Meg's #26: PASTE!

A

audio1der

New member
Being that everyone reccomends S100 paste, but I do not have easy access to S100, I had my local Megs dealer special-order me a tin of Meg's #26 paste.(they stock only the liquid)

Boy,oh boyu, is that stuff hard to buff off.

I didn't apply it too thickly, and this was over a very-well prepped car.

It also didn't quite provide the shine I was expecting.

This was on a 1-year old paint medium blue job, over wash, clay, SMR and Z1/Z2.

Anyone out there with any experience, or suggestions?

I'm going to use it up, then try and get my hands on some S100.

:(
 
Used 26 this weekend on a Black Explorer--clayed it first then applied 26 but buffed off most and followed with hand work--you're right it's not EZ. But it came out well and it is durable
 
I use the liquid version and dont have any problems with it buffing off. I apply in a thin layer, let it haze, then wipe off. Not as easy as S100, but not that much harder.
 
The problem with the paste is that it's tough to get a thin layer. Try sitting the wax in the sun a bit to soften it a bit. Then only dab for small amounts. I had been using the liquid for quite a while and never had any problems, but the first time I used the paste, I had huge problems getting it all off. It's just too easy to put to much on. Also, try not letting it dry too long on the surface. If it's completed dried and hardened, you'll have a tough time. I normally apply to a couple of large panels and then go back and remove the first panel.
 
You know, sometimes I read these posts and I have to wonder… “What’s wrong with me?â€�



I have never had any problems applying or removing #26, both the liquid or the paste.



But here is technique that should help you apply the paste.



Using a clean, soft foam applicator pad, spin the pad “In� the can, in a circular motion for a few moments until the wax “Liquefies� (It should liquefy).



Now apply the wax to your finish. Don’t try to “Scoop�, or “Dab� portions of wax out of the can and onto the finish.



Correctly used, the #26 paste… is a liquid.



Try this, and for removing, use your softest, 100% cotton terry cloth towel. The little loops help to “Slice� into the continuous layer of wax, helping to “disrupt�, or “break-up� the continueous film.



After you get 80% of the wax off, then switch to a premium quality microfiber.



Hope this helps…
 
Shocking that Mike has never had any problems!



Anything that is paste I use a quick spritz of EO Wipe n Shine to thin out the product and allow for uniform application. Has never failed. Don't know too much about #26 to say if that would help or not. But, from Mike's description, it sounds thin enough and may or may not help.



Why would you use #26 over Zaino? Maybe I'm wrong, but aren't there cleaning properties in the #26 that may affect the beauty of the Zaino finish?? :nixweiss It would pay to invest in P21s. You can buy it here on Autopia!! :up IMHO, just my $.02 (I'm not knocking the #26 :) )
 
It is purely to add depth to the Z shine.

I have the pure carnauba paste; there are no cleaners (or trace amounts at that) in it.

I will try the 80% switch to MF, not aiting as long to buff off, and using a QD to aid spreadability on the applicator; thanks, guys!:xyxthumbs
 
Wow! Thanks, Mike. I will definitely try the "spin the applicator in the can" trick! It's great having you online for questions!:bow
 
Spilchy said:
Shocking that Mike has never had any problems!





Why would you use #26 over Zaino? Maybe I'm wrong, but aren't there cleaning properties in the #26 that may affect the beauty of the Zaino finish?? :nixweiss It
Click to expand...



Just a FYI,



#26 is a "pure" wax, there are no cleaners in it, nor any abrasives.



In fact there are no ingredients with the intended purpose of cleaning the paint in this product. It is only for finishes in "New" Condition.



In other words, brand new cars, brand new paint, (after manufactures recommended cure time), or finishes that have been previously, "cleaned", and "polished".



Like I said, just a "heads up" :xyxthumbs
 
Mike Phillips said:
Just a FYI,



#26 is a "pure" wax, there are no cleaners in it, nor any abrasives.



In fact there are no ingredients with the intended purpose of cleaning the paint in this product. It is only for finishes in "New" Condition.



In other words, brand new cars, brand new paint, (after manufactures recommended cure time), or finishes that have been previously, "cleaned", and "polished".



Like I said, just a "heads up" :xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



I stand corrected! But I could have sworn I saw that somewhere.
 
Megs makes a Hi-Tech yellow wax which contains cleaners, and also the kind I bought, which does not.

I did not want them, as any surface I apply it to will be well propped, and I want to layer it.

I'm in Calgary, AB.
 
Spilchy said:
Anything that is paste I use a quick spritz of EO Wipe n Shine to thin out the product and allow for uniform application. Has never failed. Don't know too much about #26 to say if that would help or not. But, from Mike's description, it sounds thin enough and may or may not help.
Click to expand...
DavidB mentioned a similar tip when he tested out Mothers paste wax, so this might be worth a try. :up He sprayed the applicator pad first I think...



At some point in the past I had gotten "okay" at applying #26 paste (plastic jar version) but after getting my hands on S100 it just sits in the bottom of the detailing bag collecting dust while I try to think up ways to use the stuff up. :rolleyes: Even when I had become able to use it reasonably quickly I still thought it was quite a bit of work in both application and removal.



Have you tried phoning around to all the bike shops and seeing if they sell S100?
 
Like someone else mentioned, some time has to elapse after application for the wax to cure and the shine to appear. You will notice more slickness a day after applying 26.



Mike, you mentioned that #26 has no cleaners and is a pure carnuba. Well I have a question about layering, because even though there are no cleaners, what about the solvents in the wax? Won't those disrupt or reliquify the first wax layer? Or is it too weak to do that?
 
Mike Phillips said:
Using a clean, soft foam applicator pad, spin the pad “In� the can, in a circular motion for a few moments until the wax “Liquefies� (It should liquefy).



Now apply the wax to your finish. Don’t try to “Scoop�, or “Dab� portions of wax out of the can and onto the finish.



Correctly used, the #26 paste… is a liquid.
Click to expand...



I know Mike is my husband but everyone should really check out the liquefy trick. :cool:



I have used it with #16 and was amazed how easily it worked. I just like to show it to people, even if they don't want to use a paste wax. :D



Lynn Phillips
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top