pad on the rotary at 1500 rpm or so for one-two passes to clean up the marring from the yellow pad
#80 on Meg's Yellow Polishing pad on the PC for one pass on the PC to finish down nicely.
PRB
Still Plays with Cars
As an 80-series user since the line was introduced, I'll second what TH0001 said about their products.
I have not used any of the Lake Country pads he's mentioned, but with the Meguiar's foam I've had great success. Since I don't really care for the W7000, I tended to use wool with M84.
The M66 is a very good one-step product, especially for those paints that seem to mar by just looking at them.
When my business did "auction cleanup" for dealers, they wanted a one step on and off product. It was under $30/gal worked quickly, looked good, and offered some protection. It can be applied by hand, orbital, DA, or rotary.
If I'm trying to get marks from under a doorhandle that I can't reach with a machine, this is the product I use. It's great for cleaning up jambs as well.
I have not used any of the Lake Country pads he's mentioned, but with the Meguiar's foam I've had great success. Since I don't really care for the W7000, I tended to use wool with M84.
The M66 is a very good one-step product, especially for those paints that seem to mar by just looking at them.
When my business did "auction cleanup" for dealers, they wanted a one step on and off product. It was under $30/gal worked quickly, looked good, and offered some protection. It can be applied by hand, orbital, DA, or rotary.
If I'm trying to get marks from under a doorhandle that I can't reach with a machine, this is the product I use. It's great for cleaning up jambs as well.
94BlkStang
New member
Ern said:
DACP (#83) and #80 have been a great combination for me over the years and readily available over the counter. If it were me, I would just purchase those two along with an LSP for now. You should get great results and it'll keep you from accumulating several bottles of product that no longer get used.