Megs #105...never ceases to amaze me!

-Longhorn- said:
Ive been doing this for over 15 years I think I know what Im doing but thanks.
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You guys have to remember that not everybody has the same standard when it comes to finishing. Light hologramming and marring is acceptable to the majority of the detailing world. For 99% or more of the guys who polish paint, M105 will finish out to acceptable standard (scary as this is for us).



Also M105 does mask, though not a great deal. Pull the car outside and let it sit in the sun (with no LSP) and you will see the hologramming become slight worse (again slightly). There is no way I would go from M105 to a finishing polish. Sometimes we have to let experience (which isn't measured in time doing this) lead us more then we let our eyes lead us.



M105 by itself is going to leave a nice (realitively, horrible by autopian standard) finish until the oils leach out, then you will still have an okay finish.



M105 + going straight to a final finish will leave a huge gap and the potential for RIDS, swirls, and deeper stuff returing later down the road.



M105 + solid middle step on a softer polishing pad + finishing polish on a finishing pad= much better choice, IMO and IME.
 
TH0001 said:
M105 + going straight to a final finish will leave a huge gap and the potential for RIDS, swirls, and deeper stuff returing later down the road.



M105 + solid middle step on a softer polishing pad + finishing polish on a finishing pad= much better choice, IMO and IME.
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BINGO!



I just used M105 for the first time and my results were exactly as you describe. I thought the finish looked great after my M105 step, so I went on to my final polishing. Looked fabulous in indirect sunlight and halogen (RIDS were all gone). I pulled out into direct sunlight,....................puke! Went back to an intermediate step and all was good.
 
RDAVEX7 said:
Could the mixing of 105 with other products be adding to the finish giving better results than 105 alone? I think so depending on what it's mixed with.
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I have a 64 oz bottle thats about 80% #105 and 20% #80 and its a killer combo.
 
I tried adding more lubricant to it to see if I can extend it's working time without adding larger polishing particles. So far mineral spirits and mineral oil don't mix 100% well but I'm getting decent results with mineral spirits. I'm next going to try a mix of denatured alcohol, water and polyvinyl alcohol. Hopefully this will work better. But I still don't see as many rids on the small section of M105 alone compared to the section that I finished with DC polish. The DC polish section looks worse in my opinion, the DC polish left it's own light holograms and marring whereas the M105 finished hologram free, this is in absolutely direct sunlight. IMO finishing polishes shouldn't perform worse than M105.
 
TH0001 said:
M105 + solid middle step on a softer polishing pad + finishing polish on a finishing pad= much better choice, IMO and IME.
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What kind of middle step and finishing polishes would you suggest? I want to try the m105 on my neglected, repainted SS white Ranger. I was using the M83, but I wasn't getting the cut that I was hoping for on the horizontal sections or water spots. It worked great on my other cars though.



These are the products I currently have, would any of them work?



Megs:

#3

#7

#9

#83

Deep Crystal Polish



3M:

Imperial Hand Glaze

Perfect-It SMR

Perfect-It Foam polishing pad glaze



The Wax Shop:

Safe Cut
 
BuffMe said:
I would try out #83 on ss paint before moving to #105. You might be surprised by the results from #83.
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I have tried it on this very truck. As I said previously, it wasn't cutting through the oxidation and water spots as well as I would have liked. This was using a PC with an 5.5" orange LC pad. It did work great on my SS black XR4Ti I did this past weekend, but it wasn't oxidized anywhere nearly as bad as my Ranger. FWIW, the last time my ranger was washed was at least 4 months ago.



I do have a Makita rotary with a gray 3M waffle pad and a wool pad. I just haven't used it much, especially with heavy cutting compounds. I'm also thinking about picking up a sample size of the D151 to try out.
 
I meant to say #83 on a wool cutting pad. Try stepping down the pad size as well for extra cut with a PC. I would be surprised if #83 on a 3.5" purple foamed wool didn't do amazing correction on that paint. Of course, stranger things have happened. You can also try mixing in some #105 at increasingly stronger strengths.
 
Try the rotary with the wool pad and M105. If that can't cut it nothing will. Remember to use a slower speed, M105 really does cut fast.
 
WhiteLX said:
What kind of middle step and finishing polishes would you suggest? I want to try the m105 on my neglected, repainted SS white Ranger. I was using the M83, but I wasn't getting the cut that I was hoping for on the horizontal sections or water spots. It worked great on my other cars though.



These are the products I currently have, would any of them work?



Megs:

#3

#7

.

.



Deep Crystal Polish



3M:

Imperial Hand Glaze...
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All the above a functionally *nonabrasive* so they're not the sort of product you want for this.



The #9 and/or 3M SMR you also mentioned are *so* gentle as to be only useful as final finishing polishes (esp. on something as hard as ss white).



The #83 might be a good choice for the intermediate product.



Dunno about the others...



Oh, and Welcome To Autopia!







Perfect-It SMR

Perfect-It Foam polishing pad glaze



The Wax Shop:

Safe Cut[/QUOTE]
 
Here's some 105 insight for this thread via a Flex on an E55. The pictures don't show it but those were some DEEP RIDS:



2 X 105 LC Orange

1 X SIP LC Orange

1 X SIP LC White



download3.jpg




download1.jpg




download2.jpg
 
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