Meg's oils which one more user friendly

[mongo]

DC # 2 is the esiest to use goes on like lotion but only lasts for a short period and does not have the pop that the others do.



I have used # 7 and # 5 before how is #81 hand polish out of these three or any of the others they have which one is easier to work with meaning really easier to buff off.



One a side note the second layer of 21 sealant I used seemed to introduce tight marring into the 21 already on there any ideas as to why Meg's yellow foam app was used to apply and Viking yellow polishing cloths were used to remove as well as DFtowels.

the marring is really tight I can tell it was introduced when applying the second coat of 21.



Does the oils on Meg's products prevent the 21 from bonding to the paint although none were used one this vehicle.



thannx mongo

 

[coupe]

DC # 2 is the esiest to use goes on like lotion but only lasts for a short period and does not have the pop that the others do.



I have used # 7 and # 5 before how is #81 hand polish out of these three or any of the others they have which one is easier to work with meaning really easier to buff off.



One a side note the second layer of 21 sealant I used seemed to introduce tight marring into the 21 already on there any ideas as to why Meg's yellow foam app was used to apply and Viking yellow polishing cloths were used to remove as well as DFtowels.

the marring is really tight I can tell it was introduced when applying the second coat of 21.



Does the oils on Meg's products prevent the 21 from bonding to the paint although none were used one this vehicle.



thannx mongo

All of those are easy on easy off, i dont know of anything easier.

Your not letting them dry are you?

Im not sure what you mean about them not lasting long.



You must have something in your applicator, sand, dust, old dried product etc.

 

[Accumulator]

Mongo- IMO (and we're kinda splitting hairs here), the #81 is like #3 looks-wise. Slightly better than #5 but not as nice as #7. FWIW I usually stick with #5 because it's so user-friendly. #5 can be allowed to dry, which is different from the others (which oughta be buffed off wet). None of 'em last long unless you top them with a regular LSP.



According to Meguiar's the oils in their pure polishes won't compromise the bonding of the #21 to the paint :nixweiss



Yeah, there must've been something in the applicator or towels, assuming the Viking was soft enough to begin with (no experience with them). Or maybe something got on the paint, some very light, but abrasive, dust for instance.

 

[mongo]

I used Meg's deep crystal paint cleaner then Danase Speed Glaze followed by Meg's 21.

then a week later washed with Meg's 62 really good wash it looked great but then added second coat did not look as good and the micro swirls were inroduced.

 

[Accumulator]

Huh.. :nixweiss All I can think of is the same old stuff. It had to be either the application/buffing media or some dirt on the surface

 

[EBPcivicsi]

Huh.. :nixweiss All I can think of is the same old stuff. It had to be either the application/buffing media or some dirt on the surface

Or the washing induced the marring, only he noticed *after* the application of #21???

 

[Accumulator]

Yeah, that too...good catch

 

[mongo]

I used Viking cotton chenille mitt with the cotton logo on the wrapper dried with absorber.



I think 21 on top of 21 will swirl besides 21 on top of Danase Speed Glaze looked better with one coat anywayz thats after I washed with Meg's 62 wash.

If I used one of the oils it would be #81 bettersuited forbasecoat /clear or %, dc#2

 

[Accumulator]

..If I used one of the oils it would be #81 bettersuited forbasecoat /clear or %, dc#2

Guess the source of the marring will remain a mystery, at least for now...hey, [stuff] happens :nixweiss



Other than #7 being especially good for single stage, IMO there's no real "best for b/c" between #3/#5/#81/DC#2. But (also just IMO) DC#2 is a cheaper version of the others. I'd find one of the #3/#5/#7/#81 that you like on a particular paint and use that. But again, I generally just reach for #5 myself.

 

[kleraudio]

How would you apply #7 or #5 with a PC? a Finishing pad with no cut like the LC blue or black pad??



Do you work in like a polish? I imagine you wouldnt because your not breaking down any abrasives?



How bout #9??



Thanks



Jim

 

[Accumulator]

How would you apply #7 or #5 with a PC? a Finishing pad with no cut like the LC blue or black pad??

Speed no higher than 4, don't *overwork* the product lest it be hard to remove, especially #7. Yeah, a pad with no cut, but I generally prefer cut-free *polishing* pads as the more open pores seem to work better; the pads don't load up with the product.

Do you work in like a polish? I imagine you wouldnt because your not breaking down any abrasives?

Not really, except on dried out old single-stage. You want to work the product into the pores/microfissures/etc. of the paint but how much that'll happen probably depends more on the condition of the paint than anything else. I've had some nice Audis where the product just sat on the paint until I wiped it right off...couldn't even tell I'd used anything because the product didn't get a "toehold in the imperfections" because there weren't any (or at least that's how I interpreted it).

How bout #9??

I use it about the same way except I work it longer so that the (minimal) abrasives have a chance to maybe do something.

 

[kleraudio]

Thanks for the help Accumulator. So a white LC pad might be the best pad on speed 4 to work in one of these products?



If i am working on old SS paint, I would want to work it in longer you are saying, to really penetrate the paint's pores??



Does the same go for say.... a product like RMG?



Thanks again, looking forward to trying one of these glazes out!



Jim

 

[Accumulator]

So a white LC pad might be the best pad on speed 4 to work in one of these products?

Yeah, that'd be my choice as long as it's nonabrasive on the paint in question (never know...there area some soft paints out there).

If i am working on old SS paint, I would want to work it in longer you are saying, to really penetrate the paint's pores??

Yeah. Extreme example: when I did a really neglected '75 Jag (old ss lacquer) it just *drank up* the #7 so I kept adding more and working it in.

Does the same go for say.... a product like RMG?

Sorry, dunno...never tried it :nixweiss I haven't even gotten around to trying the Danase Speed Glaze sample that BlkZ28Conv sent me