Megs ULW. Is there any other way to remove this stuff than this??

T

tonygxp

New member
i love their UC, and ultimate polish. trying this ULW with a PC and LC CCS black pad and i CAN'T REMOVE IT FOR THE LIFE OF ME!!! i have to use quick detailer and another MF.. i love the longevity, the shine (after the QD removal) but i've searched this forum and others and can't find any other way. is this really it?



vehicle is a new body dark charcoal durango. the streaks are ridiculous. i've let it sit in the sun, the shade. anyone that has heard how to master this product and can point me in the right direction i would appreciate it greatly!



here's the color. is it just because it's a dark color?

DSC01407.jpg
 
I suppose you are referring to Ultimate Wax?



If so, it is a lot more durable than most people realize. I know it'll take at least 4-5 applications of isopropyl alcohol (10-20% dilution) to eliminate it. Maybe even more. You can remove it quicker if you use an abrasive polish, or an all purpose cleaner. Just know that any time you use an all purpose cleaner that is strong, it can oxidize the paint (dry it out), so you'd be wise to do a follow-up polish or glaze prior to re-waxing.



Do you not like the look, or???
 
Kevin Brown said:
I suppose you are referring to Ultimate Wax?



If so, it is a lot more durable than most people realize. I know it'll take at least 4-5 applications of isopropyl alcohol (10-20% dilution) to eliminate it. Maybe even more. You can remove it quicker if you use an abrasive polish, or an all purpose cleaner. Just know that any time you use an all purpose cleaner that is strong, it can oxidize the paint (dry it out), so you'd be wise to do a follow-up polish or glaze prior to re-waxing.



Do you not like the look, or???
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Kevin, I think the OP disliked that UW streaked on his paint.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
I'm assuming ULW = Ultimate Liquid Wax....
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Yup, I'm really on it tonight..!



Hate to say it but... if you like the durability, price, or look (other than the steaks of course), return the liquid and get the paste.



Other than that, I would try to apply it super duper thin via machine, and perhaps work it over with a really soft pad for a bit longer than you might normally.
 
I believe Meg's has suggested if your encounter streaking to do a panel at a time and not letting it set-up like you would with most sealants. I've not encountered any streaking with UW but I suspect it reacts differently on different paint and with different prep. The UW is rock hard though and if it is that difficult to remove with IPA then I'm looking forward to winter salt and grunge with a little more confidence this year.



Maybe try to reapply a section and immediately wipe off and see of the streaking is gone.
 
Streaking can be a problem with any wax if there's the slightest bit of oxidation on the surface. The car certainly looks new but it wouldn't hurt to do a test spot with a paint cleaner just to be sure.



But I'm guessing it's from using too much product. How easy was it to remove the film? (Not the streaking, I mean the translucent film of dried product.)



The big reason I find myself going back to paste is that it's too easy to apply liquids waaaaaay too thick. You actually have to make a conscious effort to keep it thin. I've never met anybody who applied liquid wax thin enough at first (I certainly didn't).







pc.
 
I had it streak my first time using it on a black car early this summer. However, I was testing it out in the sun on a hot day to see if their claim that you can apply it in the sun was true. I may have been able to put it on thinner, but once you get ULW to streak, you're really best off stripping that panel and starting over. I ended up Dawn foaming that car later and reapplying it thin in the shade and had great results (especially on the plastic and rubber trim pieces, very good for an OTC product).
 
thanks for the replies. i clayed the whole truck before applying the ULW. right after you apply and wipe, it looks great, like it's all good. go back 3 or 4 hours later and it's streaked like crazy. it sucks to have to go OVER the whole vehicle again with the QD but i do love the look and durability so i guess i'm between a rock and a hard place.



As for using a machine. i did, i worked it like it was the polish just to see if that's the problem. it isn't. being "too thick" may be though, i think i will call megs and ask them for the paste in exchange or i'll just eat it (but it shouldn't be this difficult)



i though about doing the opticoat 2.0 and just saying to hell with it, but i know it will drive me nuts not to wax or polish my vehicle and that opticoat seems like it's one and done lol (if i've read and researched correctly). glad to hear it's that difficult to remove, leads me to believe that it is as durable as i've seen on my own, outdoor, acid rain, bird crap, right near the ocean vehicle.
 
tonygxp said:
i though about doing the opticoat 2.0 and just saying to hell with it, but i know it will drive me nuts not to wax or polish my vehicle and that opticoat seems like it's one and done lol (if i've read and researched correctly). glad to hear it's that difficult to remove, leads me to believe that it is as durable as i've seen on my own, outdoor, acid rain, bird crap, right near the ocean vehicle.
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I've topped the OC2.0 on my SUV with Poxy. You just don't polish anymore (unless you leave some high spots before it cures).
 
How much did you use for the entire vehicle? Should be less than 1oz, probably closer to 1/2. Also what did you use as lube for the clay? Sometimes there are funny reactions if you don't do a polish+IPA step and wax/LSP directly on top of a QD.
 
I tested a piece of trim, sorry no pic, and noticed a difference in staining of the trim In ULW of paste vs liquid. I think that is what you are experiencing. It streaks easier where there might be oxidation. There are ( with a good eye) more noticible streaking hazes with the liquid than the paste. IME- this is only through hand application on a black hood.
 
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