megs #83, #80 and then #82, still haze slight haze, what now?

coupe,

I am not confused about the order. If you want a clear finish and your paint is fully cured, you don't need #80. #80 is made to be used on fresh paint.



Take your time, be slow, and continue using 82 with the softest finishing pad that corrects the problem. You said 82 was working to correct the haze. Continue using it but remember that with a pc the deminishing abrasives take time to break down to become a polish. Once it becomes a polish continue working it until the haze is gone and you have the gloss and clarity you want.



I can only see two things that could be the problem.



1 the pads you are using could be marring the paint. OR

2 You are not breaking down the polish correctly to get the gloss and clarity you want.



Priming your pad in the beginning is also important.



Do a test with some scratch X and really work it into the paint. If that clears up the haze the Meguiars products you have will fix the problem. You are just not using them correctly.
 
I found 2 PBE stores in my area i didnt even know existed.

Maybe i will get lucky and find optimum and menzerna......doubt it....but maybe.
 
In your previous posts you have stated that you have had amazing results with Meguiars products, but now your not going to use them anymore? Are you using a PC or a rotary.



FWIW, the Menzerna is not going to solve the problem. A rotary buffer and a light polish would. If you are using a PC, your just going to have to live with hazing with any of the milder polishes out there.
 
Coupe,



Being the Ex- Super Moderator for Meguiar's Online for the last 2.5 years, I have answered this question many times on MOL as you are not alone.



Even though #66 and #80 have the same cut according to the scale on the bottle, they use different type of diminishing abrasive. Hence the reason I suggested the #66 after the #82 if you are using a PC. With #82 you will work the product longer than with #66.



Meguiar's #80 can be used on any paint finish and not just on curing paint. In fact, it is the go to product for many people to remove light marring. Further, I would not call your paint soft but rather scratch sensitive. Some BC/CC can be very hard yet scratch easily.



Tim
 
Derrick said:
coupe,

I am not confused about the order. If you want a clear finish and your paint is fully cured, you don't need #80. #80 is made to be used on fresh paint.
Click to expand...

Well, you certainly seem to be confused about #80. The whole Meg's 80's-series can be used on fresh paint. The only thing special about #80 itself, is that it contains a polymer which is paint shop safe, thus it will also provide some protection to paint that is not fully cured. But this doesn't mean that it is made only for fresh paint. As 2hotford states, #80 is many peoples go-to product (including mine), since it is a very versatile abrasive polish. It is also rich in polishing oils, which will act like a glaze while it polishes. Maybe it's the fact that #80 is called "Speed Glaze" that is confusing some people :nixweiss
 
Originally posted by ZET

The only thing special about #80 itself, is that it contains a polymer which is paint shop safe, thus it will also provide some protection to paint that is not fully cured.
Click to expand...



I said the above days ago when I first replied to the first thread Coupe started. Read the other thread Coupe started and you will see it. :wall



I was trying to help Coupe fix his problem with the products he had. He stated that when he uses 82 during his detailing routine he gets a nice finish. He then stated that he used 83 and then he used 80(instead of 82) and now he has a hazed finish.





Originally posted by ZET

#80 is many peoples go-to product (including mine), since it is a very versatile abrasive polish. It is also rich in polishing oils, which will act like a glaze while it polishes.
Click to expand...



I also stated I have no real use for 80 because I am only concerned with the true cut of the polish. My clients' paint must be as close to perfect as possible(without fillers) before I can apply my LSP.
 
Fixed it, i will just put the same thing in this thread:



Alright i figured it out.

Kinda embarrasing but i wasnt working it long enough.

This stuff you have to work FOREVER. I have never had to work it this long to get these results.



But anyway here is me working my arse off.

polishhood.jpg








I still have micro marring on my hood, its 98% better.

The rest of the car is coming out great, 100% micor marring free!
 
2hotford said:
Coupe,



Being the Ex- Super Moderator for Meguiar's Online for the last 2.5 years, I have answered this question many times on MOL as you are not alone.



Even though #66 and #80 have the same cut according to the scale on the bottle, they use different type of diminishing abrasive. Hence the reason I suggested the #66 after the #82 if you are using a PC. With #82 you will work the product longer than with #66.



Meguiar's #80 can be used on any paint finish and not just on curing paint. In fact, it is the go to product for many people to remove light marring. Further, I would not call your paint soft but rather scratch sensitive. Some BC/CC can be very hard yet scratch easily.



Tim
Click to expand...





Im gonna have to order #66 for sure.

My local PBE stores carry almost EVERY product megs sells except #66......can ya believe that crap? Just my luck ya know?
 
Hey Coupe,



I always keep a gallon of #66 around just in case I run into certain paints. I am glad to hear that it turned out for you. Every product has a learning curve that goes with it. But once that is figured out, you will know from that point on when the correct situation requires which product. :)



Tim
 
Coupe,

If that's a repainted hood you should have a thick coat of paint on it. You should be able to easily removed the marring with a pc. Just keep doing what you are doing.
 
I am also having this hazing issue, and i think it was induced by me when i used a heavy cut pad with OC. I tried using OP w/ polishing pad but it didn't help with the hazing. Should i tried multiple times using OP and work the product longer?
 
Coupe said:
WRONG

The order of abbrasives is #83, #80 and then #82 and is supposed to be used in that order. #82 DOES have abbrasives in it and all the pro-line has a certain level of fillers.



You and alot of people get confused becuase of the numbering megs uses. Gopedhead and Derrick also are confused about it.



Please reffer this chart:

http://dano.pocketrubbish.com/detailing/productchart.htm
Click to expand...





i just wanted to say that you said people are confused of the numbering meg's uses, but you wrote out the same order meg's uses?? meg's says #83=6, #80=4, and #82=3

same thing as you said and the chart you linked to says... he is wrong, but you're wrong about meg's system being wrong hahaha

anyway, car looks great and i'm glad everything worked out

especially since i'll be ordering those same products very soon
 
Zet said:
Well, you certainly seem to be confused about #80. The whole Meg's 80's-series can be used on fresh paint. The only thing special about #80 itself, is that it contains a polymer which is paint shop safe, thus it will also provide some protection to paint that is not fully cured. But this doesn't mean that it is made only for fresh paint. As 2hotford states, #80 is many peoples go-to product (including mine), since it is a very versatile abrasive polish. It is also rich in polishing oils, which will act like a glaze while it polishes. Maybe it's the fact that #80 is called "Speed Glaze" that is confusing some people :nixweiss
Click to expand...



do you just use sealant/wax afterwards or do you go over it with #82 or #9 or something similar/less abrasive?
 
most of the time you dont have to go over it with anything less abrasive. Some people like to polish there car with a pure polish or #3(really really light cutting) and then go to the Sealant/Wax
 
sneek said:
most of the time you dont have to go over it with anything less abrasive. Some people like to polish there car with a pure polish or #3(really really light cutting) and then go to the Sealant/Wax
Click to expand...



yea i like #9 before klasse right now but i'm wondering if it's a good or bad thing that it has some fillers ?? i would switch to #82 instead of #9 before klasse but idk if it matters that it has fillers since i just seal it with klasse... what do you guys think ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top