Makita Users-Problem with Cord? PIC

C

Carbon Blue

New member
Hey all, happy holidays! Ive got a question for you makita 9227 users, while working on my car I noticed the rotary would all of a sudden lose power on me while polishing, turns out if I wiggled the electrical cord that led into the polisher it would suddenly turn back on. I sent the polisher back to makita for warranty work and in two weeks time I receive it with a labor charge of 30$.



This is where the problem is. Before I sent the makita in it seems that the cord that led into the polisher was crimped or crumpled due to regular wear and tear. I can imagine this is due to putting the cord over your shoulder when your polishing the hood or roof of the vehicle so that the cord does not drag on the paint. In the mean time I was able to borrow my uncles makita which he had just purchased and that too had the same "crimping" or crumpling of the cord problem. Is there any way to prevent this crimping or crumpling of the cord when doing details so that this loss of power does not occur? I have attached a pic of where this problem occurs.



b_220103.jpg


not my car, but the only pic of my polisher where the cord can be seen
 
Upgrade your cord by swapping it out to a larger, stiffer extension cord from Home Depot. That way it won't twist at the end of the rubber sleeve. And, you'll never need an extension cord again(built in). $30 is a rip off for something that costs under $10 and 10 minutes to upgrade. It's also a good idea to tape up the end of your head unit (silver metal part) in case you accidentally bump up against the vehicle.
 
^ +2



I replaced the cord on my Makita a few months ago. I bought a longer cord, and it the extra length definitely comes in handy.



By the way, changing out the cord was very easy!
 
David Fermani said:
It's also a good idea to tape up the end of your head unit (silver metal part) in case you accidentally bump up against the vehicle.
Click to expand...



Not to hijack the thread, David, can you elaborate on this taping of the metal body?
 
I have had to fix my cord a couple of times. Bending the cord over time causes a short to happen in one of the wires in the cord. I just cut off that part of the cord and crimp the wires back together. But bending the cord and taping it to the handle will help. Just loop it back to the handle, wrap a bunch of electrical tape or duck tape around it and go back to work.



Merry Xmass
 
I've had the same issue. I just cut the cord down the 2" and reattached it, very simple 10 min job. I also tired and it seems to work, I wrapped some electrical tape on the cord at the spot where the sleeve would fit over. I then pulled the cord through the sleeve and this tighten up the area giving it more rigidity.



Merry Christmas,

GREG
 
mshu7 said:
^ +2



I replaced the cord on my Makita a few months ago. I bought a longer cord, and it the extra length definitely comes in handy.



By the way, changing out the cord was very easy!
Click to expand...



Care to elaborate on how? I have had the stocker replaced a few times now and would like to upgrade to avoid the annoyance of this problem.
 
I've wrapped electrical tape around my cord from the base of the handle for about 6-7 inches until it made the that part of the cord stiff. Now the bend in the cord is more gradual and no sharp kinks that could cause the wire to break inside the cord. I've also done this to my PC and Makita BO6040 to prevent this problem with those cords.



Upgrading the cord using a 15 or 20' industrial extension cord sounds like a great idea. I do not like the short cord that the 9227 comes with. So how easy was it to change out? Did you open up the handle part and solder the wires? Any spring loaded parts that come flying out to worry about?
 
David Fermani said:
Upgrade your cord by swapping it out to a larger, stiffer extension cord from Home Depot. That way it won't twist at the end of the rubber sleeve. And, you'll never need an extension cord again(built in). $30 is a rip off for something that costs under $10 and 10 minutes to upgrade. It's also a good idea to tape up the end of your head unit (silver metal part) in case you accidentally bump up against the vehicle.
Click to expand...





Thanks man I would have never have thought of that, Im going to let mine go a little longer till I do that but I am going to pad the metal parts...
 
some real good advice in here on buffer upkeep. hope that some of you experienced guys will be nice enough to elaborate a little further as well as post up some pics.
 
michakaveli said:
Not to hijack the thread, David, can you elaborate on this taping of the metal body?
Click to expand...



If you notice in the OP's picture above, there's times when buffing around mirrors or spoilers where the metal section of the buffer *could* make contact with the car. Bare metal has a tendancy of ripping off paint, but if you wrapped it in tape (even hockey tape/cushioned tape), it will pad the impact & not cause any damage. Make sense?



Also, you guys should be cleaning and rotating your brushes on a regulare basis too. And, if you use alot of wool pads, remove the side covers and blow out the internals with compressed air.
 
MartinD said:
Care to elaborate on how? I have had the stocker replaced a few times now and would like to upgrade to avoid the annoyance of this problem.
Click to expand...



As far as I can remember, there are two screws to remove on the handle. Take those out and then take off that piece (it's basically one half of the handle). Then, take the new cord you purchased and cut off the female end. Remove a couple inches of the rubber cover to expose the wires. Then you'll take those wires and attach them in the handle. Put the cover back on and you're ready to go.



It should take no more than 5 minutes to accomplish. Hope this helps!
 
mshu7 said:
As far as I can remember, there are two screws to remove on the handle. Take those out and then take off that piece (it's basically one half of the handle). Then, take the new cord you purchased and cut off the female end. Remove a couple inches of the rubber cover to expose the wires. Then you'll take those wires and attach them in the handle. Put the cover back on and you're ready to go.



It should take no more than 5 minutes to accomplish. Hope this helps!
Click to expand...



Thanks, will try it!
 
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