Maximum Depth (yes its been discussed)

S

SkeptiKal

New member
I have a black car that is in good condition. I have some very minor swirls here and there that I am content with. I am also tired of the current wax that I have on there and wanted to try something different.



I am looking for maximum depth (and wetness).



This is what I was thinking:

Clean off car with Klasse AIO

Follow by Meg #80

Seal with NXT

Top with P21S Carnuba



OR



Poorboys SSR (to try and get it perfect)

Vanilla Moose

Meg #26 (or Klasse SG)

followed by P21S



What would be a better combo?



Anyone have any particular combos that they like on black that work well? I have access to a lot of products.
 
With the products you listed, the best depth and wetness would be #80, VM and 3-4 coats of #26, each about a week and a wash apart. You'd sacrifice some clarity but the depth would be insane.
 
Your "true" and "lasting" depth is produced/created during your prep. This depth is "protected" by your LSP of choice. Not the opposite. Concentrate on prep and leave the LSP considerations for protection and minor appearance feature augmentation. Most if not all LSP, including sealants, will have wonderful depth if the paint has depth produced while prepping. Too many desire to find the quick depth appearing image by LSP application. False gold IMHO.

Observing (Analysizing) depth of finish)

True depth is viewed by standing perpendicular to the surface not by changing to an acute angle. Angle change or viewing produces only "hue" changes. A good example would be to analysis the depth of a swimming pool. One would NOT position oneself to view the surface of the pool tangentially (lying on the pool deck), but one would stand on the edge and look down (perpendicular).

Any perceived depth changes viewed otherwise than perpendicularly is strictly mentally formulated.



First wash and clay. Claying is an important step in clarifying the optics of the finish by removal of light refracting embedded material. Work with what you have, the PB SSR's until you get the depth, gloss and reflectivity your are seeking. Final cleanse with the AIO. Not only for a slight polishing and cleansing but also for some added protection since the LSP's you have on hand are not know for lasting protection. You do desire to protect all the time invested in prepping. :nixweiss

If you concentrate of the prep you will be more gratified as time goes on.



If your desire is to "imitate" depth of the finish, the combo of Meg #80 and #26 will give you a wonderful results if you do not have time to Prep meticulously for "true" depth before application.



Maximum depth is hidden in the Prep. Not the LSP. (see my sig) :D
 
SkeptiKal said:
I'll give that a try, thanks Scott. I should just give up on the P21S?



If that doesn't work its time for Sourveran.
Click to expand...



Yeah, the time I used P21s on my Jag instead of the usual Souveran (identical prep, this was the only change) I gained gloss/reflection and lost depth. As in *really* lost depth. This just happens to be a color (rhodium silver single stage lacquer, really a metallic light gray) where differences in depth are very noticeable.





But besides that, what blkZ28Conv said. The real (short) answer to almost every detailing question really is "prep". Get it the way you want it *before* adding a LSP.
 
SkeptiKal, Thanks and you are welcome.



I also noticed that you have KSG. A very popular combo is SG topped with a carnuaba. With a depth producing prep the carnuaba topper can/may be not needed. KSG can sometimes be a little hard to work with but if you use Bill North's WOWO method it is not bad at all and from my testing with the old KSG, still very durable and extremely attractive appearance on black. :xyxthumbs



My choice on black after a meticulous and time consuming prep, which includes Zaino PC Fusion as the final polish is:

Z5/ZFX x 2 or 3 on day 1 with Z6 between coats. Z2-PRO/ZFX x 2 or 3 with Z8 between coats. Day 5 Z8 (3 day rest allows previous 4-6 coats to fully curing, level and harden).



I maintain with Z7 washes and Z8 sprucing when needed. :woot:



Again, it is all in the prep. :wavey
 
Originally posted by blkZ28Conv

With a depth producing prep the carnuaba topper can/may be not needed.
Click to expand...



What should I use/do for a more "depth producing prep"? Please enlighten me. I thought all polishing prep is about the same. I plished my black car out with SSR 2.5 and P085RD, many swirls and scratches were removed yet my depth didn't seem any greater at all, in comparison to a part of the paint that's wasn't polished at all. I got more gloss from polishing but How do I do a prep that produces a deep color.



My paint is 7 rs. old. IS it oxidation possibly thats deterring my cars depth after ploshing??
 
The hardest part is "clearing" the lens(CC) of one's paint. The clearcoat is the determining factor in the appearance (depth, gloss, reflectivity and color hue) of CC paint jobs. Hazed CC will dull or detract from hue clarity.



What is the condition of your 7 y.o. CC?

Waterspot or etching?

Have you clayed the surface recently?



The oxidation should have been eliminated by your polishing. If you used SSR 2.5 and went straight to PO85RD, your problem may be haze not eliminated by PO85RD. You may want to try a milder polish between the 2.5 prior to the PO85RD. I have found that PO85RD works best by rotary and found PC application quite dissappointing in terms of clarity. Maybe something like SSR1, 1Z MP, or Zaino PC Fusion prior to PO85RD.



Hope this helps. :wavey
 
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