Meg's #21 sealant then #26 wax?

A

alkemyst

New member
Does following the sealant with a wax effectively remove the sealant?



Does it make sense to follow a sealant with a wax?



I am new to sealants, but #21 has my wife's car shining nicely.
 
I have seen a lot of posts, but none that are concise. I am going to be doing mine this weekend (my wife's car is always the guinea pig as her's will be replaced soon).



I will do sealant one day and check it out then follow with a wax and see.



So far I am impressed with the #21.
 
Sure, you CAN put wax over it but why?:nixweiss



I guess you don't live next to trees that have pollen or dusty roads right?



If you wax over it, get ready to really pull your hair out when pollen sticks to it like flypaper.



Me, I'd leave the sealant alone.



Deanski
 
I always do..i just like to...as long as the wax doesnt have cleaners in it then you will be fine...and there isnt a wax that comes to mind that does...a lot of sealants do but i dont know of any nubas



Does it add protection? I dont know

Could i tell the difference? i dont know

Do i like to think that i am adding to the durability and looks? Yes
 
Deanski said:
Sure, you CAN put wax over it but why?:nixweiss



I guess you don't live next to trees that have pollen or dusty roads right?



If you wax over it, get ready to really pull your hair out when pollen sticks to it like flypaper.



Me, I'd leave the sealant alone.



Deanski
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I use #5 or 7 now with #26 and don't notice dust and pollen...I rinse the car down about once a week from road grime/elements.
 
I agree about the dust and pollen. Last year I noticed that M21 by itself almost repelled the dust and pollen. When I topped with 26 it seemed like it reversed and attracted the stuff.



That said, M21 + M26 is a killer combo for blacks, and 26 definitely does not remove 21 if the 21 has cured for 12 hours or more. I know this for a fact. I've finished my car with straight 26 and also with 21 +26. The latter is definately wetter and has more pop to it.



I've got 21 topped with Aquawax right now and trying to see how I like that. This combo will be nice since it will still somewhat repel the dust since AW is a sealant as well.
 
Ah, good info to know. Does wax in general seem to attract pollen / dust like crazy or just #26? I just bought a few gallons of quick detailers cuz I figured I'd have to do a quick wipe every few days.
 
orionredwing said:
Ah, good info to know. Does wax in general seem to attract pollen / dust like crazy or just #26? I just bought a few gallons of quick detailers cuz I figured I'd have to do a quick wipe every few days.
Click to expand...



In my experience, it's the nature of wax in general...not just 26. The oils in the wax seem to attract dust....just like a freshly pledged coffee table seems to get dusty quick because of the oils that the dust sticks to more easily.



Sealants on the other hand don't use the high oil content of the waxes and don't suffer from this problem.
 
alkemyst said:
I use #5 or 7 now with #26 and don't notice dust and pollen...I rinse the car down about once a week from road grime/elements.
Click to expand...



You must have some exotic tree pollen.. Wax has oils, when warm, it makes pollen stick period. Unless you are using a QD that does not have oils/silicones, then it will not stick. Wax by itself will make pollen stick. More exotic waxes (Zymol high-end types) are quite known for this problem as they have alltypes of oils.



Normally a rinse will only remove a very light layer of pollen/dust. Washing with the approved soap can and will for the most part get it off if you're doing this weekly. Longer wait times will require a bit more work and I have found it needs to be clayed.A light cleansing polish, then re-application of the wax is needed.



NXT has very limit carnauba in it and mostly based on sealant technology which is why it looks so good and lasts a long time.



I have used the entire Zymol line and know for fact these are great at getting dust embedded into it, but if you maintain it with the QD, it's not as difficult or as bad.



As long as you have something on a wheel to protect it from pitting is the key. For chrome finish, I've had very good luck with Flitz or Blue Magic for protection, but it doesn't last long in repelling, but it does do well in preventing rust or oxidation.



I've shown numerous owners how hot wheels get after a drive with a laser temp gauge shot at different areas of the wheel. These probes are now cheap and a good thing to have for both wheels and paint temps.



Go with whatever you think works for you, but keep an eye on the wheel for not only road dirt, but brake dust which can pit and damage a wheel.



So far, sealants have proven the best way to protect against brake dust. That's unless you have ceramic rotors etc and with those, be very careful cleaning the wheel so not to get any cleaners on the rotor. And, if you do a wheel-off cleaning, when installing the wheel, make sure you use TWO wheel hangers so you do not hit the rotor with the wheel and damage the rotor which are not cheap at all!



Regards,

Deanski
 
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